14 years later is still possible to make an IACC 120 !
The original design has been adapted to the IACC 120 Rules.
For those who like the famous Mermaid of Roy Lichtenstein, this is the moment !
Ciao to everybody
Claudio
some files for IACC 120 Plans for ALINGHI and China Team
Claudio
The Plans for ETNZ and Young America as well for Appendages ana tipical used Servo’s Set-up
Claudio
It is on line here (click on the left side menu "IACC 120 Projects):
http://iacc120cup.altervista.org/Main0E.html
the new fantastic Prada Luna Rossa ITA-94 IACC 120 project, made by Claudio Diolaiti.
Claudio made three different solutions: A, B and C (different LWL, beam etc.), allowing the best choice for the modellist.
A great thank you to Claudio for his work!!!
Regards
Matthias
The China Team drawing has been revised in order to accomodate a narrover Beam and a new Fin/bulb.
Claudio
Inside the site: http://iacc120cup.altervista.org/
under the dedicated Forum IACC English language, a new discussion has been open and related to new America Cup formula : Hull Design & Developements > IACC33 Study .
Based upon an image seen on the Press and on the new AC33 Rules, I decided to develops a new RC Model, using the few availables data of the future AC33 boats.
Obviously I’m running the risks to be far from the real developements, nevertheless is worthy a trial, at least I will have constructed a new model with a very shallow Hull.
Just an idea of what could look like the new AC33 :
This model will be scaled down to 1:20 as for the AC32 actually under the IACC120 class ; this is an artistic view of my future RC Model :
Claudio
Claudio, Thanks for this thread and all the great info you are sharing. :zbeer:
Hope to build one of these this year, but am also thinking about a larger scale version too.
Hi Greg -
Do a search on 1:10 scale. Very impressive size and good thread. A lot of guys talked about it, but not much building going on - or else it’s super-secret. Friend in Michigan makes a lot of the scale parts if you want a “stand-off” scale versus strictly a racer (sans deck hardware, etc.)
Good to have you back
Dick
This is my first model of AC33 or something like that ! under construction
Ready for internal epoxy coating before start sanding outside.
cheers
Claudio
Hi Greg ,
a Canadian is building at the moment an Alinghi SUI100 of 150cm LOA. I drew it for him.
Ciao
Claudio
Just great!!
Congratulations
hey matthias,
This is John out in the USA with the one meter oracle boat and now it’s time to step up and I’m thinking 2meter. I’m trying decide witch hull and after seeing your video here of the Prada Luna Rossa ITA-94 i’m leaning twords that. I sent Claudio an email hoping to get some files in autocab format to plot my scale prints. I dont have a URL to load my pictures of the Oracle so
I will email them to you later.
Great work you guys are doing keep it up :zbeer:
Hi Claudio -
Based on the photos of the hull layup, can you tell me the wood you are using? In several of the closeup photos, the grain of the wood looks like pine or similar harder soft wood as compared to balsa which usually doesn’t have that grain pattern.
Thank you.
Dick
John,
I sent you yesterday the file of frames in DXF as converted from Coredraw.
Today I got an error message; via Comcast, telling that my message was not delivered and treated as a ‘spam’.
Let me know via E-mail
Claudio
Dick
good eyes, in fact is pine.
Why ?
Very simple, I was running short with samba and the pine was the only wood available at home.
It is very hard to sand it, I even used an electrical grinder ! Good lesson learned.
Regards
Claudio
Master coated with 100g/m² glass /epoxy - here with peel -off ribbons
Black painted as a “tracer” for bumps and hollows - defects caused by superposition of glass sheets are visibles. I had used small sample for this work instead of using a large single sheet.
LESSON LEARNED !!!
NEVER PUT EPOXY RESIN ONTO A POLYESTER FILLER .
This morning I was preparing for water paper sanding when I observed a small bubble.
Opened with a cutter just for local repair… The skin was lifting showing no adherence.
To be short, I was obliged to remove all the glass fiber .
I’m sure that the polyester filler was not 100% dry this because the hull was left outside during the day (cause smell) where the temperature was around 15/17°C. I assume that 48 hours were not sufficient to dry off the filler under these conditions.
Manufacturer suggest minimum temperature of 15°C.
The filler appears some what soften.
Here the results:
Cd
The hull is returned to the previous state ready for the first coat with glass-epoxy and then repairing small defects with polyester filler and applying black paint as tracer.
Cd
I continue to describe my work hoping will be of some interest , let me knows if this is disturbing.
After heavy sanding, I started today the lamination directly on wood and not as before on the polyester filler. “Something to Remember”
Two layers of glas-epoxy are applied , the first of 162g/m² and the second of 105g/m²
Started the impregnation on the top and longitudinally and gradually espanding to the sides. In order to avoid slippages of the fabric, I have impregnated vertically just to “fix” it and avoiding carefully crinkles.
The tecnique I use is to push gently with the brush, while impregnating the glass, with diagonal movements toward both directions to the extremes of the body hull.
Tomorrow I will start finishing the surface , first applying a black paint as “tracer” and then with wet sandpaper.
Cd
Claudio, your design work and descriptions along with the photos are excellent, please continue, it is helping others learn and to get involved. There is more to this sport than just buying a boat and sailing it . Building your own and sailing them is where the big reward starts. I am sure there are plenty of others who share my view of your efforts
Thank you Simbad I appreciate.
The “recital” of this discussion is just dedicated to the ones that would like to start building and to shows them that it is rather easy to do.
Here the picture of this morning. The Hull is black painted with a simple spray.
The back light shows better the irregularities of surface.
The wetpaper sanding should eliminate all for a uniform surface. If necessary the hull will be black painted again to confirm the surface status.
The Close-up shows better the amount of work to be done. Pratically the bumps are in the order of a couple tens of millimiter no more. Tomorrow I will start using my elbow, once again…
