What started out as 2 blocks of Dow Corning 4" thick insulation foam. Is now a male plug. Thanks to a good friend for his computer and CAD/CAM/CNC machine, he working on a goth plug.
my plan is to do what I’ve done on the Albacore(bilge rat) 6,4,2 ounce glass
I just finished a hull for a 1920’s powerboat(Augusta) using the same glass method. and the bare hull prior to finish sanding/paint is 10.4 ounces… and its 38" long
being that the iom hull is much skinnier and not nearly as much free board… getting the bare hull with no deck close to 225-250 grams should not be a challenge.
need to order some more glass before I start glassing though…hate to run out…
I’ve been seeing a complete hull with deck and fittings around 500 -800 grams… I figure if I can come in at 225-250 for the hull, adding the deck and fittings should put in the 500-600 gram range…
Good and fast work Marc. Thank you for taking the time to share this build with us.
I am puzzled. How did you come up with a nice and smooth closed transom and bow hull from your opened ends hull? Maybe your pictures are just too low-res to understand your work. I imagine that you preformed the bow and cut the transom out of a plat f/g plate. But your joints seem so perfect!
I’ll take some closeups this afternoon. it is not nearly as purty as you think… i used some painters tape to close up the ends from the outside and than laid up 3 layers of glass from the inside… I then used some west 105/206 with some micro light filler 410 on the inside to as a fillet. I will need to mix some west with the low density filler 410 for the outside to fair the joints. the bow joint will be covered with a bumper. have not cut the bumper yet…
in all honesty getting the hull shape is usually the hardest part, but having someone who has access to nice equipment has made life a bit easier and a lot cleaner. having to sand the foam is one of the bigger PITA’s
235 grams
keel fin, keel bulb, keel trunk…the fun really begins…
great work - does the overlap in the packing tape you use on the form not leave its mark on the epoxied form once removed ? do you use any wax on top of the packing tape ?
thanks for your response Marc, In an earlier post there was a question about weight. Here is a newsletter from Seattle IOM club where you can find some handy information about weight. see pages related to the built of the SKA design. If it helps.
I’m gonna try your method of the packing tape to take a mold of the foredeck of an IOM before I cut it open so I can replace the piece I’ll cut out - fingers crossed !!! :shake::shake:
no not much…i cut out the transom and the bow. I was not happy with the the way they tuned out. holidays, the wing project, and an classic motoryatch build have kept me pretty much everywhere but with the IOM…
the other thing you could do would be to use saran wrap I have used it with some success… but it wrinkles so easily…
