Hey Alan, seem to recall a recent conversation in which you said …“no new projects for a while, just gonna play with my ETNZ”…yeah right!!!.
This one is gonna have you very busy for a few months. I will be watching your build…looking forward to development…
The AC 15’s story all came clear to me after the post from Wellington, I now remember seeing the AC15’s while I was working on the water during the AC cup in Auckland approx 2001. I think the big ticket $$$ was part of the exclusivity of having AC team colours splashed all over the AC15 hulls…these trademarks are jealously protected by the relevant syndicates …after all …apart from the benefit of having a wealthy Swiss benefactor…a wealthy US benefactor…and loads of very wealthy laywers in between them…much of the funds raised for many teams comes from selling advertising /marketing rights.
I am picking that sooner or later this is gonna be an issue for this 120 class…unless the teams/ syndicates have relaxed their trademark protection??.
Well you know us boys when it comes to our toys, doesn’t take much to get me into something that I have passion for … :zbeer:
Personally I see this issue of this syndicate protection rights etc. as a bit of a storm in a wine glass.
IACC guiding rules state the following on the subject:
Qoute "
A.1.2 PUBLICITY
The boat and the decorations shall call the IACC Boat . Each owner is nevertheless responsible for any infringment of commercial laws forbidding the use of logos and marks in case of trade of the boat. Commercial Trading is discouraged without previous agreements of company
represented in the logos and marks. Similar observation apply for the Class Insigna." Unquote.
Clearly all responsibilty is on the boat owner, now if a syndicate or sponsor wanted to take a modeler to court on this issue … can you imagine the public up roar and the negative press coverage this would attract ? Big Corporate taking modeler to court replicating boat design & branding for his model yacht … hmm maybe one could have early retirement on this one… hey bring it on is all I can say :lol:
You are 100% right Claudio, model AC building encourages the development sport/hobby that supports and promotes all levels of the sailing community. Modeling (scratch builds) for display, pleasure & racing as such, is a non-commercail profit making execise.
It fills the personal needs (read passion) of those of us who don’t have the financial resources, but can prusue our love of sailing, at an affordable level.
I agree on the other hand, that a commercail enterprise (chinese copies as an example) is a completely different pond that maybe should be looked at more closely as many of these companies are profiting from mis-leading first time RC sailing with nice looking cheap rubbish (promoted as AC models) which ultimately turns potential RC sailors away from the hobby/sport … that’s a crime in my book against all levels of sailing.
Thanks Claudio I missed it when I down-loaded NZL-92 plans sorry … having lots of fun catching clips as they spring loose from transom & bow planking, in those tight to get at areas … its slow progress.
One positive point is that as I’m gluing with PVA the entire length of each plank where they fit together, it appears to be very rigid and hopefully this will minimise the chance of the hull flexing too much between the shadows for the next stage of sanding.
Do you recieve and manage the trail the shinkable plastic foil that you ordered ?
wow … nice… any chance he could post some ideas on how he got this finish… it looks amazing… i dont think i could that good in 10 years of trying…
did he used a primer coat first??
that boat looks great
I think that Strappaghetti painted the hull in 3 steps:
He painted the black and the red parts using black and red paint. It is easy to separate them using sticky tape.
He attached the grey stickers made by a friend in typography (the stickers have inside the inscriptions “NEW ZEALAND” incised; on thys way the black inscription, is the black back color painted on the step 1.
He painted the complite hull using transparent paint.
Probably a bit late for you but you will find that pva does not sand well, the pva will sand at much slower rate than the balsa, this is why I choose CA for my planking. I have had no flex in my planking while sanding back…but a couple of things to do to reduce this is…keep your sandpaper sharp and let the paper do the work…do not press into the sanding block…just let the sanding block flow with the hull shape. I did lay a laminate of glass into the inside of hull to get some structural stiffness and provide a firm backing for balsa…also when doing this the excess epoxy will bleed through the planking which helps to bond it all together.
Just a point on your comments about using epoxy versus polyester…
Maybe its just the type of epoxy I have used in the past…but I have found that it is alot more difficult to remove air bubbles with epoxy…polyester just seems to roll out and sit better. You have a very limited time with epoxy to get it right…even if it has a slow cure of 1 hour, I still find after 15- 20 minutes it has become to thick/ sticky to work anymore.
Hiya Gary, yes a little late as should have planking all completed Sunday, have been carefully wiping excess PVA from hull surface as I’m going along but will take your experience advice on the sanding thanks.
Epoxy has already been purchased & it has been suggested to glass the inner hull before sanding, being the cautious bunny that I am …have some very dense narrow width sponge rollers and I will observe the air bubble point, it if it looks problematic, I will change to polyester for the outter hull glassing :zbeer:
Have been further playing around with the “heat film wrap” (shrinks) as release agent between hull and FBG. The domestic version is touch and go with heat, one small hole and it’s a problem. Next tried industrial version yesterday (little thicker) very hard to control the shrinkage with heat application, too much heat, too much shrinkage and it puts unwanted stress on the hull, there I’m concerned of the hull warping :scared:
Tomorrow I will try “cling wrap film” which has lot of elasticity (stretches) but wrinkles where there in the areas where no tension has been applied. Experiment is to use spray adhesive first and stetch film over the adhesive and see result … interesting stuff !!!
If it works ok, considering to use it on over last layer of FBG on the hull (without spray adhesive of course) as films gives very smooth finish that requires minimum of sanding, not a great fan of sanding FBG at the best of times.
If does not work out, I can always make another hull off the plug using the more conventional method.
PVA release agent is very cheap, very easy to spray, or you can apply with brush or sponge. You can apply several coats if you are concerned about build up thickness. When you are done and hull is removed from plug the PVA is water soluable so easy to clean up.
Gun clean up is dead easy and I I left this stuff in my gun for weeks and it has remained usable.
In my experience with pva, first apply a mist coat, wait a few minutes, another heavier coat , wait a few minutes another heavier coat…thats it, jobs done. Do not apply to thick as it will run and sag.
Any fibreglass supplier will have this stuff on the shelf, last time I bought a gallon it was around $30 NZD and that will last a very long time…your job would not use more than 500ml.
Hey Alan, just had a epithany…if you are not set up with spray gun and compressor…use a atomiser spray bottle…pretty much any house hold cleaner spray bottle would do…I cannot think of any reason why this would not work. You would just have to ensure that you got a wet coverage…you should see the gloss film appear when you are applying.
Cannot believe I did not think of this years ago…for those small pva release jobs it would make things so easy …
Hooowwwlll … :spin: what great feelling to have finished planking my first hull, Claudio the lines of the boat are just out of this world … fantastic design.
Tomorrow will FBG inner side of the hull and fill some of the hollows & dents on the outter hull with wood filler, before beginning sanding Monday.
Dreamwakes, will check out that PVA release … need to find real fibreglass supplier in these parts, mostly at the handymens stores and only then the bare basics.
