With a wedding coming up and some new projects at work haven’t had a whole lot of time to work on the boat, but should be able to get some in this weekend which would mean getting the rest of the bow carved and faired so it will look like a whole boat. Then it’s time ti layer on the fairing compound and back to sanding. A quick question:
What would seem to be a better sequence of construction?
Get the hull sanded down as much as possible, fair, then wrap it in fiberglass.
Get the hull sanded, wrap it in fiberglass, then hit it with the fairing compound.
do as much fairing first as you can! i made the mistake of thinkning i could just fair everyhting once i had wrapped my 50" long, AC boat… the thing is still sitting in my garage, and it has been for 6 years… i’m still fairing it… [although that says more about the amount of time i have had to spend on it] but really, save yourself the heartache, and fair first, then fair after the glassing, then fair after fairing, then fair somemore! lol. :rolleyes:
good luck! you have a good looking boat there.
:zbeer:
Much easier sanding balsa and filler when “raw” than when it has been hardened and had a coat of armour added (epoxy/glass)
I often got too impatient to see the hull in primer, and then found myself at odds with the time needed to go back and do the basics. About twice like that and you learn. You have put a lot of time already into that beautiful, long hull - keep working toward a smooth hull before glassing - rewards will appear at end of project.
Well…
I am now a happily married man, and since the wedding is over I plan on having a lot of free time not realized in the past months. I am going to start up the final stages of the plug building for my TP52 as well finalize the details for my USOM. Updates will hopefully be aplenty and I hope to have a plug in the next month to a month and a half, as well as my first scratch built sailing machine (USOM).
The other thing about a lot of fairing is to draw the thing properly in the first place and then loft (or equivalent) it accurately. As I am beginning to discover, the number of model yacht lines plansthat are not remotelt fair is astonishing. With something done as a hobby (i.e. no price pressure on labour) in an age of cheap or free CAD, this israther depressing.
you dreamer you ! After 40 years of experience, once married we men never seem to have “any” free time - let alone enough.
Actually, I do get time, as when I’m busy with other things, I’m not upsetting or bothering the better half ! Congrats on your marriage, may you both have a long and healthy life together.
Well I have started the long arduous fairing process. Using West System 105/206 Epoxy resin and adding 410 Mircolight filler it is coming along. I found the trick is to make it slightly thinner than you would think would work best. Should start sanding monday night and have some pics to post up.
I spread the micro-light from a heavy powder to resin ratio…sand in a X pattern than straight (first with 50 grit). Yes it does work much better when the hull lines are faired correctly. Did the FT10meter in 1 1/2 hours(see models in progress “F”). P.S. Congats on the “New-life”
Well the fairing process is proving to be a long one. The hull itself is just tedious, while the deck is downright challenging. I have had to make several sanding tools to help me get the correctjoints at certain parts of the deck, but it is coming along well. I think today I layed down my last layer of fairing compound on the hull and once sanded will be able to put a final coat of unthickened epoxy on it. The deck is on hold until the hull is finished. All and all, I am so far very impressed, the line (to the naked eye) seem to be quite congruent from port to starboard, which is all I really want.
Attached are some photos of the progress along with (2) of an Open 60 (I think) that calls Annapolis Home. I don’t have a guess at which one it might be, but I’m sure some gurus here will def. venture them, Enjoy.
What’s going on
Hey I am brand new but also building a TP52 But been in the military and living in an aparment in Germany, my tools are kind of limited so is going to take me a little more time.But later i’ll send you some pictures of the progress as soon as i put them in my comp. :xmas:
Mt TP52 is completely planked, deck and hull, filled with expanding foam, sanded and faired and 1/2 way covered in a light layer of glass, which will be sanded and fair once more, then it should be good to build a hull off of the male mold or build a female mold off of. Once I get back into the fairing stages I will post some more pics.
For xmas I got a rig kit for my USOM so that will be stealing some TP52 time.
Well here are some updated pics of my TP52 plug. It is covered completely in epoxy and ready for the final stages of fairing. It still looks a little odd to me in places but I am hoping it is an illusion caused by the contrast of the fairing compound and the balsa planks. Anyway here are the 4 views. Please feel free to comment.
Looks great. I might build one after my IOM. either a 1/10 TP52 or a 1/12 AC boat (AMYA class).
Anywho, I was down in Bristol, RI last Thursday and went by Goetz boats and they had a TP52 plug outside. any thoughts as to why the section of the bow is cut out?
Hard to tell from the pictures but if it was the knuckle and the extreme forward section of the bow they tend to fill them in with some sort of foam to create a sort of crash box to help keep the hull watertight in the case of a grounding or crossing collision. So even though the hull will be damaged the hopes are that the foam takes the hit and the cored hull stays in one piece.
Your in the “check” stage. Give’r a primer coat to check your work so far. It will make a consistent hull finish, that is reflects little light (matt finish).
Then you can see what you have left to do as fairing goes. :zbeer:
Eschwarm:
It’s a collision-zone in the process of being foam-filled. Either a new unfinished build, or a repair to the collision-zone, after it did it’s job.
Not quite there, I can still feel some profiling with my bare hand, but it is getting there. My issue arose when I had some spots where the epoxy didn’t saturate the light glass I laid down so i had to go back and re-wet it which left some runs because I was impatient.
