… I’m sold, and so are my other Victory team mates as well. We are looking into building a few here in Valencia!.. Watch out for a SWE 96 soon! (or more…)
Cheers,
Jim
Hi all… A quick question
I noticed on the IACC 120 website, in the photos that some builders are putting the rudder post linkage above deck and some below. It seems to me the above deck would allow for easier rudder removal, no chance of water infiltration through the rudder tube, and fewer mechanical elements under the deck where it might be harder to reach. I suppose the advantage of putting it under the deck is simply looks? Is that about right?
Mike
Yes you have right!
Perfect job made by Marcel from Switzerland and beautifull images
Hmmm… Sailboat **** (rhymes with corn). Being new to this, I have to wonder, how was the sheeting run to keep it all below deck? The sail winch etc, must be aft. I like having only the one hatch cover, but what, if anything is inaccessable in the bow section? having just done my first ever carbon layup on my rudder and fin, I have to appreciate the excellent workmanship! Well done Marcel. I really like how all the edges have a nice smooth rounded over appearance.
Hi, here below one possible solution
Cheers
Claudio
Marcel, this is a beautiful looking AC120 congratulations on a wonderful job …very professional !!
Cheers Alan
Just wondering…
I am about to build up a boom, for the main, and was wondering how to deal with outhaul adjustment. (assuming I get my terminology correct). It looks to me that Marcel has a fixed attacment point at the clew? If I’m going to have a simialrily shaped boom, can I or should I have the clew attacment adjustable?
Mike
I suggest you to use the same vang used on IOM class, enough easy to find.
Cheers
Matth
Hi Mike,
you will find every thing you need here, a bible plenty of suggestions a guide of 62 pages, see pages 41/42 : http://www.theamya.org/boats/us1m/pdf/us1mconst.pdf
Cheers
Claudio
Hello Everyone,
Winter is over here in Germany (I think) … well at least temperatures creeping above zero degrees (5-10 currently) and time to come out hibernation to finish my two ETNZ IACC 120’s.
This week managed to close the hull, took 4 days for the epoxy to cure and then put primer down and start preparing for painting hull graphics, decided to do graphics by myself (masking and painting) as cost to have it down professionally was too high ranging from 200-300 Euro.
While waiting for warmer painting temperatures, I will start assembling and building the complete rigging, had two failed attempts at making booms and was not happy as they turned out too heavy and overly complicated. This time I like to have main outhaul on a screw adjustment inside the boom as seen on many of Italian boats.
Inspired by the ETNZ win over Mascalone (Italy) in the LV Trophy held in Auckland recently, hopefully I will have everything complete in next 2-3 weeks, and joining up with Matthias, Alex, Luca and others in Italy to hopefully have similar Kiwi/Italian tradition as the big boats, with IACC 120’s :drink:
Cheers Alan
P.S Claudio any progress on Lucas NEW America 3 build ?
Good to see you back at it!
“This time I like to have main outhaul on a screw adjustment inside the boom as seen on many of Italian boats”
Care to elaborate? I cannot quite picture that!
I too have tried a few booms. My current favourite is one made with 2 lengths of 6mm carbon tube, with 1x6 mm carbon “stick” on the top and bottom, then epoxied together to make a rectanguar cross section. A little heavier than balsa/carbon sandwich, but very stiff, and provides for an excelent mating to the ball joint pivot (goose neck?). 31 g. I think my whole Rig is going to come in on the heavy side, as I have made the mast Claudio spoke of early in this thread - 2 tubes and a dremel! I should be able to weigh the whole rig minus the sails tonight.
Mike
Hi Mike,
Attached is a photo of Alessandro Strappaghetti latest ETNZ I took during my short visit to IACC event (hope you don’t mind Alex)
If you look carefully at the end of the main boom you can see that the clew is attached to small white (aircraft servo clevis) mounting which has a long threat inside the boom, you can see the slot cut in the boom for travel adjustment. Outhaul is adjustment made by simply turning the knob on end of the boom provides precision adjustment without traditional bowsie set-up.
I had used 6mm carbon tube with balsa/carbon sandwich, unfortunately I cannot find clevis to fit inside 6mm carbon tube, needed to move up to 8mm diameter and that will be a very tight fit. I will start making this set-up over the weekend and post some photo’s of the assembly. My target weight for main boom is 25 grams.
Hey impressed that you made your own carbon mast, can you post photo ? For short term I have to use alloy mast as I can’t find carbon masts in Germany and will get some from TD Models next time I’m in Italy. Fitting vang to airfoil shape mast is little challenge, due to the groove, but will work something out.
Cheers Alan
Ah, that’s cool. I found very little on the net about boom building.
Don’t be too impressed with my mast. I think it turned out wonderfully, and I have been able to build and put spreaders on easily by drilling through the balsa instead of the carbon, but the total rig weight, including everything but paint and sails is coming in at 330 g (74dm plan). For the mast I used FG instead of carbon, as I am still learning about this stuff, and I find carbon difficult to work with. Than and I only have 1 weight of carbon, as I choose not to afford to buy a yard each of several weights! I wrapped the mast in 2 layers of 3 oz glass, which was difficult enough, then I used heatshrink tubing to pull it tight for the cure.
Let’s see if I can add picture: Upper part of the mast, and a close up of my prototype section of mast…The prototype is a little messy, as I have not sanded it and have beat it around some. Notice the small holes in the side. That is for the spreader post.
Welcome back Alan !
Hope to see Goose to.
Cheers
Claudio
PS: Have you seen the last Strapaghetti’s Luna Rossa ? Actually will be named NewZealand : http://www.iacc120cup.altervista.org/Main0.html
Hi Mike,
Great job on your mast, I like it ! A good reference is Lester Gilberts site http://www.onemetre.net/Build/Build.htm you will find lot of info to help us learners.
Be careful putting turnbuckles high up the mast as putting weight up high will work against keel.
Cheers Alan
Hi Mike,
I’m very interested about your mast, please could you tell some more as for instance the 330g are obtained ?
I’m interested because I have made some samples trials plus a non finished yet sail mast. Here some pictures with data but I still miss the others unknone masses as spreaders and cables :
all the best
Claudio
PS : one of my readings “design of sailing yacht” of P. Gutelle shows this page about mast profiles, obviously the profile 6 is the best :
I think you will find that any mast shape that is fixed to centerline of hull will display a lot of leeward side turbulence just behind the mast/sail connection point. Trying to determine the one with least turbulence along the leeward side is not easy, and would suggest following the general big-boat mast shapes where possible. I recall reading/seeing information where an improvement is made by using a round mast with main sail luff slightly behind (not tight to) the mast, allowing air flow between mast and sail - almost like a flap. By far, the easiest way to reduce the turbulence (and improve power) is to allow the mast to rotate into the apparent wind, and let the leewards side of the sail take on an extended flow from the shape of the mast. I assume you/ve noticed that there are few new boats with the mainsail affixed along the length of the boom (except for roller furling on some cruising boats) in order to allow the entire main to take on it’s optimum shape.
Hi Claudio, great to be back into again, Alex built a Luna Rossa Hull wow ! he had only just finished his other modified ETNZ hull when I last saw him (Oct 09) wonder why ? Further any updates on Luca’s NEW America 33 build ?
Had productive day today, started out cutting out the groove at the bottom of the mast to allow the goose neck to fit into the mast, those small 1 mm bolts are a pain to get in, but fits well.
Next cut up an old rubber beach sandal and glued it to the bow then dremel’d it into shape for nice bumper shape, had a small accident sanding piece of my thumb away in the process…ouch !
Then turned to making prototype boom (my 3rd attempt) this time using 8 mm CF tube and cutting 45 mm slot to accommodate a threaded outhaul adjustment using plastic clevis with 3 mm SS thread going through its base.
Fiddly part is getting a circlip to hold thread in place and to glue in small centering washers to maintain alignment of the thread inside of the boom tube, however, it is worth the effort as this is as a better alternative to using line & bowsie adjustment for outhaul adjustment.
Weather still very cold so will need to wait a little while before I can epoxy the lower boom with balsa covered with CF.
Next cut the masts to length and then laid it out using 74 sail suit to start measuring and checking positioning (as per ETNZ plan B) well do the same for 78 suit tomorrow.
During my winter hibernation you can see that I put the graphics on the sails using Edding permanent markers, I was quite happy with the result and also saved more money not having to get graphics printed. Found helpful tip if you make mistake with the permanent marker on plastic surfaces, just use little WD-40 and it wipes the mistake away easily … cool stuff.
Now I need to do some more home work to figure out 1) how many spreaders to put on the mast two or three? and in which position up the mast ? 2) how wide should spreaders be ? 3) should there be one or two shrouds ? (upper & lower) and whether I should have 4) a diamond shroud support the upper part of the mast ? … any ideas are welcome please !
Cheers Alan
Wellcome Alan!!!
Great work! Wheh we will meet again with our boats? I hope soon!!!
Matth