ETNZ IACC120 Dual build thread

Other America's Cup Boats
141

Great work and fast K1 !! Happy for you
Cheers
Claudio

142

Really nice work Alan, let the sanding begin.

Pva release agent will work fine for your hull release, the latex idea is a good one though…would make for a nice exterior finish.

Gary

143

Hey guys…

Jeez K1… your vacation is one day old and you’re finished the mold!!

Ha… looks good mate.

I too have had a good couple of days on it and have it ‘glass ready’ as of today (Sunday).

I will head off and see if I can get some glass in the city tomorrow… suggestions please… what weight, second choice?
Claudio used 1x105g/m2 then two layers of 50g/m2 on his IACC33 build, is this mold the same conditions?

Pic1: Planking finished

Pic2: First couple of hours and one fill.

Pic3: Last hour and second fill.

Cheers

Goose

144

Hi Goose,you made it like a PRO.It took me much more time to make my mold,It was the first time i was doing such work,and i didn’t have any help or tricks.Go on with your nice work Gilles

145

Hi Gilles…

Thanks a lot, appreciate it.

There are plenty of mistakes, cursing and bad voodoo hidden in those pictures :smiley:

The end justifies the means, as they say.

Cheers

Goose

146

Hi Guys!
just spent an hour reading the whole thread and joined the forum. Great looking boats! Brilliant work Claudio making such beautiful drawings available and supplying detailed info on building. I’ve downloaded everything :smiley: from Claudio’s site.
I’ve spent last few weeks searching for my next scratch build and I guess I’ve found it. The YAM drawings look, to me, like a really sleek design. And at 1.2m LOA a great size for easy transport and fun sailing.

Below is a link to my build log for my A Class boat - 1.7m LOA -
http://photobucket.com/AU_Class_Build_Pics
Below is a pic of the boat on the water (the boat on the left).

Here’s a pic of the boat sailing. Nowhere near as sexy as the boats you guys are building but… maybe with your inspiration :).

Larry L.

147

Hi Goose,
congratulations !
About the cloths you wrote : “Claudio used 1x105g/m2 then two layers of 50g/m2 on his IACC33 build, is this mold the same conditions?”
You forgot the coloured cotton fabric of 114g/m²

As I already said in the past, generally for boats of this size I use a weight between 6g/dm² and 7g/dm² ALL-IN , that’s means cloths and resin.

For various reasons, I prefers to use cloths below 100g/m². These are my ratios: the epoxy resin is 50% of the total weight with Glass, 55% with Carbon and 60% with Kevlar.

I almost totally abbandoned the Carbon, too expensive and the actual IACC120 Rules do not requires fighting for gramms.

Having said that, I suggest for the model hull, 4 layers of Glass of 80g/m² or 0.80g/dm²

The result will be : 4 x 0,80 = 3,2g/dm² Glass + 3,2 g/dm² Epoxy = 6.4g/dm² (just as said above)

Assuming the hull surface of ~38dm², the expected weight will 6.4g/dm² x 38dm² = 243g

Cheers

Claudio

148

Hi Larrykin,

I went looking to your work and I have appreciated a lot, in particular the use of jib boom hinge.
Will be interesting , without going OT, to see what sort of structure reinforcements you used to ensure stifness to the hinge pivot and avoid lifting of the boom when running or reaching.

What sort of cloth you use for the Sails ?

Thanks
Cheers
Claudio

149

Larry nice looking boat you got there … you couldn’t have picked a better next project than AC 120, lots of fun :smiley:

Hey Goose … looking good mate, I’ve been taking my time getting hull prepared (the perfectionist in me) which leads to a question for Cluadio.

In preparing the male mould I’m trying to get the best finished possible to reduce the amount of sanding of the FBG from this mould, I’m now wondering about the pro’s & con’s of making a female mould, thinking we would have much better finished hull ? … what is your thoughts on this ?

Cheers K1

150

Hi K1
generally you will get a better skin with a female mould, how “much better” depends on the master perfect finish.
It is possible to have the same results with the use of latex film as demostrated in the links inserted on previous message.
Is a faster and cheaper method to obtain a Hull.
On the other hands, aside the costs, the female mould is justified if you wish to make several copies.
Up to you to decides ! Personally I will not be afraid to do some additional sanding if necessary !
Cheers
Claudio

151

Thanks Claudio … I would just like the best hull finish possible, I will look into the latex option, was too busy playing around with films, totally dropped that idea now, too many little problems.

In the mean, a little more “elbow grease” and back to sanding :stuck_out_tongue: thank you !

Cheers K1

152

Hi guys…

Thanks for your explanation about glass and resin Claudio, would you mind clarifying something for me?

My hull will now consist of 4 layers of 80g/m² glass as you suggest, what are your recommendations for the mold? (I’m placing an order asap)

Thanks

Goose

Rant/vent: :mad:

So I take a day off to glass my mold, find a chandlery that stock ‘all I could want’ and get up early for the 1.5 hours of driving required for the return trip.

Why I constantly hope for materials and service in this city is beyond me. Yes they have everything I need except for glass (6oz only) after being told on the phone just last week that they have ‘all kinds’.

In a city with a population of 1.2 million and an astounding number of boat owners, I am once again forced to spend my money out of province and/or out of country. I have the same damn problem with aircraft materials and supplies.

Canada’s culture of 'We have nothing in stock except the biggest movers, but can order it in for you… is THE biggest frustration for me that you can imagine… enough to consider moving or doing something else other than hobbies.

I spend, on average, $4000 per year on my hobbies… 85% of that is spent in the US solely because it is simply not available here. So much for supporting the local guy.

Businesses in Ottawa have little to zero web presence… it missed the Google bus by at least 10 years! Get a freakin’ clue people…

FU Ottawa, I’m never buying local again… as if I could lol

slides soap box back under the stairs and wanders off, mumbling, to play VSK for the rest of the day…

153

Goose
2 layers of 80g/m² will be good for the wooden master and finishing with water paper sanding from 240/320 grade. No need to go further since corresponding to the hull interior.
After that, apply 5 to 6 layers of mold release Wax according to manufacturer instructions.

Cheers
Claudio

PS: very surprised to discover your difficulties in procuring Composites Materials in Ottawa.

I went searching with Google “fiberglass trading Ottawa” and this is what I found :

Phil’s Foils stocks the following as standard materials:

Cores: Sitka Spruce, Western Red Cedar, Douglas Fir, 5lb ft3 Core-Cell ™ foam, and 9.5 lb endgrain balsa.

Fabrics: 2.3 oz e-glass, 6 oz e-glass, 1708 biaxial e-glass, 13 oz unidirectional e-glass, 6 oz Kevlar ™, 5.7 oz / yd woven carbon fiber and 9 oz/yd unidirectional carbon fiber.

You are not limited to the above materials, but consider lead times and costs for other materials in small quantity. A small deposit may be required to confirm your order. Balance is due when the product is ready to be shipped. All prices are F.O.B. Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.

To place your order phone (613) 599-6951 or email .

154

Goose,

additionally I found these adresses about modelling : See OVR in Ottawa

Canada

  • Canadian Radio Yachting Association : The National Authority for radio control yacht racing in Canada -http://www.crya.ca/

  • Ottawa Valley Racers : The OVR is a radio control model boat club operating in the Ottawa Valley area - No answer !.

  • Howard’s Hobby Shop
    920 W Main St
    Ottawa, IL 61350

  • Windsor Model Yacht Club : The Club is located in Windsor,Ontario. Established in 1994, this is a club that sails radio controlled yachts.

Claudio

155

Sort of off toppic, but instead of VSK, try some of the regattas at http://sailonline.org :slight_smile:

156

goose…
i know what you mean… but i also know that if you ask a doctor what a valve stem is… you need it for your car… he wont have a clue…
i had the same problem where i live… I had to educate my lhs… and now they are getting the stuff… some are willing to even order it…at a huge mark-up or course… which i do mind a bit… but I have also made friends with the one owner. and now… if i need something on a sunday. and he is around. he will open up for 10 min…

now as for ottawa… i know a great store near you… i think about an hour drive from you… in kingston called …leading edge hobbies

http://www.leadingedgehobbies.com/oscommerce/catalog/default.php

now it takes me 6 hours to drive to ottawa… and only 5 to get to kingston… so if you do the math… it shoudl only take you an hour to get there… I do alot of bussiness with them. and they have given me breaks of stuff…
there is a model club near you give them a call. and talk to the submariners… those guys can get a lot done with junk that nobody wants… they might be able to help you
good luck

157

Gents…

Thank you one and all for your help and I apologize for my rant, but I have had it up to here! :banghead:

Thanks Claudio… beware there is an Ottawa in the USA as per a couple of those links, one here wouldn’t answer the phone, but the good news of spending the day driving all over the city, was that I got in touch with Dave at Competition Composites Inc.
Now Dave was wetting out a layer of carbon fibre on a full size rudder when I found him and although they don’t normally sell supplies to the public, they have recently had to due to demand.

This guy really knows his stuff and I ended up getting:
[ul]
[li]3.8oz S glass
[/li][li]2.8oz E glass
[/li][li]Peelply
[/li][li]West 410 filler
[/li][li]West 105
[/li][li]West 206
[/li][li]Pumps etc…
[/li][/ul]

I came home and as per the pic, layed up the mold. Now before you freak out at the wrinkly blue stuff, that is the Peelply (it doesnt drape like glass). This acts in a similar way to Claudio’s polythene wraps except it absorbs the amine blush and when it sets up, you rip it off (it’s impossible to rip) it comes off in one piece, blush and all :slight_smile:

That means lots less sanding and filling. Yay. Oh, I also prefer the West system because of the low odour… I’m glassing in my shop.

Under that is two layers of S glass and I opted for the 207 hardener for the longer open time… I hate being rushed. The S glass drapes beautifully.

I used rollers as I prefer them to brushes, it seems easier to push the glass to remove the wrinkles.

So not a total loss today, but the proof is in the pudding as they say…

Lets see what this comes out like in a day or two…

Cheers

Goose

(much calmer now)

158

Hey Goose, just a heads up on peel ply…it can bond quite well to laminate, beware you do not rip the whole laminate off the plug when releasing it.

Another option to remove amine blush is simply using scotchbrite pad over laminate before next bonding paint or more glass.

Nice job so far btw, you and Alan are really powering thru the builds.

Cheers…Gary

159

Goose

from your picture, I cannot see if the the glass cloth was wrapped at 45°.

Generally this help a lot to overcome the wrinkles problems during lamination.

From the AC33 tread :

here the glass weawe is at 45°

Cutting the cotton cloth also at 45°

Cheers
Claudio

160

Wow … this is where i should be hanging out :slight_smile:

K1W1, are you gonna make a mould or you are using the wooden hull with glass lamination ? What of glass you are using for the mould ? Weave or mat ?
Can’t wait for you guys to finish it up man …