Hi Matthias,
I will there as soon as possible my friend, tried to down load the 2010 racing calendar but loads of problems with the down load, can you help ?
Please pass on my regards to Alex, saw video of his NEW Prada hull disguised as an ETNZ …tut tut 
he wants to be 50%Kiwi/ 50% Italian now :lol: but seriously I’m guessing he is wanting a better canoe ?
Any news on Lucas NEW America 33 ?
Cheers Alan
OVER 40000 Visitors !!!
May be a forum record ?
Claudio
Alan,
you can find the regattas calendar here:
http://iacc120cup.altervista.org/calendarioregate.html
I saw in water the new ETNZ, probably NZL-103 will be its name, (Luna Rossa A version, Claudio Diolaiti project). It is wonderful , now he is painting it with the colors of ETNZ used in Auckland for the LV throphy.
I tested the boat and it goes fast with perfect balancing.
I’m making a new boat too, a new Alinghi SUI-100, to defend the IACC 120 CUP Roma. Today I ended the stucco work of the hull, I hope next week to test it in water.
I think that Alessandro after the ETNZ construction, will make America 3. Luca will wait for a new boat the Alessandro work, and he knows that his Shosholoza RSA-09 is yet the faster boat, he doesn’t have haste.
We will wait you when you want!
Cheers
Matth
Thanks for the 2010 calendar Matthias, I will check it with my business travel schedule and find best dates & let you know which events I’ll come to. Wow !! …everyone’s building new hulls, competition getting stronger, looking forward to seeing everyone’s improvements.
On subject of hull deco, I’m following L.V inspired graphics from 2009 race with white deck, Auckland being my home town I liked to have a little home flavour. With Alex using LV 2010 graphics at least we will be able to tell difference between our boats on the water.
Spent last couple of days studying different rig configurations and quickly came to the conclusion not to follow big boat set-ups as the scaling of wind forces are not fully relevant to model boats.
Not fully understanding all the dynamics involved, Lester Gilbert site http://www.onemetre.net/Build/Build.htm provides some very good information albeit related to IOM’s. The U.S One Meter Construction Guide http://www.theamya.org/boats/us1m/pdf/us1mconst.pdf (read from page 33 to 65) this is the most comprehensive info I could find on the net. Pages 64-65 “Main & Jib Trim interaction” gave me the best food for thought, but no answers to my questions.
Next decided to use the old adage when in doubt “copy the fast guys” so started studying photo’s of top IOM’s, US One Meters and of course IACC 120 boats and bingo ! … found something they seem to have generally in common with their rigs.
Almost all top boats use only one shroud which is attached between 80-90% up the mast (not top of mast) once again variations depend on whether the mast step is on the deck or clamped (mast ram) below deck.
Only one spreader is used, length seems to be approx 60-70% of beam. Lesters site has interesting topic on spreader length. (Narrow vs Wide
Jib Stay attachment (hounds) is approx 80% of mast (dependant on sail plan)
The one spreader is positioned at halfway between mast step and the Jib stay attachment
With this being my first scratch build I need to gather experience from learning on the water, but this is my starting point for testing which also provides the benefit of being the lightest rig configuration to begin with. I will be using alloy masts to start and make changes between my two boats before switching over to final CF masts.
Cheers Alan
Hi Alan,
I observed the drawing referring to the full boat & rig as well your remarks.
I must says that the 80% is referred to the lenght of the main sail, while, according to my understanding the single spreader is at 60% of the height between the mast step up to de schroud attachment . It may sort out that using the hound as the height reference, it could be 50% .
So nice to see you so active now that the winter is gone !
Ciao
Claudio
Thanks for the guidance Claudio, I will change my reference point to the hounds.
Not much progress today, just giving base paint a chance to harden before start masking and painting hull deco & waiting for it to become a little warmer before glassing the CF sheet over main boom
Just read your comments on 40,000, makes me wonder how many other IACC 120 builds have been taken place since we started ? love to hear about others and maybe post a photo here too … would be great to hear from you 
Saw Jim’s sailing with on board camera … really cool stuff !
Cheers Alan
Interesting analisys Alan. Honesty I don’t know what is the perfect solution. I have 3 boats with 3 differents solutions and all work well. Alan, a curiosity: did you joint to IACC forum?
Cheers Matth
I have tried three different types of narrow (20mm wide) masking tape and even slit the tape down to 10 mm wide and still cannot get smooth tight curved lines, appears the masking tape lacks elasticity … any tips from anyone ?
Cheers Alan
Alan -
if you want the tape to be painted over, then removed for the hull color to be the thin line, try some automotive “pin-stripe” tape. It is vinyl based - not paper and is easier to curve. For very tight curves and specialty designs, you can lay down the “green” auto painters tape, ink on your design and then freehand cut out the design. This tapes sticks better than the blue or white tape, yet doesn’t want to peel off previous paint colors if they have been allowed to dry.
Here are photos of motorcycle helmet I did for my grandson a few years ago when he first started riding. Much was cut out like a stencil and sprayed. In some of the artwork, I might have used 3-4 stencils, but most are hand cut. Some of the very fine lines were done with two razor blades taped together with a shim between to make the width of the line… and some lines were simply hand drawn using a very fine “Sharpie” marker. If you must cover some paint for a second color, you can use “Frisket” stencil paper - or clear “Contact” shelf liner paper so you can see through it to previous paint design.
Good luck - but do try the vinyl tape as I think it will OK - just don’t stretch too much as it can pop off the surface in the middle of the painting.
Dick
Claudio, you asked about my mast, and it’s weight problem. Here is the breakdown.
Mast - 182.5 1.710 Meters. Includes joiner carbon tube (1 m section of carbon) and small
carbon in base to mate to mast step.
Gooseneck/vang - 23.7g
Mast head crane - 12g
Spreaders - 4 @ 5.1 g = 24 g
Wire shrouds + ends = 20 g
turnbuckles each 1.6 g *9 = 14.4g
Jib boom and stuff - 14g
Jib connection on mast 3.2g (brass strap)
boom 33.9 g
Totalling about 330 g.
I know I can do better on the gooseneck/vang (it is a home made design) and based on the discussions I’ve seen above, I likely have too many spreaders and such. Alan, I’m not too concerned about the turnbuckles as they are 1.6 g each.
It seems my mast is 20 or 30 grams heavier than your sample predicts. I have available only 1 meter length of carbon, so the joint is made with about 150 mm carbon tube inside the 10mm piece. Jib boom is 6mm carbon with fuel line clamps as the connection points.
Looks like I screwed up Alan’s thread some how. My apologies, as I was trying to “quote” your question about tape and it looks like I replaced some of your text with mine. Not sure how that happened. Perhaps Chad (administrator) can restore. Never happened to me before.
Hi Mike,
thank you very interesting r
here in attachment a couple of rigs used experimentally on the AC33, one is the reproduction of a classic Class M with an additional jib boom used as a support beam and the other is a classic AC120 rig. The idea was to compare the two rig’s performances on the same hull.
Having said that, the typical class M rig of 2250mm tall is averaging 310g all in.
Just a remark, my transition joints are much shorter in the order of 8 cm , 4 cm both sides
Cheers
Claudio
Thanks Dick, I will try the vinyl tape, no worries about the prevouis post, I’ve had few problems with the new GUI, seems tempermental or I’m getting older !!
Matthias tried the IACC forum with sign on “p” for English password but when your in the forum it asks for another password & I got lost.
Cheers Alan
Hi Alan,
in the IACC120 forum, the password ‘p’ is for general access to avoid spams, instead if you wish to be" registered" and participate to discussions, you need to insert your’ pseudo’ and your ‘password’. Obviously in the first page, you have the choice among 3 languages.
That’s all
Ciao
Claudio
Thanks Claudio …finally managed to sign on
Welcome back Alan, great to see your build spring back into action.
Gary
Hull Deco Painting & Logo’s finished … next finish the rigging (unfortuntely on business travel next 10 days)
Claudio your design is a real pleasure on the eye …enjoy the pics
Cheers Alan
Well Done Alan!
Now, how did you do the logos?
Mike
Thanks Mike … Logo’s were done by local sign writer using plotter which has extremely fine knife programmed that follows vector files (I learnt that Bitmaps files can’t be used) .
Firstly went onto site http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/ which has just about all major brand logos in vector format and download what I needed. A few files were not available so I found bitmap versions and traced them using CorelDraw 5 (free software download) spend about 30 mins learning how use the program and then traced the logo’s, next send them off to signwriter via e-mail and he cleaned up my traced vectors (I need move practice) and them he outputted them.
Adhesive film which is cut with fine knife that has backing paper with adhesive over-lay. Just peel off the backing paper and position logo’s then peel off adhesive over-lay…done ! All up cost 50 Euro’s. Only thing using this type of adhesive film is that you can only have singular colours which there is a wide range available.
Cheers Alan
Hi Allan,nice work you’ve done.Happy to see that you are back.Here in Canada,one more month to wait before being able to go sailing,so long winter.So long Gilles
Hi Alan,
very nice to see this ‘unique’ work.
Bravo !!!
Claudio