Was it Mr. Thorley’s design specifically, from his plans?
Yes the only thing I did different was use some parts that were available form home depot that were almost the same thing used in the plans. Nylon Spacer 1" long 3/8" OD x .171" ID pk of 2 $.60 and some set screws. Rods and wire from Hobby town. Plus parts from the plan I already had at home. Byron
Received my first request from France which was submitted in French, so I responded in French. Hope he can read it.
Oh, I should mention that I cheated and used Google Translate to convert languages.
Hey Frank, just a quick note to say thank you for your quick response to my request for information.
I have been having a bit of a study and hope to make my version shortly.
Best wishes, Ian.
Hi Frank!
A Thank you from Holland as well.
Just received your plans. Studying them at this moment. Your T-pieces is indeed ingenious.
As I only have experience with my Flatfoot/Papaya “Duff Beer” I have some questions. Hope to solve them when I re-read the text.
My first question: am I right that the mast goes to the left side of your picture?
Keep you informed on my progress!
Wim
Yes to your question Wim, 4 mn carbon fits 3/32" steel rod perfectly and in my opinion, is better than bike spoke.
And thank you for nice comment.
AH, OK!
Now I think I get it.
On the left side (up) you place the “mast” on the right side you slide the “boom” over the rod?
How did you prevent the “boom” from sliding to the left?
Wim
Hi Wim
Hobby shops have a small collett with set screw that can be used or simply let it rest agqinst the nylon /delrin piece. Sail outhaul tension keeps it from sliding to the right.
Right!
I begin to see the light at the end of the tunnel!
Clever idea (well, to me that is. Maybe this is used by more people, but I am a newby in (RC)sailing. No newby in RC. Have made several electric powered boats in the past.)
I am now working on the hull of my Razor. (Just glued some panels together, not finished yet)
Want to finish the hull first, then will order the fiber rods etc.
Wim
How about a couple pieces of tight silicone fuel hose or a couple rubber grommets? They work well on the Kittiwake rigs I have, and on the varnished wood spars, don’t slip. Collet grub screws like to dig holes in wood or carbon spars, and I will only use them on metal rods.
It is time to give a little update on the T-Rig. Over 600 respondents have visited the Tanglewoodmyc website (http://www.tanglewoodmyc.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=37&Itemid=100) with limited requests for information from most corners of the globe and the USA and I have found some very nice new friends in the process. Thank you. I have responded with an email to all requestors within a few days depending on my PC access to the internet at the time as I don’t have a permanent link. A few individuals have indicated that they did not have adequate equipment to build a T-Rig and asked if I would build one for them. A metal lathe and other shop equipment makes the process of machining parts easier.
It turns out the the United States Post Office will ship a unit in their standard bubble pack for a total of just over $3.00 within the USA and deliveries have typically arrived in just a few days. At this time, I am only responding to requests within the USA as I am not sure how to handle this on an international basis. I only build one for each request (at a modest cost) hoping that seeing a unit will have them building additional units by themselves. The units are hand build by me one at a time and I have other actions items (3 rental properties) to complete during my short stay in Michigan during the Summer.
I hope to soon generate some additional information on the T-Rig and will email this information to all that put in the initial request. So, keep an eye on your inbox for an update.