ETNZ IACC120 Dual build thread

Hi Dreamwakes…

Thanks for your comments. To be honest I haven’t used a peelply before, I usually succumb to sanding to remove the blush before all the other finishing steps, but wanted to try it based on what I saw at the CCI factory.

I checked quickly this morning on my way out to work and the epoxy set up perfectly. I also pulled a corner of the peelply and it came up pretty easily… I will remove it tonight.

Hi Claudio… You are right, I didn’t put the weave at 45 degrees to the CL… the SE glass roll is only 55 inches wide and I didn’t buy that much cloth :slight_smile:

It worked out fine, only the peelply wrinkled in a few spots. I will certainly consider 45 degrees for the final hull.

Great work Larrykin…

Welcome Lama…

Cheers

Goose

Gidday Goose, you going in leaps & bounds and the natives getting to ya mate, understand the frustration I have very similar issues here in Germany & we have 70 + million people living here :wink:

Just really an update, finished 2 days sanding the mold and now I see need to layup 2 layers of FBG to the hull and sand again … Cluadio my right arm is getting shorter than my left now :stuck_out_tongue:

Btw: looked up the latex …wow !!! found lots unspeakable stuff out there man-o-man they’re really from different gene pool ain’t they :nuts:

Ok layup the mold FBG this afternoon and back into sanding again Friday …bugger

Hey Lamafever, you found heaven man :cool: these are the real thing, so put away those other excuses for yachts in your bath tub and build a real one man :wink:

Hahahaha not so soon my friend. Just bought a plan from Brad Gibson and going to start soon when the plan arrive. Plus nobody is sailing IACC here man … IOM is already darn hard to get people involve. So i guess if i ever build this bugger, it’s gonna be fun sailing only

Ha ha … I hear you lamafever :zbeer:

Claudio, some more learner questions regarding FBG laminating:

  1. I have Epoxy (5:1) with manufacturers pot time of 35 mins, how long should I wait between laminations ?

  2. 4 x 80 gsm lamination, hence roughly 40 grams weight of cloth per lamination, should I mix same weight (40 grams) for Epoxy/harderner for each lamination ?

  3. On your AC 33 build did you lay plastic bag strips over the final lamination only or did you do it also between laminations ?

Cheers K1

Chers
Claudio

Claudio – thanx.
The only “support” for the boom hinge is the “king plank” and 3mm plywood deck. Plus the aluminium base slide assembly screwed to deck. Very strong. Do you want me to post some close-up photos? Sail mat’l is, from memory, ©Icarex Polycarbonate. Bought from Kite Supplies shop. It’s a bit pricey $$.

Claudio – may I have a link to your AC33 build thread, and is there English text?? Sorry no speak Italian :lol:.

Here’s a link to my A Class boat sailing. Clearly shows deck and boom-vangs –

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmql1Rw8VAE

Funny - on YouTube my video is right next to all the IACC120 clips. Watched them last nite. Is it just me or do the boats have a tendency to want to nose-dive on a downwind run? I’m sure at the end of one clip one of the boats is planted nose first in the water :).

Cheers :zbeer:
Larry L.

Hi guys…

Small update today…

laughing at K1’s latex comment You should see my batsuit :batman:

Pic 1: The peelply comes off very easily and leaves not only a beautiful surface but takes all the blush with it… feels like 1200 grit sandpaper.

Pic 2: Interestingly everywhere an air bubble appeared in the peelply, left a low spot where the texture of the cloth can be felt.

Pic 3: 1.5 hours of careful sanding results in a nice key surface.

Pic 4 & 5: I chose to use West 410 filler and made an epoxy slurry which I put on with a squeegy.

Tomorrow I will sand it all off and repeat as necessary.

If like me you have made epoxy glass parts in the past with any old epoxy, do yourself a favour and try the West system… it is awesome.

Cheers! :zbeer:

Goose

PS: All the supporting stuff for this project comes from my local $1 store so it can be done on a budget.

K1W1, i’ve found one supplier locally here, and they make marine epoxy resin and glue. Pot life of the epoxy is around at least 3 hours :slight_smile: really good stuff.
The glue is amazing strong and easy to sand

http://nikawa.net/production1b.htm
http://nikawa.net/production.htm

and it’s reasonably cheap, i’ve got mine for 1kg resin, and 300g hardener
plus 500g glue … it’s less than 10 euro man … i’ve used that on my second Triple Crown and the result is much more better due to the extra long pot life :slight_smile:

Thank you Larry,

If I have understood your question, the tread for the AC33 is just starting from page 5 - message 46 of the “IACC120Cup” discussion, see under New Classes, in english of course.

I appreciate your video as well the music all in the calm water. Very relaxing !

Assuming that all the sailing yachts do have tendency to put the Nose Down under specific circumstancies it is true that with strong gust and choppy water during running the risk exist, without exception, for all boat models. If I’m well informed the pictures you refers to where turned with 18kn and higher gusts. May Matthias better knows.

Cheers
Claudio

Hey Goose … wanna see you in your Batman costume :stuck_out_tongue:

Thanks Lamafever for the tip on 3 hour Epoxy pot life but I have more than I can poke a stick at the moment. Yesterday applied 7 layers of release wax, yes after all that fluffing around with other stuff finally decided to go traditional route :indiffere came down to that I really didn’t trust anything else on my first build.

After 2 days sanding & filling hollows etc. today was lamination day & had lots of little fun, being hands on type the gloves lasted 5 mins, gotta feel the stuff if you know what I mean and it really helped laying the cloth between Laminations using my hands.

After each Lamination, laid FBG cloth over each wet layer and used it to soak up excess epoxy film (kept it to a minimum) then threw it away before starting next layer.

Everything worked out very well & had little epoxy left after each lamination so did not use the anticipated 40 grams mixed for each layer, the scales will tell the story when it’s cured (48 hours)

You’ll see I did not use Latex or the plastic bag film either on the last lamination as I wanted to see that nothing went wrong before it set-off, know I will pay the price with a little more sanding later.

Ok what’s next Claudio … Keel & rudder fins ?

Well it still looks good man :slight_smile: … Post more photos man … after you guys are done i might start mine :slight_smile:

Anyway, i wonder if you guys know anybody who can ship 48" balsa to Malaysia ? I can’t get them locally here, and i don’t wanna glue them up to get the desired length

Please let me know the website so i can order from them.

Gidday K1…

Lookin good, man you are streaking ahead and it looks like the sun is out for your vacation… excellent.

Err… you asked for it :slight_smile:

What are you using to wash the resin off your hands and what did you use for release wax?

Where in the world are you Lama? Splicing or scarfing balsa for longer lengths is a regular practice and will save you money.

Onward ho!

Goose

Hi K1,

ihere : http://iacc120cup.altervista.org/Main0.html

Under plans/projects there is also plans for Appendages an general RC set-up
After the bad experience with the Servo Arm on the AC33 project I will suggest to stick to the Winch type servo.
For the Fin construction I wrote a manual but in Italian- http://www.nonsolovele.com/Tecniche.shtml
the title : Progetto e costruzione di una lama di deriva
The files are in attachment

Cheers
Claudio

PS; To avoid unpleasant remarrks as already occurred, once viewing some drawings on page 4, the intermediate layer of carbon cloth is only used as tracker during sanding and not for increased strenght. Fig 17 & 18 are the results with the black line.

Hi Claudio,

Thanks for the attached information, translation begins this evening :slight_smile:

I have the IACC 120 Appendages PDF, however, they are different when compared to the NZL-92 plans in regard to the cord length at the top of the Keel fin. Appendages says 110 mm and NZL-92 plan says 100 mm , which one should we follow ?

I prefer the the drum winch over the arm anyway & hope you have sorted servo arm, I saw you were making your own drum winch.

Hey Batman your pic had me falling over with laughter … real cool :cool: hand washing just with soap and water & my wax is German made wax paste called “NEUKADUR Trennwachs” made by company called Girrbach near Stuttgart, do you need some ? … we don’t want you cutting up your latex flying suit do we !!!:smiley: :smiley:

Cheers K1 :lol::lol::lol: Batman wonder what he wears when he goes sailing :D:D:D

Hi K1,

with the recent experience on another AC120, I would suggest to use an 100mm wide fin top.
Nevertheless, a wider fin will help to close the wind when close hauled, but the counter part will be an increased wet surface that will reduce performance when running.
Is always a compromise story !

From an established tecnical point of view the appendages surface should correspond to 5.5% max 6.0 % of the sail surface for fast bermuda sailing boats. Multihull may requires only 2%.

Ciao
Claudio

Thanks Claudio, I will go with your recommendation of 100 mm

Hey guys - ONLY AN OBSERVATION - but you began this thread about building two boats and you are already up to 18 pages. From a viewpoint of a former writer/technical editor - you will loose a bunch of readers if you include your personal messages to each other.

A reader wants to read a step-by-step building process, and with a few questions asked and clarified. If you really want to help other builders, and encourage more boats, try to keep the posts concise and to the point - which is building the boats and methods used. As I noted - no problems answering the expected questions that pop up - but trying to stay on track with the initial mission of the building post is difficult.

Again - your thread and only an observation.

Apologies Dick, understandand and thanks for your guidance

Hey - no apologies wanted or expected from you !!!

I just made the suggestion so that the thread is of value and can be easily followed by someone wanting to build one too.

In fact, I debated before posting - and then about deleting my post after.

I want you to be sure I’m not trying to be a super-moderator, and that the observation was my own aimed at improving the thread. For you guys who may have been offended - I offer my sincere apologies. Didn’t mean to step over the line.

Dick

Hi Dick…

Thanks for your observation.

I agree, threads like this very easily get off track with content that others may not be interested in, especially when using it as a step-by-step process to build from, however my intent for this thread is somewhat different.

I wanted to initiate two simultanious builds between countrymen, sharing the trials and tribulations of first time builders, to encourage each other and others who are interested in how we did it, along with the expert guidance of the designer (Claudio) and other seasoned RC yachties (your good self included of course), to keep us on course towards a successful outcome.

Now, if a by-product of this thread is that someone can and does use it to clarify the myriad of issues surrounding a build, and heaven forbid, build from it, then fantastic!

All that to say, thank you, yes I agree with you and will try to keep the less on track content to a minimum for the sake of those mentioned above, but know that in having a little fun with this, silly stuff is bound to surface now and then.

Cheers mate :zbeer:

Goose