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getting close to paint. transom and fwd bulkhead left, and then shroud chain plates.
Hull with servo mounts and bumper 655 grams
Servos/rx. 100 grams
Rudder 35 grams
Battery 120 grams
A rig 325
Keel 2495
Corrector weights 270
This does not include paint.
It will get splashed on Sunday
.
it sailed…
corrector weight are at the keel, and they are too far forward. transom was out of the water almost 1/2" so I’ll swap corrector weights with the battery and see how that works out…
but it took on water as well. so I need to find that. not much wind so i’m thinking bow, keel or rudder.
found some pin holes, about half a dozen or so. looked to be a result of over zealous sanding rather than poor layup. Looks like I gotta slap some primer on it first before the next wet run.
Nicely done.
Did I spot you using a keyboard stand for the line up of the keel and rudder?
Nap.
It was a throw-away at work. so I re purposed it. Its also my painting stand. I put some seat belt webbing on it works fine. uit does’nt have the rubber feet on it so I put a small sandbag on the leg to make it a bit more stable when its holding a boat. just nice to be able to work on a boat thats at work bench height…
its still has the sticker on it. its a ks7190 singlex
with the webbing on it I only have two available height positions, but its very functional for what I’m using it for. knowing that these can be had for less than 30 bucks It would be a great addition to a work shop… and in place of the webbing you could just tie a couple small ropes, like paracord to make a soft sling to hold the hull so its not resting on the cross bars. Its just barely deep enough to hold the iom with the keel on it…
go back and look at th epic in post 94 you can see the stand (lower right corner) also doubles as an end support for my building board. one end of the board is clamped to the work bench and the other end is supported by the keyboard stand…
I have also found the the tall skinny trash cans work well for supporting boats for the purposes of painting rigging, ect… I keep hoping that at work one day I’ll find a suitable vessel for creating a float tank…
first coat of primer and sanding… a light coat today and more sanding prior to color…
its orange…
Sweeeeeet
so her is the b boat with a drawn on LWL. Its sitting about 1 cm down with the transom just barely touching this is with trim weigh full aft and battery behind the keel. so good for light air. but no good for heavy air.
take a look at the bulb. it look slike it really far forward on the fin. I’m thinking if I cut in a new fin slot and move the fin forward about 4cm. it should help with the fore/aft trim. wich will allow me to get better trim with just the battery and to have the trim weight not so far aft.
thoughts?
ok so I got home and started playing the bulbs.
red line is existing fin location
green dot is the balance point of the bulb
Yellow line is fin centerline
Purple line is center line of proposed fin location
Blue line is proposed fin location
I put cantilevered both bulbs onto a scale with the fulcrum at the yellow line and the leading edge of the bulb on the scale
orange bulb displayed 30 grams
black bulb displayed a whopping 285 grams.
so I got creative and figured out a way to mount the orange bulb assembly to the Esterel in a temporary manner.
Egad… minor success. with the trim weight well aft, and the battery midships the waterline location on the bow moved 5mm lower…IE the bow went up… with the balanced bulb.
So. I’m going get the milling machine fired up and start cutting a new slot for the keel bulb. in the proposed location well forward of the balance point so the bulb is tail heav. remember I want to be able to have the trim weight and battery closer to mid ship for easier trimming.
I hate drilling and machining lead…i’ve broken more bits with lead… ugh…
so did some work tonight moved the keel about 4 cm forward. the yellow line marks the original trailing edge location.
going to float it tomorrow and see how it turns out. if the float works well, then I’ll fill in the original slot with lead shot and epoxy.
Well moving the bulb Did the trick. I still have to put the corrector weight aft, but the bow is just barely in the water… and moving the battery forward drops the bow
Now just need to fill in the old fin slot.
Claudio. With the boat properly ballasted. To the iom min weight. She sits a but low in the water. When I remove the rig from the Boat 300 grams or so, it looks better sitting the water with the bow and transom just barely touching.
well she officially measured in. just need to send off the paperwork
we did some testing against a mad max. able out point easily. but very similar speeds. if I was in front the mad max could not catch, if the mad max was in front i was not able to catch.
Hi Marc, I suppose that some volume is lost, but I do not recall which design is concerned.
Cheers
Claudio
compared to V9 and britpop, hulls seems slow… good start in clean air, and i was getting walked down easily
on the down side, servo melted down and nearly burned a hole in the hull…at the Region 7 championship… so this hull might be toast.
That’s horrible news about the servo. Did the hull survive?
inside is charred and the outside paint surface is bubbled.
probably salvageable… with some sanding on the outside and add a small patch of glass and resin inside.