I would not use a hardwood - stay with the softer kinds as I listed. Pine is OK but buy the expensive clear, straight grained stuff. If you can find a tool/die maker they might be able to point you toward a supplier for “Sugar Pine” which is used for making tooling models, etc. Now that is great stuff to work with - if you can find - and afford it. Fortunately we don’t need much.
I would not recommend ash, elm, oak, maple or birch. Once you start sanding you will see why.
Claudio, the International America’s Cup Class 1:20 (IACC 120) use a sails set 1 normally inside a wind range of 0-11 knots; and a sails set 2 between 11 and 16 knots. The set 1 surface have to be between 0,8m2 and 0,73m2; the set 2 not more than 0,6m2. On this image, it is possible to see the difference between the two sets: Luna Rossa is using a set 2 (0,55m2), ETNZ a set 1 (0,75m2).
Claudio, I really don’t know what material to use for graphics (had no experience at this level) and was just thinking a little ahead that I would like glass clear layer finish, I will make some experiments as you suggest.
Thanks for the tip Hew about U.V inhibitors. Ray your ‘water clear’ with UV inhibitors - SP-112 is it using polyester resin ?
Matthias thanks for the heads up on sail areas and condition for use, I will sent the information off to my sail maker in NZ. Look forward to getting down your way soon.
Hiya Goose, Show & tell time uh your workshop puts mine to shame (see pic) having two active teenagers forever building things I can spend ½ day cleaning it up but in 20 minutes it’s chaos again, so I learnt to go with the flow.
Everything closes around here at 13:00 hrs on Saturdays, so spend best part of yesterday racing around picking up supplies and missed the model shop by 5 mins i [/i]so have to wait till Monday to pick-up balsa.
Sprayed and mounted frames late yesterday afternoon and will be jig-sawing today, albeit it is illegal in these parts to make noises on Sunday’s :scared: I risk another visit from local friendly law enforces …have a good one, K1
K1
ETNZ is rater easy to decorate.
I suggest a basic color being Black
The Red and white/grey should be painted with airbrush masking the areas.
The name just print on adesive transparent film available at PC shops.
After that you could spray on top transparent paint either acrilic or polyeurethane.
Ask your body car painter near you.
There also Marine paints that contain anti-UV or the wooden floor transparent paint.
The choice is rather large.
Cheers
Claudio
Re: Your shop… not at all! Its taken all my life to finally have a workshop and over here it has to be in the house (basement) as the temp goes from -40c to +40c :nuts:
Why am I here again?
Oh yeah, the love of a good woman
It took a lot of hours on the jigsaw and although mine is pretty quiet (and not very good) I put on the ipod in lieu of earplugs and went to work. Good luck with getting yours done today.
Ok Claudio, will do painting & decorating as you suggest, thanks for the info.
Goose, -40 whoa thats cold enough to freeze the nuts off a tractor pal. Funny laws in this area about Sunday’s no washing cars, mowing lawns, hanging out washing and the list goes on, one that makes me laugh like hell is that if you get caught riding your “push bike” drunk, you lose your “car license” :lol: mind you that is 24/7 law.
Anyway I got busted today (as expected for making too much noise) after everything got cleared up ended sailing for rest of the day & tomorrow will finish jig-sawing and start stripping ready for planking.
Claudio, took note what you said about using 100 cm lengths approx 50 required, does that mean I will need to join some planks to where it is longer than the water line ?
Vagoose
I am in waterloo… and i have a iacc120. sitting in my basement… not totaly finisheh… but with you building this…maybe next year we get together… where you sailing? I dont know if i will ever finish nzl -60… i kinda of wanted oracle . or entz…
lets me know where you sail. and i may make a run up there…
Least you were able to sail the rest of the day mate.
I did the keel strip today and built a zero clearance throat for my table saw to rip down some stock that I will pick up on the way home from work tomorrow.
The ETNZ and the AC120 family is growing fast ! I recon more then 10 models actually under construction in Canada, Tasmania, Australia, France, Germany, Italy and probably USA and Chili.
This Alinghi is just started last Sunday, the builder is Paulin (he don’t speak English) from Strasbourg - France
Hope to see other Pics including the author’s and model names just to reconize them
Balsa ! at the condition that before start sanding you remove the hull from the base plate and spray/brush inside a layers or two of epoxy resin to increase solidity and obtain at the same time impermeabilisation/protection against water when you will start using wet paper later in the process.
Balsa tend to absorb rather easy the epoxy. At this stage I will no suggest to use also a layer of glass cloth, but it remain up to you to decide, is just a matter of confidence level !
Once polimerised, you put it back to the support plate and start your sanding without the risk to deflect the surface under handling pressure.
Thanks for the info Nautiboy, will follow that up.
Claudio, o.k have ordered the balsa, arrives Thursday, can only get it in 100 cm lengths, after I have stripped it to 5mm I’m guessing I will have to join strips before planking, are there any specail places I should or should place the joins ? Thanks for the explanation and I feel quite confident about sanding without the glass as I think the resin should give it enough strength as you say.
Finished jig-sawing frames this evening and mounted them to board just to see how they look, what a great feeling to get that finished.
While waiting for balsa to arrive I will bevel the shadows and clean up the frames in readiness for planking.
Cheers K1
P.S Marked pictures as requested great that so many IAAC 120 builds are now taking place.
I’m at the same point and dropping in to my local timber supplier to get some stock to rip down, hoping for Western Red Cedar or Sugar Pine or Redwood or Pine… In that order of preference.
Scott (RC flyer) suggested I check out this forum discussion. Very good start on your frames…exactly which boat is this you’re building? Have you begun planking yet? I’ve built kit boats (Soling 1M) and scratch build boats from plans US 1M one design, 1947 barrel back Chris Craft, shovel nose hydroplane, pickle fork hydro and even a copy of the 1898 Nathaniel Herreshoff designed “Gloriana” gaff rigged schooner…I much prefer scratch building myself. Planking can be a chore, can’t tell you how many times I CA glued my finger to the hull…but don’t despair…just pick away it methodically and soon this…will turn to this…and ultimately to this! I’m in Orleans, and can make myself available to assist you if you run into any difficulties
Mines the Team New Zealand boat of course NZL-92 from the last Americas cup (we will NOT talk about the results)
I’m not worried about learning to plank (argh! Insert pirate joke here) in fact looking forward to it, I have much more difficulty finding resources here in Ca.
Needless to say the three suppliers I spoke to today dont have Western Red Cedar in stock but will have “sometime soon”.
No rush, sorting out the table saw and tinkering with the Corsair…
Cheers for the offer of help, I have plenty of questions…