For those of you following the 1:10 thread some of this is old news, but I bought the materials for my building board tonight. A very nice 1/2"x12"x72" laminated fiberboard shelf, only $10 and should last me several builds. I also ran some calculation and figure my TP52 will end up in the 16.5 to 17.5 pound range, not to far off if you convert the TP52 box rul for the displacement. Actual displacement allowed by the rule is 16,500 lbs to 17,000 lbs. I am still awaiting my shadows and hopefully at the very latest they will arrive Friday and I can start planking away. Pretty soon the photos will be showing up and it will no longer be all talk.
My laser cut stations arrived today from WeLaserCut.com, they look good. Here are a few pics of the bow section, widest midship section and the stern section, the Coke can was added for a little size perception. Should have them mounted on the board tomorrow and start planking her up. Comments welcome.
wow, thats big. i like it!
SO The boat is 90% planked, waiting for everything to dry before I put the few finsihing planks in and then I will attack it with expanding foam and some west system filler before I fiber glass it. Here are two pics from the confines of my porch so the angles aren’t great, but you get the idea. That is a standard ruller laying on top for some perspective although that is probably thrown off by the paralax anyway.
Crikey Millrtme, when did you start planking??
It seamed like only a couple of days ago you were showing us the Stations. Good work.
Btw, is that the 1/10 boat or the 1/12??
This boat is 1:12. The planking didn’t need to be pretty or even watertight for that matter due to the fact that I will be fairing it with West System and using it as a plug for a mold rather than a sailing hull so I just made sure station was covered with gaps less than 1/8". I will fill them in and start sanding tonight, then I will remove it from the boad, fill the space in between station with expanding foam. Once the foam has “cured” I will shave it down and plank the deck, should result in a super solid plug.
My thoughts as well !
I have been carrying around the copies of cross sections for several days now, but it seems on warm(er) days, there is always something else to do, and on colder days I have no interest in standing on a cold concrete floor in an unheated garage. Brrr !
I guess I’d better put aside a few non-essential projects and get to mine, or summer will be here and nothing to show for it.
Well done on the build, and now I understand your earlier post. All I could think was - “Why is he filling a perfectly good hull with foam - only to have to melt it out later?” Now I know.
Care to share the cost of having the shadows laser cut (if I’m not being too personal) ? I know I’ll have more/bigger, but it would give me an idea of time versus cost.
:sly:
Dick,
Because this would ultimately be my plug I used 22 stations and the total with shipping from Toronto was somewhere in the $85 neighborhood with 1/8" ply, if I were to do it again I would do one of two things, use a thicker material or have each one cut twice and glue them together to make them a little stiffer, I found these to be just a little too soft and it def. added some work.
Thanks - appreciate the suggestion/comment regarding size of stations. Since I will have my shadows supported on each side with foam, I think I can get away with some standard hardboard (untempered). It cuts and sands eaily, is inexpensive, and will be pretty light in weight. If I only used shadows for strip build, I can see where 1/4 or so would be stiffer. Right now the plan will continue as originally thought, and I can probably do a decent job on the shadows - first cutting with bandsaw to general outline, and then using sanding disk on table saw to bring down to exact outline. I have a bunch of foam that was originally intended for a 2 meter multi, but with more guys interested this looks to be a fun class to allow some “modeling” instead of simply just building !
Always time for a bigger multi later - and probably do that one at 1/10 scale as well.
As HcW has noted, once a few of these get on the water, it may well generate additional interest. It will be an undertaking, but some who are considering don’t get it that at larger scale, building can actually be easier. No supertight bends or radius. Also weight isn’t that critical for a hull, so no need to go the “carbon” route. Although the travel issue is a consideration.
Thanks again
I absolutely can’t wait to get it off the board and get the deck planked because that is what will send it over the edge in terms of scale look. Good luck with your builds.
Both models have floated to their lines with 11-12lbs ballast. I noticed that the bulb had to be move aft to a point where the start of the bulb tip is at the leading edge of the keel(as per design). Question: will this work? Should I be slanting the keel aft to get the bulb in the middle? Perhaps I may be off on this but is the DWL assuming crew weight? Any help is greatly appreciated!Thank you. DD
From everything I have read, crew weight (1273 -1278 kg) account for somewhere in the neighborhood of 17% of the boat weight (7484 - 7711 kg). So that to me is a huge chunk of the weight that has the ability to be placed anywhere on the boat it is needed. Now depending on the cockpit layout I would think it would be fairly evenly distributed weight (bow to stern) from the midship back (minus the bow man). So you might want to play around with keel placement or angle of the keel to get the bulb in the middle of the keel. I Know my boat is extremely full in the bow and I don’t see any issues with bouyancy (unless I run a big assym. spinn.), so I would think that as long as it floats on it’s lines it doesn’t make a huge difference how your bulb and keel are arranged. Keeping in mind I am not a designer as much as I am a builder, just my $.02.
Anyone know about why a keel cannot be slanted back,or why Michael Fayes KZ-1 had a swept back bulb keel? Why not straight down where the bulb is?The placement of keel causes leeward/windward helm correct? Thanks in advance Derusha
Derusha,
Swept back keels are for the most part Olde Worlde thinking, we are talking IOR - IMS days. Todays thinking is more toward plumbed keels to reduce drag, and increase the boats agility.
For the most part swept back ‘L’ shaped keels used to twist slightly giving the prospect of a slight suck to windward, the drawback however is the drag that was caused, which offset most if not all of the gain, hence designers opting to design their boats with the keel a little further aft and the bulb “Balanced” on the end of the keel.
I’ve attached and aerial Photo of a T980 (32 footer) where you can clearly see what I’m talking about.
Cheers,
HcW…
Well I am about 90% completed with the planking process. I should have it done by the weekend, which will only open the door to alot of sanding and then application of the blue West System epoxy filler. The deckhouse is proving to be the hardest section. I had to cover it with 1/16" balsa then do another layer, rather than just 1/8" all the way. The compund curve between sides of the deckhouse and the top are giving the most problems. Here are some pics. I think once sanded the shape should turn out pretty true.
that thing is a beast!
for my first planking project it has really turned out nicely, along with the experimentation of the expanding foam. As long as the deckhouse turns out OK it will be a sweet boat.
Want to “play” in the 1/10 scale class but don’t want hassle/costs of a scaled down “monster” like a TP-52, VOR 60 or 70, ORCA 60 ? Well then friends, we have a deal for you for little - if any - money down.
Remember, the class is 1/10 of a “real boat” and while this one isn’t yet on the water, the basic info and lines could make for one really nice r/c 1/10 Class BUT in a size that can be handled, moved and stored much easier than the maxi-boats.
With acknowledgments to “Sailing Anarchy” web site, the following design for a 35 footer translates down to a respectable, but easy-to-manage 42 inch (1.066 meter) scale boat. With scale deck hardware available, no limits on radios, channels or gear, it might be a fascinating build for someone. While we love to think about the maxi-boats (real or R/C) we seldom have the finances to afford a true program. Here is a smaller yet modern version to consider. While it may be “nice” to have the underwater lines, in reality, any mono-hull design with plumb bow “could” fake it!
Go for it !
http://www.sailinganarchy.com/fringe/2007/Water_Sport_35.pdf
Just a “bump” of the topic with a few photos to renew creative “juices”
In the photo of PRB, be sure to take note of the roller-furling jib and associated hardware. Is it really 1/10 scale - or is it the real boat? 
Looks like the Furler the real deal Dick, check out the furling lines??
Now there’s some possibilities mate.