For those that do not knows yet the IACC 120 ETNZ RC Model, this is the overall plan :
Claudio
Clauido, have you got mental telepathy capabilities that go with your brilliant design & building skills 
I just signed on to ask about the mounting frame set-up …and there was the answer!! … :lol: Spooky
Your updated P.C is working over time, thank you so much and really glad to hear you got your ability to read your corel files again. I fight with Windows Vista at work all day and come home to my beloved old XP version.
Cheers K1
Goose
last information for today.
The Metivier shop in France has confirmed to distribute regularly in Canada , recently was in Quebec.
The site is : http://www.metivier-modelisme.com/index.php?manufacturers_id=4&sort=3a&page=2
baguettes = strips
You can find a lot of materials , wood, metal, carbon, etc.
They told me that the transport average cost may be around 22€ / 25€.
You can pay with Credit Card
Claudio
As an old modeler I knows what it is necessary to start, I believe that now you and Goose have all the informations.
I just added the adress of Metivier in France that is sailing a lot of materials used for modeling.
He confirmed shipping everywhere.
Ciao
Claudio
PS: hope the PC will resist !
Thanks great …I’m learning real fast, thanks again
I have one more question: I have the sail plan for “A rig” with 78 dm2 area (light airs) available of the IACC 120 site and reading the 2009 IAAC 120 class rules there is minimum 60 dm2 for RIG 2, I’m assuming this is a “B Rig” (heavier airs) do you have or can you point me in the right direction for a sail plan for a “B Rig” ?
I will then ask a sail maker to make up sails while I’m building & save some time.
Cheers K1
Hi K1…
You’re quite the comedian when tired and on the train home 
1: lol Mine is resigned to the fact thats what I do.
2: I sucked Claudio’s plans into CAD (see pic) and was able to print it at work on a single sheet. Yes I am spoilt for access to this plotter.
3: Ditto.
4: I am looking at a hardwood strip in the stock bins at my local hobby store, although I am heeding Claudio’s warning about trying to sand hardwood and still might choose a hard 3mm stock which I will strip.
5: Claudio is the jedi master so I am planning to do as he says 
Don’t think you missed anything. I started a list of materials needed and it looks like this:
3mm plywood for formers Rona
12mm Sq hardwood for jig Rona
1600x400x20 jig baseboard Rona
1/4"x1/8" planking (hard) LHS
4 yards 2.3oz FG cloth Noahs
1 yard 5.7oz Carbon fibre cloth Noahs
West 105 Epoxy 1 quart Noahs
West 206 Hardner .44 pint Noahs
West Mini pump set Noahs
1 can black spray paint Rona
1 can white spray paint Rona
TR104 Release wax Noahs
RTV139 molding silicone for keel ?
2x10mm (8mm ID) Carbon tube 1m long R2Hobbies
1x8mm (6mm ID) Carbon tube ferrule R2Hobbies
That might alert you to some things but it by no means a definative list! There is a sea of fiiting to add (pun intended).
Sails: No, I haven’t ordered the sails yet, I have asked Luca for an estimate and is yet to get back to me. Claudio suggested a 72.1dm2 rig and I am planning on the one set of sails.
Don’t know if the IACC120’s have hit NZ yet, but knowing kiwi sailors, I am sure they have.
Cheers!
Goose
Oh man…
You guys post faster than I can respond to earlier questions!
Thanks Claudio for all your help, there will be plenty more questions!
K1, Claudio will probably have answered your sails question before I finish typing this, and I’m a touch typist! lol
Luca is the man for sails.
Look forward to updates over the weekend.
Cheers
Goose
Actually I do not have any sail plan yet to be around the minimum of 60dm².
If you wish to call it Rig type B there is no problem, The Italian called ‘RIG 1’ from 85 to 73dm² and ‘Rig 2’ from 73 to 60dm².
I shall ask Matthias or Luca if they have such a plan.
You may contact them yourself via the Forum in English language at :
http://iacc120cup.altervista.org/Main0E.html
cheers
Claudio
Goose ,
I have read your list diagonally and I believe you should consider to buy a cabon tube of 12mm OD - 10mm ID
As general indication a sort of "rule of tumb’ , for a hull lenght of 120 -130 cm long, the composite epoxy/glass lamination weight should be around 6.5 to 7.5 g/dm²
Considering that 50% will cloths and 50% will resin.
Assuming a hull surface of about 38dm² , the expected final weight of an empty hulla, should be between 247g and 285g.
The reasonables limits should be 480g - 500g for the total Hull a Deck
Do not forget that the minimum weight is 4500g all in, with maximum 3000g for Fin+ Bulb.
Based on above, the difference of 1500g should be used for the Hull and Deck, for the Radio-Servos assembly, for the Rig and for the Rudder. From personal experience RIG & Radio Assy should come out with 600g.
Cheers
Claudio
I would not plank with a hard wood as the sanding would be a major chore. Balsa sand down to shape very quickly. Remember that its main purpose is to create the shape of the hull so that it can be glassed over.
There is a good Canadian source for balsa in 48 inch sheets. You can buy a 10 sheet pack for about $23. plus shipping. So buy some CA glue and other oddments at the same time.
and search on balsa 48
Also - don’t discount the use of home insulation foam strips that after shaping and layup are glassed inside and out to form a composite, foam-core sandwich. A sheet of pink/blue/gray extruded foam can easily be cut with small bandsaw, tablesaw with plywood blade. Make them a bit thicker than 1/4 in. or 4 mm to allow stiffness while laying up, and plenty of material to allow nice shaping with simply coarse (80 grit) sandpaper - follows but a touch of 150 grit. Here in US a full sheet 48 x 96 inches x 3/4 inch thick will cost about $10.00 - $12.00 US so it is very inexpensive, can be cut to full 48 in (1.2 meter) and have plenty for more boats.
Dick
ADDED - photo >>> the start of a float layup using both foam strips, and foam station templates. (1/2 hull)
Hi everybody
let me express my opinion on the subject - planking
My personal experience suggest that there risks associated with various methods. I have experimented all.
The “beginners” should be made aware of that in order to make the right choice in accordance with their own skill.
The matter of facts is that some methods requires very good skill and good eyes, some others instead presents almost invisibles deformations when sanding.
If the planking material is too soft, the handling pressure during sanding will produce momentary hollow (deflections) and at the end one may come out with an ondulated shape.
To avoid such effect, it is suggested to increase the planking thickness or double the number of supports (frames) reducing the distances between.
Foaming between frames is very attractive because it is a relatively fast and cheap method. The drawback is that, during sanding with a plate, the overall shape may become polygonal and not round. Here again the increased number of support will reduce the risk of segmentation that in any case requires additional filler to recover an acceptable spherical shape. Not easy to make it right !
The sketch show the risk (magnified for the purpose) associated with the various methods and the potential corrective actions.
My approach is in general to prevent more than correct the defects, this is why I generally prefers the use of 3mm thick samba planking for hulls lenght between 100cm and 130cm where the distance between frames is less than 12cm
Claudio
Hello All,
Claudio I have two learner questions:
-
When I screw the blocks onto the building board for the frames, do I need to screw/glue the frames (I will be using laser for exact alignment) to the blocks ? or should the frame mould be removalable for later deck moulding ?
-
When applying the fibre-glass layers for the hull, it is possible/feasiable in your opinion to apply the graphics before the final lamination, I was impressed with you AC 33 cloth lamination and thought it could possibly eliminate painting with this project, if it is feasiable ?
Cheers K1
K1,
1- The frames do not need to be glued, just tight enough to stay in place. Little hammering for centering . Sheet of paper between block and frame can help .
2- what sort of material you intend to use as graphic ?
The major part of the hull and deck is black color - this will be the base color.
If you paint the red and white/grey areas over the black, than you may protect the painting with a glass layer - decorations include text that can be printed on transparent adesive paper to be protected with simple transparent warnish.
Be carefull to avoid to much wet sanding of glass layer otherwise you may remove part of the glass and paints
You need to experiment this approach making some samples. Density of support , trasparencies and color contrasts are some time difficult to manage.
Cheers
Claudio
Claudio, I agree with your summary of the potential problems with planking, I’ve experienced deflection in the past.
My solution, as you may have seen elsewhere, is to build a solid plug. I have found that it takes no more effort/time than framing & planking - after cutting the laminations and glueing them up I can rough shape the plug with my power plane in only an hour or so and after that sanding to a final finish/shape is pretty similar to what you need to do with plank on frame. A solid plug does use more material but it doesn’t have to be of high quality - I use cheap construction grade plywood - and filler can hide a multitude of sins. Finally, I now use vacuum bagging for my lamination and a solid plug avoids any possibility of distortion, or even crushing, when the vacuum is applied.
I’ve posted elsewhere my use of your cotton fabric technique to decorate my catamaran hulls. I had one or two problems with some creases that will impair the final finish a little but overall I consider the technique a success and practice will make perfect - thanks for the idea.
Ray
If you want to put a layer of “decoration” under the final layer of glass, keep in mind that epoxy resin will slowly “Yellow” with age and UV exposure. Some color schemes will be affected more than others.
There are some epoxies that have UV inhibitors in them that may be better for the outside layer, if you want to use white to blue colors. See Claudio’s IACC 33 thread where he experiments with different materials under the final glass layer.
The clearest resin is the polyester resin that is used in custom surfboard construction. It is “water” clear and has UV inhibitors too. I don’t advocate using polyester resin for our boats, but it is out there!
Hew, the epoxy I’m trying out on my big cat is ‘water clear’ with UV inhibitors - SP-112.
Ray
Hi guys…
Thanks for all the great discussion in this thread, it is really helpful for us rookies.
A huge thunderstorm rolled into town last night and has continued all day… a great day for building!
As you can see I have made a start:
Pic 1: Printed my plans and cleaned up my workshop. There are several aircraft projects on the go just out of sight.
Pic 2: Pondered the plans for some time.
Pic 3: I spray glued the hull former plan to a piece of 12mm MDF.
Pic 4: I spray glued all the formers to a 1/8" hardboard ready for cutting out.
Pic 5&6: After around 7 hours of work, I did a dry test fit to see how it all looks.
I’m pretty happy with that so far although I did make a few newbie mistakes… all corrected as I went.
I have not been able to find a local supplier of obechi for planking. I don’t believe that a country of this size should be so damn difficult in finding materials but this constantly drives me crazy! :mad:
Ok, I’m done…
Claudio has supplied a website in France that will supply and ship obechi and I will use that as a last resort.
Until I can secure some, there will be a delay in progress but I do have a little more I can do, so more updates as they happen.
Thanks again…
Goose
Western Red Cedar or Redwood as alternatives? Just rip to 3 or 4 mm thickness x 3/4 " wide. It sands easily, and is beautiful to work with ( and great looks too if finished clear - not that you would for this project)
Just a thought for the Great North Builder. 
Thanks Dick…
I wasn’t sure what to use as a replacement for obechi but I guess any hardwood is ok?
Claudio used pine for his AC33… there is plenty here that I could rip as you suggest…
Cheers
Goose