Very promising New Class the AC120 in Italie and in France since few weeks.
Site of interest is :


and under preparation in France :



What is the purpose of the AC 120 class? Match racing, or fleet racing?

Can you give some dimension and displacements?


that looks great… you should be proud… i love the americas cup type of boat… i would love to see more…and hear more about the boats. how do they sail? how much for oracle? sorry but i like that boat…

congrats… cant wait to hear more about them
:zbeer: bravo


Hi all
The IACC 120 is supposed to replicate ‘almost’* to scale 1:20 the America Cup boats.
The overall lenght is 1200 mm, the water lenght is no more than 1000 mm, the Sail Area is 80dm² maximum, it should be weighting 4500g minimum and the Fin+Bulb shall not be above 3000g (66%), the draft from the hull bottom is 420mm.
The Main Luff is 1750 max .
Total freedom for construction materials not above lead density.

For what can be noticed so far is faster as the M Class boats.

Boat races are run , fleet and match race.
Pratically in the championship most of the race are fleet and the first two in the standing are racing against each other, in Match racing. More or less as the real AC .

For more, you can unload the IACC120Cup “Class Rules” from the site mentioned above. In this site there are several picture and video you can watch.

  • Why “almost” ? The scale concerning the displacement is not to scale 1:20.
    The respect of the real scale 1:20, would have imposed a total displacement of 3000g.
    Of boat of this lenght could not be in practice manufactured and equipped, therefore to allows also the less experts in construction, we decided to allocate a minimum weight of 4500g.
    The experts that coul manufacture this boat for i.e. 4200g for instance, they will be democratically obliged to carry additional ballast inside the hull for 300g minimum in order to reach the minimum of 4500g.

The plans, non restrictions so far it can be compared with the lock of a real AC Boat, like Oracle, Alinghi, Desafio, ChinaTeam , Shosholoza, etc.

Tha’s all !

thanks for the information.

Ten of the AC Teams are currently racing in Auckland, New Zealand until Feb 14.
It is pure match racing with ‘identical’ boats.
A ‘friendly’ whilst the lawyers continue to work on the main attraction.

You can listen to live commentary here:

The event is live streamed, to NZ only, using Virtual Eye (no cameras - only computer graphics), another Dunedin invention.

Just to stimulate more interest here a sample drawing for the Alinghi SUI 100

Another drawing showing a possible deck and servos arrangement.

sorry for the Italian titles.


that is awesome … but right now… i realy dont like you…
i got to finish my marblehead. before i start the next project… but i would love to build this… anybody else here interested?
i would love to drive oracle…
claudio. how did you get the decals? i need oracle? please
after all. " she who must be"obeyed " has the final say

I’d love to build one of these.
although, i have to finish my IOM first that has been in the works for a while, i’ve been so busy its been hard to find time.

but one of these is definitely next on my list.

Cougar - you can purchas 8.5 x 11 sheets of “water-slide” decal paper from a variety of web site. Comes in two types and two “kinds”.

“TYPE:” Laser printing or ink-jet printing
Clear -decal with clear, see-thru in open areas and backgrounds - good for light surfaces and or dark lettering.
White - decal paper that provides for “white” lettering or objects on a white background. Good for dark backgrounds and white lettering, but you may have to carefully trim around lettering if a white outline/backgroun isn’t wanted.

Fairly inexpensive but requires a minimum order - I usually buy both types for color laser printing.


  1. Scan your color logo into PC
  2. Paste the graphic image into your favorite WORD or graphics document. Add as many logos etc. as possible so you don’t waste the sheet of paper.
  3. Place decal sheet into printer
  4. Print graphics.
  5. Cut out individual images. Cut close as possible if you don’t want an outline.
  6. place in tepid/warm water for a few seconds. Paper will roll up.
  7. Remove from water and begin to slide the decal off the paper
  8. Slide the graphic into place on boat/sail/stand. mast/etc.
  9. GENTLY pat dry with soft towel or paper tissue
  10. Allow to dry
  11. Spray with clear finish (matte or gloss) which will help keep water from re-wetting.

If you have really big decals - use a few drops of soap in water, and wet area where decal will reside. Apply decal as above, but soap will let you slide it around a bit to locate. Pat dry and work from center out to remove soap/water so it adheres to the surface. Seal with clear finish as above.

It might be possible to purchase single sheets from your local hobby shop but they will get premium price. Nice in a way if don’t have use for 20 sheets or so of decal paper.

Basically the same process you used as a kid to add decals to you plastic models.

For boat logos above, you would want paper with white background. Print with red, a trim carefully leaving white line around graphic. Will also need white for Alinghi name - but will print black background leaving white letters.

I have added a photo of grandson’s RG-65 before deck was installed. The circle #19 and “Team Lemke” are both white background water-slide decal paper. On deck near bow is another huge white circle with #19 - and behind hatch cover is his name and home town in script. Also clear spray protected.

thanks dick…
that was a great step idea… i never thought you could do the decals off the printer… but then i started to think… they had to be done someway… and this is my guess is how they did it…
1 question? when you have the decal in place and dried… you say to spray a clear coat to seal it…
what type of clear coat? wont it eat the decal sheet?

on the seawind model… you dont seal it. you just soak and apply.
what type of clear coat do you use?

For large production runs, they probably use off-set printing or screen printing. Copier printing would be too slow and costly for long runs.

I have used Krylon Clear Glaze and I spray several REALLY light/thin coats. I have also been successful in coating with a clear, gloss water-based polyurethane. It goes on and looks miky-white. Dries clear. For my woodworking, it’s the only thing I found that is easy to use, but doesn’t turn wood a yellow/gold color like most varnish and oil based polyurethanes. Of course it doesn’t have UV protection, but unlike a big boat, our little ones are only on the water short (comparatively) periods of time.

You can always take a small (non-printed) piece after printing decals - maybe from a corner or scrap area, and affix it to a plastic pop/water bottle and try the spray there first. Will let you experiment, let dry overnight/24 hours, and immerse in sink, and you can fool to see how easy/hard it is to peel off. Unless you miss a spot with clear, you may find only scratching it will remove it.

Here is where I get mine (Miami Florida) but they won’t ship outside of U.S. - if anyone near you on US side, you could ship there. I think I’m too far west to make it economical for you - but try a local hobby shop, a Michaels chain art store if they are in Canada. I’ve got relatives in Detroit, but it may be a bit of a drive. Finally, if you really want to, it could drop ship to me, and I can mail afew sheets at a time so I don’t have to declare any imports. Somehow I have to think the stuff is available to you crazy Canadians - after all we can get your Molsons and Labatts over here !


email me if you want to try any ideas. You have my home email address.

Similarly as above, the tecnique is used in Italy by TD Model and is already offering self adhesive graphic decorations for the following models :

Mascalzone Latino: 30€
BMW Oracle Racing: 25€
Dragone China Team: 25€
Kit Luna Rossa per scafo e vele: 35€

The graphic are laser cut on a tiny self adhesive film.

There is another tecnique widely used by the aeromodelers : the AirBrush and masking tape. Obviously a graphic PC tool is also necessary to draw and print the decorations unless is included with the plans.
At this adress, for instance, it is possible to find more about aerography ans airbrush works : http://airbrushmodelairplanes.com/
The airbrush uses acrilic paints, therefore there is no need to protect the paint as for the adesive graphic that uses ink :

Here some samples of AC Hull decorations that may requires both tecniques :

Obviously the Dragon of China Team could be made with airbrush while for Shosholoza and RedBull , the printing will offer better results.

ORACLE decorations for those who are interested, include hull , deck , boom and sails :


ok . now you have done it… i am in soo much trouble now… she who must be obeyed. is going to kill me…

i love those decals. and now just have to figure out.

  1. how to get my hand on the decal material…
  2. how to paint my hull. I got nzl -60 already in my shop…
  3. how to make everything… dicks step by step is going to come in handy

so i put the pdf file into paint? then expand it to size?
i know somebody in my area that is working on etnz… and that would be a tougher paint… but i dont care… i like oracle
cris dickson … all the way. and now russel coutts?

thanks for the image… i will keep you posted

I walked past the Bases at The Viaduct in Auckland today on the way to buy some fish. The hottest day we have ever seen so needed the walk to get out side for a bit. Saw a massive mast taking up the entire length of Southern Spars shed - must have been close to a metre deep.
A few of the past Cup boats parked in various old sheds in the area. Some are rented out for tourist trips on the harbour - NZ$150 for three hours seems a good deal.
The two Oracle and two Emerites NZ yachts are on display on the hard outside their bases with the completion of the Challenger series. Alinghi won the right to race NZ over seven races in the next few days. Still not a popular syndicate with their refusal to race NZ on one day in case they collided and lost a point. Today they protested that one of the NZ boats is better than the other, but won the right to use that boat in a draw anyway. No one else cares.

Hi Cougar,
your nick remember me my old XR7 - it was a fabulous car that I keept for 9 years until I found out that the Toulouse city roads were to narrow !!!

The ORACLE hull is easy painted with spray gun in a body car painter, The white colour is just a local top spray . You may do it yourself with acrylic colour spray cans.
The names and logos should not presents particular problems, Decals are printables with jet ink printer in a dedicate special decal suports, and then protected from water with stransparent spray paint. The dry ink does not suffering from sprayed paint.
For the name and logo I’ll see what I can do…

I searched in my fonts files and I din’t found any that could be used, therefore I retrace all one by one and here are the results in jpeg for those who are interested about ORACLE-BMW Team


thank you…
i wil send you pictures in the summer. i got a marblehead almost done right now… and i will finish the iacc120 this summer. with a complete paint job

hehehe this is going to be fun:zbeer:

thanks again Claudio

i really want to build an alinghi model.
i’ll have plenty of time this summer because im taking the summer off from small boat sailing, so i’ll have plenty of time to build one.

bmw oracle looks really tempting too, i might have to make a mold and build a few.