Ok, I just had to do it… I wanted to see if it would float.
Actually, I wanted to test out the sail and rudder before putting on any deck. I’m glad I did. The sheet hangs and there wasn’t enough wind to allow the sail to overcome the resistance, so what type of string do you use? I tried the Kevlar fishing line 50# test, which is supposed to be as thin as 20# test, but it’s stiff as Heck!! It will not feed through the servo arm hole. Either I need a smoother, more slippery sheet or I need a pulley on the arm. I think a different string is called for…
Also the rudder has just about no use at all in directional changes. The wind was very calm, but a few gusts of about 3mph came through and the rudder was useless for any change in direction. Once the sail filled, it took off where it wanted to. It seems like my slim rudder was a mistake and I probably need to make a wider one. Yes? No?
All in all, there was hardly any breeze at all and that was a good thing, because I have a Lot to learn!
How do y’all like my JCPenney sail!! I got one of their bags this morning and made it up…
I didn’t do any adjusting of things, because untill I correct the sheet issue, there’s no sense to make other changes…
Justin,
I couldn’t see from your latest pictures whether you had sanded your rudder (and keel). If not - sand them into a nice airfoil shape with a parabolic front third and a long tapering rear. Then I paint them with epoxy that has been thinned about 1/3 with ethanol. When it is all nice and hard (usually a couple of days) sand it, fill any holes and sand it again! You will be amazed at the improvement in performance.
My favorite sheet is “Original braided Spiderwire” in 30 or 40# strength. It is getting hard to find so the newer teflon coated ‘superlines’ (spectra or dyeema) are ok, but stiffer. Pay lots of attention to friction whereever the line turns a corner. I use glass beads in the servo arm to reduce friction and brass screw eyes to direct the line.
Hang in there. I find sorting out the problems to be the most rewarding part of the whole operation.
Scott
Justin, the sail looks fine.
Please, do not go sailing again until you have some sort of covering over the deck area.
Even if it is a plastic sheet taped on it is better than nothing.
Otherwise you risk losing your boat, your radio gear and everything else.
Congrats on getting it done. I now name thee “Skipper JusVal”. Now it’s time to name your Yacht.
For temp covering of the deck, I used 2" blue painters tape and completed 3 laps of July Jaunt & Jostle in 4 minutes 30 seconds. Have sailed it 5+ hours and no water in the hull. Will use Monokote for final deck. Using “Jenny Craig” diet plastic soup bowl ring and lid for hatch cover which does not leak. Friend simply uses thin plastic sheet & color electical tape for hatch.
Investigate “Internet Course” for practice rounding marks and gaging your speed vs the 40+ World Wide times posted on “Brett” McCormack"s website. This is good practice before you go Head-To-Head with other boats. Also, see what times a friend or your bride can post using your boat and before you know it, you could have a fleet of two+ boats.
I’m thinking about the new Spiderwire Ultracast Braid in 10# - 20# test. It’s supposed to be very supple. Either that or the Western brand Teflon coated 15# test braid backing for fly line. It’s supposed to be really slick. I have a friction problem where the line goes thru the deck and at the servo arm. I am opening up the hole in the arm and I think I have to use more supple line…
I think that part of it is from the double purchase. It causes more resistance. I think that I will use guides from a fishing rod. I used to do a lot of fishing and have some spare ones and I know they will guide the line freely… I will look at glass beads also…
The beads I use are slightly cylindrical and only about 1/8 to 3/16" in diameter. Holes are probably less than 1/16 and have a smooth flare on each end. The small hole minimizes water intake when it submarines or water comes across the deck.
I use about 1/2" length of clear plastic tubing (1/4" dia) from ACE hwd and force a bead partially into each end. A little standoff above the deck also helps eliminate water intake.
I use the loop ends of safety pins as guides and tie-offs under the deck and as guides on servo arms.
Thank you for explaining how you do that. I need to think about the different options like that. I appreciate all you do. I think that you don’t really have to pay postage though. I do have some of those things here, like safety pins and plastic tubing, so please don’t spend the money. I am Very thankful for your kindness.
Well, I have the deck on finally. There’s a couple of new pictures on my web page. The link is below. The pictures show how I fastened the removeable portion of the deck and I still need to decide how to cover the servo linkage… http://www.butterfliesandbirds.org/footystuff.htm
I have the first color of paint on and sometime when it warms back up (hopefully before next spring) I will do the accent color and be done:)
Hi Justin,
Please be careful when you sail your boat to check it often. In most any weather, Footys are usually quite tender, heeling over easy when they are in most any position of sail, and on a run with the wind to their back, they tend to stand on their nose and bury the bow underwater. For this reason, most guys seal their hatches with electrical or vinyl tape around all edges, and raise the sheet exit holes higher than the surface of the deck with some kind of fairlead like a glass bead. I see that you have a rather large open area around the rudder pushrod, and that your hatch goes all the way to the edge of the hull (sheer), which means it will be underwater most of the time. If it were my boat, I would make sure to have positive flotation by filling the hull wherever possible with blocks of styrofoam carved and sanded to shape to be as close to a perfect fit filling up the inside of the hull as much as possible. You might want to consider using a piece of a balloon to seal off that pushrod opening. There have been several posts about Footy sinkings, and even IF they were retrieved (some weren’t), the radio gear was usually damaged beyond repair. I would hate to hear of a similar tale from you!
Well, I don’t think I will sail it more than once, just to say I did it and finished it. I am not really proud of the work. I guess it’s just that I’m way too picky and expect too much, but hey I’ve done that all my life, so?..
I think it’s terrible actually, but I will finish the log, since I started the log… Maybe someone who is going to build one will at least see the mistakes I have made and learn from them by the replies from y’all, before they do the same thing…
I have learned a lot, as I said before. I’m going to finish it up, but after that it’s time to seriously evaluate the results…
Thanks for all the pictures, and the link to your site:D
She looks a sweet little boat, and you have a lot to be proud of:
[list
[li]You have done it!
[/li][li]You have Zooooomed up a very steep learning curve
[/li][li]You could (if you wished) do a second Razor in a fraction of the time
[/li][li]You have shared with us, and given many other people pleasure (and encouragement)
[/li][list]
That’s a win, in my book!
Did you ever drop a line to Bill Hagerup? Even though he is 7 foot six tall (and quite luminous) I’m sure he would be chuffed to little naafi breaks with your build. (he is mudhenk on the forum)
marc - Yes the bulb is backwards, but it’s not fixable now, so it just has to be dealt with. I understand (now) that the eyelets might act as anchors. I really never thought it would/could heel over that far.
I would have to say that I would only try this boat in a very light wind, Very light… I would also think that I would not be interested in racing or sailing in high winds, where any boat could heel that far over. I don’t think that’s what I am about.
I will take these comments under advisement, as I analyze the build, the problems and the results. I don’t know that sailing is my thing, I’m just trying to find something to take up time, more or less and I know I didn’t want to take up airplanes. They hit the ground way too hard!
Ok, I made a couple of changes before final painting.
First I took some advice and did away with the removeable deck and the hooks. I permanently epoxied the whole deck to the hull, but first I took a Rubbermaid container and cut the top off. I epoxied it thru the deck and it has a screw on lid that fits tight.
Second I fixed the rudder linkage problem. I used a finger off a Playtex Glove and stuck the linkage rod through it. Then I epoxied the finger to the transom. Then I epoxied the finger to the deck, so there is no open gap and as the linkage moves the finger flexes with it and the seal is tight…
