ETNZ IACC120 Dual build thread

Hi and thanks for looking!

K1w1 (Germany) and me (Canada) are both first-time boat builders with full size sailing experience, determined to build and sail an ETNZ yacht after being dissappointed with the Thunder Tiger version.

Fortunately for us, along came a design master in Claudio D, who supplied detail drawings and a step-by-step build thread for his AC33 that we will use for ideas and inspiration.

We welcome all of your comments, suggestions and guidance in this build and heres hoping for a very successful outcome! :zbeer:



Very Very Good !


Hi All,

Goose really happy to be aboard, following a e-mail from Gillies about your build intentions and after few exchanges today of getting to know you I was convinced now’s the to pull the trigger and get into this project, birds from the same feather fly together :bouncy: I’m rearing to go !

Claudio it’s an honour to have such a brillant teacher guiding us, I’ll do my best in graduating into IACC 120 class. My goal on completion of this build is to have a great boat which I can use to compete in the IAAC 120 cup held in Italy, sailing naturally with a ETNZ. Hopefully Goose can be there too :zbeer:

I shall print out the frame templates tomorrow and make up the shadows to mount on building board over this coming weekend. Saw Claudio’s recommendation for 3 mm planking and try and track down Samba/Obeche wood, if unable to find I’m guessing balsa would good to use as alternative ?

Well Goose, happy & fun building and look forward to cracking some champagne together on completion of this great new experience of our first scratch build together.

Cheers K1

There is nothing wrong in using balsa to plank your hull. Balsa sheet is available in 48 inch lengths (by mail order) and is easily split into planks using a home made ‘stripper’.

A very good building guide can be down loaded from the AMYA web site (US1M class) and it shows how to use 36 inch lengths scarfed to fit the boat.

Good luck in your projects.

Hi all…

K1: Great news! err but we will be running together as Kiwis don’t fly, right? :smiley:

Italy is a long way from Canada, but who knows… anything is possible.

Are you printing the templates as supplied? Remember we need to reduce the outline by the thickness of the planking. I am converting the files as we speak.

As John mentioned (Thanks John) balsa is ok for planking but as Claudio mentioned in his AC33 build, it does deform easily during the sanding process and a good suggestion is to epoxy the inside of the mold before sanding.

If you are going to race yours in the class you will need to be careful about keeping your hull (and entire rig) within limits to be legal.

I am planning to add about 20mm to the height of the shadows to lift the lowest point of the hull off the board, same as Claudio did on the AC33 as I think it will be easier to hang the glass down the sides without distortion by touching the board. It should be easier to trim the hull as well (I think?). I can email you the modified shadows if I get them done in time before you take off!

Re: Champagne… sounds good to me mate.

John: There is some great information in those 1m pdfs, thanks a lot for tonights bed-time reading! :slight_smile:



welcome abroad gentlemen… i hope we can help you out in anyway possible… there are alot of good people on this forum… I for one am looking forward to this build… I love the americas cup boats… ( not the new ones SORRY DICK)
could you post pics and step by step as to how you are doing… just like Claudio did…
even Us ( ahem) ( cough) experts learn from the beginer yatch builder…
where did you get the plans for etnz??? was there a site?
I got nlz 60 sitting in my basement… I would think the old( i like that… old as in 2 years) etnz would look like, next to the last kiwi boat that won

cheer and welcome:zbeer:
where can i get plans for the boat?

Hi All
if you are a little more patient, I will retrace the frames taking into account the the thickness of 3mm or 1/8inch for planking including the overall height from the mounting plate like this :

If you pass your E-mail with private message I can send the drawings in PDF that you can print directly on A4 and glue it on wood.

tipical set ups:

here the CD65
and here the recent AC33


HI Cougar,

you can dowload it from here :

under the IACC Projects (left column scroll)


Ok I’m in no rush Claudio, have send PM and will wait for your retracing of the frames to come through, in the mean time I will start gathering inventory in preperation to start gluing templates and cutting shadows to mount on the building board …oh and pick up some 3 mm balsa

Goose you right we are both testament to the fact Kiwi’s can’t fly, l’ve got thousands of broken parts to prove that :slight_smile: thats one reason I’m into sail pal :slight_smile: hey we have to find some way to get you over here for IAAC 120 cup effort, can’t have 1 sole Kiwi battling the Euro’s alone :wink:

Just read Line 7 bit the dust back home, great sailing gear company gone sigh!

Have a good one

Just been studying plan detail together with looking at NZL 92 pictures, I’m really into the design detail and have a question.

I would like to incorporate the bevel angle between the hull and the deck which goes from the bow and tapers off to the base of the shrouds, would need to allow for this at hull planking stage or would better to do this by trimming the hull when it comes together with the deck ?

Photo attached for clarification

Hi again
here in attachment the Zip file containing all the frames for ETNZ in PDF format

Each single frame file can be printed with a FOXIT Reader by adjusting the printing scale to 100% as said before under “reccomendation” message 28


just the plan showing the Bow edge made from triplex of 5mm

the second solution should be better at the condition to use a wider wood strip along the deck line.
I will make a draw

some pictures that may help construction and decoration

taken during transport :


Here the promised draw.

In order to gain weight, I propose to adds two strips along the deck line as seen on the drawing 6x4 and 3x3 balsa or samba


Hi Claudio, thanks for frame update that certainly makes life little easier cutting on Jig-saw.

Great idea of the two strips running deck/hull for the bevel angle, we have some time before we get to that point so will think about it until then.

Cheers K1

Hi all…

Cougar: Thank you sir. We will be posting lots of pics to leverage all the experts in here as you mentioned. Claudio has answered your plans question below.

Claudio: Wonderful! Thanks for your offer and pictures, they clarify a lot.

K1: We are at the same starting position mate, I will be getting stuff together over the weekend and maybe start if I have time. Sunday looks good for flying :slight_smile:

I have a graveyard of airframes in my shop but can’t stop! It’s a sickness…

Hehe… love to come and join the NZ team for the IACC120 racing, will look into this some more in time.

Re: Line 7. No way! Wow, that sucks… L7 have been around forever…



Hi all, hey Goose,

Heading home following business trip now (been doing everything on the run so far on my netbook, sitting on train now so could lose my internet connection if we hit a black hole) looking forward to getting home and my teeth into this project.

Just making plan of action here so I’m up and running when I get home, and want to see how it lines up with yours … so far

  1. Tell the wife got another project, she most likely move my digs into the workshop now :scared:

  2. Adjusted frame plan from Claudio done (print out this evening) need to buy printer, bugger knew I forgot something.

  3. Tomorrow will pick board & balsa and paste template & start cutting shadows and mount to building board, maybe start Sunday if I don’t have too many offer tasks from madam.

  4. Strip and plank hull using 3 mm balsa this end if can’t find CD samba material, what are you using ?

  5. Sand & prep hull for Fibre-glassing, see from CD’s AC 33 build he recommends 3-4 layers of 80g/m² glass … right or ???

Later tonight will read AC 120 Cup class rules little more closely to make sure I stay within spec.

That should be enough to get me started for now, did I miss anything ?

I understand that you have already ordered you sail suit? Are you getting both A & B rig or ? I should think about ordering some also … hey come’on if the Kiwi’s are going to have a campaign for IAAC 120 cup, you gotta be there.!! Have you know if there any AC 120’s in N.Z waters yet or on the building board ?

However, weather permitting Sunday everything maybe be put on hold for the day, desperately need more stick time since finished mods on my TT Titanic :wink:

Talk soon :slight_smile:

An additional help concerning the mounting frame Set Up

Important to note that because of the contour beveling of the frames, some are positioned to the left of the Datum line e some are positioned to the right.
Respectively from left to right, the frames n° 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5 and 0 are on the left,
the frames 4, 3, 2, 1 and 12 are on the right .

I have found out that it is possible to Free Download an old version of Corel Draw 5 that is the one I use for all my drawings.