I’ve set up this thread for all designers to publish their plans for Footy builders worldwide. Please post them as replies to this thread.
Thanks…Bill H
Here’s Brett McCormack’s BobAbout in .dwg format for CAD systems. Of course, his rig plan could be used on any Footy design (I use it on Halfpint.)
Thanks, Brett…Bill H
Here’s a couple of Bill Hagerup’s Hullform files. The Student Version is available for free download at Hullform.com.
Bill H
Here’s my latest Footy!!
I call it Razor. It’s intended to be easy to build, so it’s a chine design, but I don’t think its performance will suffer. I expect it to be a stable boat that is stiff enough to carry more sail than my Halfpint.
I built the hull you see in 3 hours. I spray glued the plans to some 1/32 balsa sheet and cut out the panels with a scissors. Then I taped the hull together and superglued the seams. It got a bit tricky at the bow when I glued my fingers to the hull…but all worked out in the end.
If you would like a set of plans, email me billhagerup@hotmail.com and give me your snailmail address. I’ll send you a set within a reasonable amount of time. If you have a copy of the FreeShip design program, I can email the FreeShip file to you, and you can print the plans yourself.
The only thing I want out of it is feedback on Razor’s performance from any of you who build her.
Happy Footy sailing…Bill
Here’s an update on Razor.
Wis set up the forum so we can share FreeShip files now, so I’ve attached it (the .fbm file) for those of you who know the program. Open the file, go to Tools, click Develop Plates, and then print from there. If you select one or two plates at a time, they fit nicely on 81/2 by 14 paper.
I’ve also attached the Hullform version (the .hud file) which could be used if you want to build it on stations.
I gave Razor a coat of epoxy (in and out) then added fin, rudder, radio gear. Just have to put in mast tubes and replace the back deck and she’ll be ready for the paint shop. I’m trying to get her done this week so I can test her before the lake freezes (snow forecast for Thanksgiving.)
Is anybody using Hulls? If so, I could probably take a few minutes to convert Bill’s design into Hulls format too. With Hulls you can also print the panels (like Freeship). Might do this for myself - I like your design Bill.
Muzza - do you (or anyone else know) if either program will allow you to develop panels that would be “bent” to shape? I know that hard chine panels can be printed flat, but I am wondering about compound bending?
I am thinking (not to hijack the post) about a compound bent panel of thin ply for a set of multihull hulls. It is done in big boats, but can’t find any technical info - and just wondering if anyone using either of these programs has seen anything in the instructions on use?
Thanks
Dick
I’ve replied under a new thread in the General Discussion forum.
The response to my Razor plan has been great. It’s good to know there will be a some Razors sailing next season.
I know that its simplicity is part of the appeal…for me, too. But if you’d like a more complicated project, here’s one for you.
I call it “Ode to Roger” because it is based on the Marblehead designs of the legendary Roger Stollery of the UK, who has been working with Brett and I this summer on Footy topics. I designed it to poke fun at him a bit, but it turned out the joke was on me when I saw how well balanced it is, with low wetted surface and drag numbers that look really competitive.
But I’m just not sure I’m ambitious enough to do a two-piece mold…
So if any of you have too much time on your hands, go for it! And paint it to look like the old Oscar Meyer Weiner!!!
Bill
p.s. I also posted a couple more Razor pics. They prove she floats! The first shows the location of the radio gear, the second shows how she is intended to balance…the point at the bow and 2 stern points all just touching the water.
Pssst Bill -
I think your anchor chain has become disconnected with your boat ! :icon_smil
Highly observant Dick…no wonder it wouldn’t sit still for the photos!
Of course, for a minute there I thought you were poking fun at my high-tech float box there in the laundry room. I have another one for larger boats in the upstairs bathroom, but it can’t handle the draft of modern fins in the development classes. If I ever remodel that bathroom, I’ll be sure to fix that problem.
Bill
Anyone have any ideas ? Our firewall here at work won’t let me bring executable files into the system and I have no way to rename the original before download so I can add word ese after it arrives. Dial up at home is ---- well, SLOW !
Hi Bill,
I’m almost done with the assembly of two Razors (thanks for posting the plans), it took me a little longer than 3 hours but I’m finally done.
Anyway, I have a couple of questions regarding the keel and mast. The first one is: where is the keel located and how do you build it (you shape some balsa)? And, more importantly what are the dimensions you use? My local hobby store sells small helicopter blades (the back rotor ones could be perfect as rudder, a little on the small side, but light and cheap – 2 for 6$) that could be used as keels. They are a little on the thick side (and maybe to short) but I could get a pair for 16$ (by the way the same stores sells home made airplane – yes they are big on flying RC – drop shaped canopies that could be used as molds for the bulb.
The last question I have is on the mast location, how far back from the bow?
Thanks for your help.
Gio
I just finished putting together a razor hull (thanks, mudhenk) and for some reason it was a 1/2 inch too long! :what: And that’s with the slightly reversed transom. I will have to cut some off the bow and put in a balsa block or something. Maybe sand a little off the transom.
Could you offer us a layout of the radio gear? The mast is in a block at the bottom, and a plank glued to the underside on thew deck? What did you use to mount the servos? Looks like a bulkhead of a kind. I couldn’t really tell in the pictures from your float tank. Also, what would you suggest for a deck with a cabin on it?
thx
Sorry about the delayed reply…didn’t see your posts until now.
Gio, starting mast position should be about 5" back from the bow. Optimal position is something that usually takes experimentation, and depends on the CE of your sailplan.
Fin position should be based on the positon of all the gear in the boat. put everything in (sails and all, or equivalent weights in correct positions) then float the boat with the bulb inside the hull where you think it should go. Adjust the bulb position until the boat sits on her lines properly. Mark the bulb position. Install the fin so that the bulb aligns with your mark.
I make my fins from basswood about 3/16" thick, sanded to a wing shape. I don’t think balsa is stiff enough. Based on Brett’s recommendation, try 6" long.
For both you and Tomo, I suggest using the sailplan and radio gear layout from Brett’s BobAbout. Since the displacement of both boats is 500 grams, the sailplan works fine on both.
Other than those suggestions, I leave radio gear, deck layout, etc. for you to play with. Part of the fun is making your own boat unique. Apparently it dissapoints some people that my plans aren’t completely detailed. That’s because I’m not in the plans business. I just share what I make for myself. The design software that I use helps design the hull, but it doesn’t make construction plans. I position radio gear, build the fin and rudder, and determine mast position based on whim and trial and error.
Have fun…Bill
hanks Bill!:jump2:
I figured the same about mounting the keel & all ( need a bigger float box), but I want to use Brett’s stayless rig design, which means that you’ll be drilling a new hole every time you want to try to move the mast, plus gluing the mast tube in the new position would make a mess:what: Unless you built a second hull.
For what the Footy is about, I think they should ALL have stayless rigs!:biglaugh:
thx
Hey Tomohawk,
I always put in three or four mast tubes, so I can adjust for wind conditions and different rigs.
Instead of drilling a bunch of holes for the pin on the bow, I made a sort of fence out of 1/4" by 1/16" basswood and glued it to the deck so that the pin is held in place without penetrating the deck surface. It’s kind of a very narrow open-top box, just wide enough for the pin to fit. That way, I can move the rig and don’t have a bunch of holes leaking water.
Bill
Bill,
I don’t understand what you mean by “drilling a bunch of holes for the pin on the bow.” The stayless rig only needs a mast tube, right?
I would probably put in a few mast tubes at the start, but I’d only leave the one in the best spot later.
thx
Take another look at the plans.I tried to explain this in one of my PMs to you but obviously failed.
The mast does not pivot like a swing rig.It is fixed on the centreline with a 1/16th s/s pin through the forward dowel( I like to call this the forespar for want of a better term)
This pin ensures the rig is locked in place on the hull . The bueaty of all this is that the whole rig including all attacment points etc can be easily removed from the hull. I call it "Plug and play’
[quote]I call it “Ode to Roger” because it is based on the Marblehead designs of the legendary Roger Stollery of the UK, who has been working with Brett and I this summer on Footy topics. I designed it to poke fun at him a bit, but it turned out the joke was on me when I saw how well balanced it is, with low wetted surface and drag numbers that look really competitive.
But I’m just not sure I’m ambitious enough to do a two-piece mold…
So if any of you have too much time on your hands, go for it! And paint it to look like the old Oscar Meyer Weiner!!!
Bill [quote]
My previous post design should be credited to Bill Hagrup, well done mate.
I have drawen up the plans as best I could from your post.:crazy:
I must be one of those with to much time on my hands.:sleep1: