Hi Gilles…
Great! Thanks for that, I will check it out…
Goose
Hi Gilles and Goose,
be carefull about Carbon tubes, exist two types the UD and CF.
The UD = unidirectional is not very rigid and is cheaper
The CF = Cross fibers is very rigid and is the type that should be used.
A table of types and weight can be downloaded (PDF) from this site :
http://www.polyplancomposites.com/
For the AC120 Mast I would suggest to compose it with the 12, 10 and 8 mm OD
I just extracted the page : 
Tubes Carbone = Carbon Tubes - for each external diameter there are two inner diameters to facilitate the staggering.
Joncs Carbone = Carbon Rods
Ciao
Claudio
I would be wary of using CF kite spars for masts, they’re designed to do a different job and in my experience flex too much. The best results I’ve had are from pultruded unidirectional CF tubes, high modulus or high stiffness are best.
I get mine from here generally, they cost a bit more but the quality control is good.
Ray
Hi All,
Gidday Dreamwakes maybe another Kiwi building IAAC 120 coming up mate 
? interesting about AC 15 in Wellington but 14k for com hull ? have to be sandwich short of picnic to pay that sort of money, unless you’re a wealthly woman I see.
Update on my progress, I have finished preparing the shadows & supports in readiness for planking. All is square, smooth bevelled and have nice study frame to work with now.
Goose when it came to bevelling I put double-side tape strip on narrow piece of 4mm ply and stuck my sand paper to it, end up with flexible sanding tool which is good for bevelling all round the frames & shadows, works nicely.
Today I will strip 3 mm balsa, I only have 100 cm length so I will need to diagonally join them as I’m planking.
Claudio, referring to your AC 33 build I noted that (it looked like) you started planking from the sheerline toward keel and from the keel toward the sheerline at the same time, working both sides of the hull simultaneously, should I do the same on a AC 120 ? being cautious first timer.
Further, I have no experience in epoxy fibre glassing & thinking about next step of waxing the hull for releasing FBG application stage. So far I’m unable to find release wax (but still looking & will even test wax from my snowboard) and I was wondering if anyone has tried sandwich plastic wrap ? It’s strong and stretches into shape without creases, I have used it with polyester resins with great success when I’ve wanted to mould parts before, my question is will it work with epoxy resins ?
Cheers K1
Hi K1
generally I try to progress my work adding strip symmetrically.
One strip to the left and one strip to right starting from bottom (deck line) going up to water line and from top (hull bottom) down .
This method will distribute stress loads equally to the hull form.
Plastic film like polyane (garbage bags) do not adhere to Epoxy.
Other transparent film generally used for packing do not adhere also.
Nevetheless it is easy to know, try a sample !!!
In term of lamination there is no difference between polyester resin and epoxy resin.
Cheers
Claudio
Hi Claudio/NB…
Thanks for your comments about mast selection, very interesting. It is obvious we need to discuss this further.
Claudio: Are you saying to taper the mast in sections i.e 12mm for 1/3, 10 for 1/3, 8 for final 1/3?
K1: Looking good mate, well done. Sanding tool is a good idea.
I have used sandwich wrap a mold release for aircraft parts and epoxy resin with no issue EXCEPT be very sure to attach the film to the part very well as having it slide off your part while glassing is a bad thing.
Don’t ask me how I know this 
Cheers!
Goose
Test works fine, laid 3 layers of 80 gsm @ 30 minute intervals and after couple of hours the forme just about fell of the the dummy mould and has nice smooth finish … sigh my problem solved, no wax required 
K1: Good job my friend…
I started planking today and its going pretty well. I am using Titebond to glue the planks on so its a slow process.
One point of interest so far is the need to cut a taper in the planks at the stern from S10 to the transom. The transom shadow has a tight curve at the chine and there are a lot of planks making their way there.
You probably already know that, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
Cheers
Goose
I do expect reception of a thermo forming film 1mt wide 2 mt long.
The idea is to apply it over the laminated cloths and then using an airgun at 60/70°c to let it contracting.
This film could be used also on the master !
one adress in France : http://www.novipack.com/content/view/24/90/lang,fr/
Cheers
Claudio
Claudio it looks like the same stuff from what I can see, my wife uses it to seal bowls of food etc. to keep them air tight and stop odours in the fridge also used for wrapping kids sandwiches for school lunch to keep them fresh.
Also found if I use hair dryer over it contracts the film (shrinks) you can buy it in the supermarket in 20-30-50 cm wide by 50 metre long.
The kitchen is a great source problem solves including keeping the beers cold :zbeer: K1
…
K1
Matthias has updated the AC120 Cup Rules !!!
Claudio
Thanks Claudio & Matthias,
Goose, time is now being measured by “planks per hour” 
as I’m stretching at the same time (joining 100 cm lengths) I’m averaging 3-4 per hour finished and glued-in, I’m using fast drying (and it’s not) PVA. Reckon couple of days work still & enjoying aquiring new skills along the way.
Reckon the transom tight, wait to you get to the sharp end buddy K1
Claudio,
You don’t know how much I learned reading this post. I’m close to start building a RG-65 and this post have a big amount of very good information. Is the best instructional about how to build a boat!
Thanks, if you wish to read others discussions about RG65, you may follows here some topics, in particular the CD65 are all in Italian. The CD65 started within the topic " RG65 in Italia" and followed later with “CD65” :
http://www.baronerosso.net/forum/search.php?searchid=1861631
Ciao
Claudio
Haha! The new measure of time… I am averaging 2 to 4 per hour and exactly the same on the new skill thing.
Oh yeah, we have had a few ‘words’ already…
Cheers
Goose
Hi Claudio…
Can you show me how you connected the keel bulb to the keel?
Thanks a lot…
Goose
Goose
just a couple of images as an example :
The additional pin serve to avoid bulb rotation acting as a key.
Typical integration of the treaded rod :
Claudio
Perfect!
Did you put the brass tube between the bulb halves before epoxy/glass or drill it out afterwards?
Thanks!
Goose
Afterwards, also because you need to search first for the position of the CG !
Cheers
Claudio
Great, Thanks…
Goose