Start sanding !
After one hour !! The surface remains homogeneously wet.
Looking to the bottom side, probably I will not go any further, instead, the residual hollows (few microns) will be filled with fine polyester mastic.
This picture is a close-up - macro photo showing various grade of surface. Where the wood is apparent, there is no need to continue, the deep black hollows areas will be filled up with finishing polyester filler.
I need some rest before continue with the other sides.
Cd
Great forum…I was originally going to try to get my hands on some BMW Oracle decals for my hull but after seeing the South African hull logo, thats the one I really love. How would i go about scanning it for a 1 meter decal. The gentlemen that produced that one displayed on the TD Model website is gorgeous. Thanks
Chris
Chris
This is what I drew in 2007, if may be of any help !
Some pics for better view on the real hull
Claudio
Hull wet sanding and hollows filling completed.
White paint coat as finishing surface. Once fully dried will be wet sanding with high grade paper from 240 up to 600.
If necessary the paint coating will be repeated in order to mask the minicraters/voids caused by the fiberglass/epoxy coats.
Claudio
thanks Claudio…thats perfect.
Chris
Anytimes Chris
Cd
Hello guys
Here some pics of my scratch build SUI100 that i built in my aparment in Germany. She sail only 1 time, now I moved to Texas and I have to modify the keel since is too little and the boat drift a little bit. I’ll post pictures of the whole process, enjoy.
Hi Deddie
I’m pleased to see the pics of an Alinghi SUI100.
From the pictures it seems that the fin appears to be short and rather narrow.
Would be possible to get the dimensions of the hull and fin/bulb ?
Thanks
Claudio
After a light coat of black paint (tracer function), I started fine sanding with 320 grade
The surface is actually very smooth for a male moulding. To consider that this surface will be representing the inner face of the laminated hull.
For a female mould I would, eventually, used finer sanding paper up to 800/1200 grade.
I will proceed now to the next operation that will consist in the application of 5 to 6 layers of wax .
Soft polishing after each dried wax layer, of course.
Claudio
Hello Claudio -
I have been watching your build with admiration. Nice job!
I have a question -
If this hull is to be a “male mold” why the effort to get so smooth if it will be the inside hull surface - unless yoi may use it later for the creation of a female mold?
When I do “one-off” hulls - I usually get my shape, then cover with strips of wide plastic packaging tape. There is a very small line where the tape overlaps the previous piece, but only a very light coat (and only one) of wax will allow the glass hull to be removed with little fuss. I will leave the glass hull on the mold (plug) until the other surface has been filled, sanded and primed - before removing, but the inside of that glass hull will still show the tape thickness at overlaps but this is of little concern since it is inside.
If you really build your hulls on a male mold, it seems you are spending lots of time sanding only to have to repeat it on the outside of the glass hull.
As I said - if you plan to use the plug as both a male mold and also to create a female mold - I understand.
Regards, Dick
attached is a photo of one of my F-48 trimaran foam half-hull “plugs” on the left, and on the right is the other half that has been covered with tape for glass release. Once glass is laid up, it is filled, sanded and primed and then it is removed from the foam. There isn’t enough interest to justify making a female mold - so I just build them as one-off hulls.
Hi Dick,
exactly as you wrote : "…unless you may use it later for the creation of a female mold? "
In fact actually, being an experimental design, I’m not sure that this model would be as good to justify some replicas.
The tecnique of using packing scotch, I used once on a Class M. I did’nt used this time to avoid later work for removal.
If the model will be good, then, it is not escluded to finish the surface with higher wet paper grade as said on the previous post.
My Italian friends have already asked me to reduce the overall lenght to 120cm therefore making a model shorter of 10cm about, compared to the one I’m making.
The preliminary drawings are ready, but I will finalise them after a meeting with a Naval Architect on the Prismatic Coeficient of this type of Hulls. (Iron shape). So far I knows the Open60 have a PC in the order of 0.56/0.57, but I got some difficulties to stay below 0.60 and maintains a wide stern at water level as for a sort of AC33 hull.
Ciao
Claudio
preparing for master Hull lamination
Prior to lamination, from that pics, it will be probably not easy to coat the tissu ! The fabric is just laying on the master.
In sequence : first layer 162g/m² glass (inner layer) - second the cotton tissu of 112g/m² - 3rd and 4th (outer layers) 80g/m² glass
Claudio
Today is the lamination day !
The first layer of 105g/m² glass is already laminated, followed by the cotton fabric lamination as seen in the picture :
polyane film* to cover the lamination egalizing with hand pressure the surface
the complete hull
after about 1hour30min., the film is gently removed in order to start the new glass lamination
The lamination will be completed with 2 layers of 50g/m² glass
Here the 1st layer to be impregnated :
details of lamination
During impregnation, it is important to exert radial brush movements from the central zone of the hull toward the ends. This method is usefull to laydown the tissus and avoid creasing and wrinkles effects .
The second layer is also laminated.
Waiting for polymerisation
Claudio
Comments with the pictures :
This morning 22 hours later :
The lamination appears to be very strong, suggesting lighter glass sampling.
Playing transparencies ! The experiment is very interesting, no need to adds painting or decoration. Unfortunately what seen here will not be completely visible once the boat will in the water unless in tilted conditions !
Claudio
Weight measurement and weight predictions
I went rechecking the cotton cloth weight and found to be 120g/m² instead of 112g/m² as previously condidered.
Claudio
I believe that is necessary to says little more about my experiment the use of cotton fabric.
This type of high quality cotton is in principle designed for patchworks and quilting.
Specialised decorators works to introduce continuosly new ornamental design.
Just some examples:
http://www.bestofquilting.fr/tissus.htm
http://www.patchwork-outlet.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26
http://www.kaffefassett.com/
Why Cotton ?
1st Cosmetic
2nd Technical, since partecipating to the assembly strenght, althought is not so strong as glass.
3rd Economical since it cost 18.50€/m² or 24$
My body car painter generally ask me some 65€ or 86$ for a single color, thus more expensive.
The paint does not partecipate to strenght like the cotton and suffer from accidental scratches, while the cotton is protected by the glass layers that can be easily re polished.
Claudio
the same process is repeated again, this time with white paint for contrast as tracer :
Starting with soft sanding 360 grade wet paper :
Unfortunately I do not possess a vacuum system or cleaner for this purpose and do a better job and reduce the amount of bumps & hollows.
Claudio
Compliments Claudio, great job! I like a lot your cotton layer idea.
Regards
Matthias
Thank you very much Matthias.
Continuing sanding after having added some lubricant to my elbows
after sanding and under dry conditions, it is not very nice to look ! No problems, see next !
wet conditions, it is only water but giving already an idea of what could be after one layer of transparent polyurethane paint!
Claudio