You mean like this? 
Done around the 1/16 wire mandrel as shown. Since the tube is not pinched closed, the wrinkles don’t matter. Actually, I prefer my “racetrack” method because it avoids having to run the sheets around tight turns.
Cheers,
Earl
WOW !
I guess one could suggest the wrinkles mean the mainsheet is riding on only the high points, thus reducing friction - right ? :graduate:
Will do some experimenting tonight.
Could be. Remember the caution about fire.
Cheers,
Earl
Right Earl - I recall a past issue with DuPont and Teflon coated cooking pans. Seems ( as I recall) there are minute particles given off when Teflon exceeds 500+ degrees and these particles can embed in the lungs if inhaled with latent toxic results. I think it was on 20/20 or 60 Minutes, but they tested Teflon coated pans and found heating one for frying bacon easily surpassed the limit of the 500 degrees, so wife and I kind of ended the use of open frying pans that were coated. She still uses pots in which she may boil or cook - but anything used as a “dry” surface for cooking has since been removed from our kitchen. or those needs, (steaks, eggs, pancakes, etc.) we have reverted back to good old cast iron. Of course, we probably will die of too much iron in our bodies - I guess you can’t win.
Regardless - a good time to remind others of the potential toxic danger.
While waiting for some epoxy to kick-off tonight, I added some hull graphics to the grandson’s boat hull. Photo attached.
Hi:
I use 1/8" soft copper tube from K&S or 1/8" brass tube with the tube bender from Dubro to make my sheet loop. Then I epoxy it over the deck. It works for my IOMs too.
stay well.
Tato Lazo
One of the horror stories they told at the Armed Forces Soldering Center was about a pipe smoker who had a bit of teflon insulation fly into the bowl of his pipe when it was sitting in an ashtray. He took a puff and gassed himself severely – so much so (and remember, this is a GI story :-)) that they had to pull an old VA doc out of retirement to oversee his treatment. Nobody had seen anything like that since 1918.
Cheers,
Earl
Tato -
I had tried the 1/8 copper. In fact I have a piece I am temporarily using as a winch arm while I experiment with arm movement versus power and multiple purchase.
I didn’t know Dubro had a bender - and will have to make a quick research. All I had was a 1/4" spring type bender and I couldn’t get the 180 degree radius - copper kinked as spring inside diameter was too large. Thanks for the idea of where to look.
Dick,
You might try inserting a copper wire snug inside the tube prior to bending. It should keep it from kinking.
Bill
I use 1/8 or 3/32 brass or aluminum. Anneal the brass by heating it to red heat. Anneal aluminum by holding it in a candle til it’s covered in soot. Then use a small torch to just burn the soot off- go carefully or it will melt. Crimp one end of the tube and fill it with dry, fine sand. Crimp the other end. I use socket wrenches to bend it around. Cut the crimped end off and tap the tube til the sand falls out. I have managed less than 1/4" radius.
Don
Hi Dick:
Take a look to this solution.
Maximo - is that just a block attached to the rudder tube to turn the mainsheet around?
Bill - Don - Tato … I went ahead and found and ordered a Dubro 1/8" tubing bender as I can see uses for it to bend tubing to route mainsheet under then up directly to the main boom and jib boom. Cost was under $8.00 plus shipping.
Thanks also for the hints of getting brass and aluminum soft. Same process for copper I would assume - heat up and then let air cool - not a quench if I recall correctly?
It doesn’t matter, if your’re in a hurry-quench. Quenching only seems to matter when hardening steel. Annealling is different. Yes same for copper. Quenching will sometimes result in a cleaner piece. I guess the thermal shock knocks the scale off.
Don
SWEET !!!
The 1/8 inch tubing bender just arrived from DuBro (Part # 785 @ $7.49 plus shipping). It says it will handle 1/16 - 1/8 - 3/32 brass, aluminum and copper that is “soft” - not hard.
It sure makes quick work of the thru-deck, 180 degree bend for the RG-65 main-sheet and I can see where a 90 degree bend could be used to route main-sheets up and through the deck for jib and main boom.
Now, a copper or brass washer with 1/8 inch diameter hole, some silver solder and it will replicate the $16.00 items with exception of chrome…although that would also be a possibility.
Thank you for the tip on this tool !
Dick:
I really was using standar brass tube 1/8" for the 180º ( “U” shape) fitting that lead the sheet out of the deck and back to the main and jib booms from the rear of the boat.
I guess the piece should be strong enought after bending to take the tension of the sheet. Some people install the U half over and half below the deck, i just epoxy them flat on the deck with the external portion of the “U” 15mm long or so. This is used in 7 IOms right now and no problems detected.
Hope this can help.
look at the sketch…for the red piece.
Tato Lazo
Nice tool to have is that one… if u use brass tubes…
For me, the ink plastic tubes from the BIC pens is more than enough… just insert a piece of copper wire that matches the inner diameter, bend it as desired, then apply some heat with a candle or lighter, take the wire out, cut as desired, then… job done!!
Maybe this weekend i’ll put some pictures of my new RG in here…
Cheers!!!
German
Tato & German - not sure if I posted before, but think I did - here is the redirection that I made for Hull #1
Electrical wire insulation, balsa sides, and Epoxy/micriballoons for filler - half above and half below deck. Problem (sort of) was the time required to fabricate and then wait for epoxy to cure, then final shape. With the bender - it is bent and over and done in mere seconds.
Question: If you put wire inside the plastic pen tube - heat and bend - doesn’t the wire removal want to bend the plastic back into a somewhat straight tube - or do you use stranded copper wire?
Haven’t tried that method.
Dick:
I made the first pices in the early boats the way you describe for the picture, later i moved to the brass1/8" tube, this way you could make 5 pieces in the same time you made one of the other plastic tube and blasa sides.
Cheers.
Tato
Hi Roadtoad,
I have sent you a private message.
I elected to use a Hitec 645MG servo as a winch for the RG and found that the longest arm provided didn’t give me enought sheet travel. I made up a temporary arm (longer) and it gave me sheet travel but insufficent torque. I then went to four AA Alakaline batteries and torque improved a bit over the 4 NiMH batteries I was using for the receiver.
By moving to a 5 battery Nicad pack, I think I will have the desired 6 volts and maximum torque of 133 oz. in. for the servo. I am sending the servo in for modifications to ServoCity. For $10 they will modify a standard servo to go from 90 degree arm movement to 180 degrees. (You can also send them servos to modify to continuous rotation - clockwise or counterclockwise). I am hoping that when returned, the added arm rotation plus the added voltage up from 4.8 to 6 volts will eliminate my sheeting issues. If not, I can still revert to a 2:1 sheeting arrangement under-deck if I need to.
:graduate: Thought I would post this suggestion for Hitech servo modification by ServoCity at a very reasonable cost (for a non-electrical person). You can also purchase the servos from them pre-modified. Not sure if they do Futaba brands.
I looked at the ServoStretcher at $19.00 (U.S.) and the only benefit (which I didn’t need) is that little plug-in gem will allow you to set both end points and the middle point if you need a difference in travel on each side of neutral/middle. Since I always run my winch arms from end to end, I didn’t need this device.
If the 180 modification works, I will send in the other three boat winches too.
Hi: Try the GWS 1T sail winch, it is cheap and strong enought, easy to instal . around $11.00 in many shops.
Tato Lazo