This is fascinating. However, I am obviously getting very old and very stupid. Could you please explain to an elderly moron just how that planform works?
It’ 2 a.m. in yhe UK now, so I can’t honestly say I’m waiting with baited breath, but I’m close to it.
I can’t give you a design calculation or anything like that. I don’t know if it will work well or like crap. I just wanted to give a little foil shape to a fairly thin plank. It’s probably more important to get the balance and alignment of the bulb right relative to the hull, and for me that’s just going to be my best guess too. I am going to try to make the keel removable if I can.
By the way, with this method of layering cut out shapes of ply you can get a fairly symetrical section even after the sanding and filling any left over stepping. The shape profile can be whatever suits your fancy.
the mood struck, so i cooked up these.
just a little set up guide, for when setting how she sits on the water.
here is a modified pic, showing roughly where the waterline is, and how it relates to the angle of the deck line. the bulb set either parallel with waterline, or slightly inclined upwards.
do not set the boat up, with the deck line parallel to the water.
do not set the keel / bulb in relation to the deck line either. set them to the waterline.
red=deckline
white=waterline
black=bulbline
Nigel…
The 3 new colored hulls you cooked up… Do they have the
carbon reinforcement imbeded in them or are they graphite
hulls ??? I really like the look of the dark gray one and the
translucent red is sharp as well…
Have any of your hulls had their sea trials yet ??? If so how
are they stacking up to the competition ??? They sure look
fast…
Keep-em-Floating…
Bruce… 
no need for the extra re-inforcement, these two hulls are stiff enough.
the extra carbon uni’s are used in the production glass fiber hulls.
the left one is made of arymid fiber (none ballistic kevlar), and the right one is made of carbon fiber. the natural colour of arymid is yella.
some of them have been afloat, but most are in the rigging stage.
my personal one is nearly ready (need a new sail servo).
gonna muck with it on the 22nd, in toronto. hope me concoction works well:lol:
They both look great, I wouldn’t want to paint those. I’m using the Spektrum DX6 radio in my boats and so far have not had to have any antenna wires sticking out of the hull (two wires for AR6000 rx). Doesn’t really matter what radio but the DX6 has nice short antennas.
Graphite will block the signal if the antennas don’t stick out (assuming the entire deck is graphite). Will kevlar block the radio signal?
Might have to stick one out anyways 'cause a Footy hull is so low.
Dave - Carbon Fiber blocks the r/c signal because it is conductive. The aramids, kevlar and spectra, do not interfere with the signals from your radio. You can keep your antenna inside a kevlar hull.
The DX6 was designed for park flyer airplanes, so range is supposed to be a concern. Have you found any problems with control at distance?
i also am running the dx6, yanked it out of my 400 heli.
signal loss was a concern to me as well, but it worked fine on a carbon framed / carbon fuselaged heli, and other carbon-laden creations.
have not tested it in this 100% carbon proto, but i do not expect the signal to fail here either. when done, the spectrum will go in it for testing as well.
Niel, I use the DX6 in a Victoria now and race in a club, several others in the club are going with it too and everybody’s liking it a lot. I have had rock solid control for as far a distance as I have sailed so far. The farthest I have gone I would guess may have been 250 - 300 feet or so, not that far but far enough. A good range test might be prudent if you have a large wide open body of water to run on. Thanks for the confirm on the aramids.
Nigel, I think one guy in our club has a cg hull with the DX6 but the deck is not cg - glass or something else. The radio may have worked fine in your open framed heli but in a completely enclosed cg hull I will be surprised if you get signal at all to the rx and even if you do, your range might be greatly diminished. So ya might want to do a range check first and if you test it on the water, be able to retrieve it. Let us know how it works.
Gotta do taxes now :rolleyes:
I will.
ya’ll are right about the “enclosed-ness” of the hull. it’d be totally surronded in carbon. might have to make an on-deck mount for the spektrum rec.
a “telemetry pod” if you will.
How about graphite hull and kevlar deck, same shape as you did mine. That might be raised enough that rx would get signal. Hey, the yellow on grey thing might look good too
ya, the black and yella do look good together. the carbon only looks grey cause of my cheap photographic equipement.
i was thinking about putting all kevlar(yellow)-built, internal structures in the carbon(black) hull, and all carbon internals, in the kevlar hull.
make for a real lah dee dah contrast.
looking good … it would be a kick to try one of with one of Brett’s rigs … weight envelope keeps getting tighter
I have made a few mods to “TAHI” to make her better I hope.
I have fitted a transom hung rudder a sheet lead on the nose and refitted the gear in a neater and removable manner.
This weekend has been a bit light in the wind department so I shall have to wait for the breeze to come back before testing and setting some times for the NZL Postal Classic.
the new rig looks impressive.
had mine out on sunday…what an awsome day.
here is some findings from the adventure.
in low wind, it tracked, but was hard to jibe or tack. rudder felt to small (felt like it couldn’t make the boat turn).
bill, and trevor mucked with my sails, and when more wind arrived, the lajabless started to work fine.
80mm rudder (naca65-10%-ish foil) worked great, as did the keel (same foil, 145mm long, 42mm wide then tapered down). +25mm with the 150gm bulb.
the boat is nimble, but not twitchy. jibes and tacks are easy, and i suck at them.
the boat accelerates quickly, and locks into place. a wee bit of weather helm, but the rig / sails need more adjustment. it looks good healed over. the rail resisted being buried (form-stability i guess).
downwind it seamed slower than some, but was easy to keep straight, and barely nose-dived compared to some other boats out there. some of them were “submarining”, although some had some really big rigs (30ish inches).
when the wind came, they were over-powered.
the lajabless was said to have some potential 
i was so happy with it, that me and a buddy went down to the lake at night.
sailed about and chased some ducks. :lol:
now the footy bug has bit him:devil3:
any hoo, i gotta get some work done (only so i can go to lake again)
cheers
I thought I would post this here rather than in the McRig thread but I may put something there as well.
Today I have finally achieved some of the results I have been working towards for the last two months.
I was honoured to be selected by Nigel as one of his test pilots for the “LAJABLESS” design which he makes so well.
My hull is #1 from the mould, hence the name “TAHI” NZ Maori word for “one.”
I had originally built a conventional swing rig for the boat and launched it with that set up. It sailed OK. It was too twitchy and I knew from my previous experience with FOOTYs and other classes that it could be made much better with a little fiddling.
I fitted a transom hung rudder and built a McCormack rig.
Much better, some more development with the rig and now I am at last a happy chappie.
In fact I am delighted with the performance and look forward to posting some times for the “Intergalactic Internet Course”
My mate Terry sailed the boat on his course today and set a time of 7.04 and I watched as he made a few errors which indicated to me that better times will be set when he and I have some more practice.
I did not record a time as so many others were sailing my boat that it was not possible but watch this space.
If dear reader you are considering purchasing a “LAJABLESS” hull from Nigel at Heron Composits then my advise is, just do it, his quality is outstanding and the design sails really well.
i’m really glad that the Lajabless works.
now i just have to learn to make it work. (7min. compared to my 30min.)
and that McCormack clan? wow…just over 1min. a lap.
Nigel, for a man who started off a few months ago to make an O60 modedl for his mantelpiece, you are to be congrtulated - and I really mean that. Well done to both you and Brett.