Important for beginners :
I do realise that probably the shadows distance of 12.5 cm is just at the limit were stripes flexions could start during sanding.
To avoid bumps & shallow skin, the interior side shall be coated with glass-epoxy resin before starting any sanding.
The master shall be first removed from the board and later put back again.
Claudio - I bought some veneer for a JIF65 project, but never used it. It is Curly Maple and about 1/20 inch thick. It may become the deck for your nARROW design I am building. When clear coated (epoxy or varnish) it has a three dimensional look to it - almost looks like the surface is wavy. Photo is a bit off color (flash) and color is a bit more towards a light tan. When finished, it looks beautiful, but a bit on the expensive side.
Dick,
1/20 inch is the double of the one I will use for my 10R that is 1/42 inch. At the end there is the risk to have a too heavy hull.
My assembly will be : 1st layer of glass 50g/m², venner 1/42, glass 2x 50g/m². The expected weight will be : 3g/dm² veneer + 1.5 g/dm² glass = 4.5 g/dm² + 1.5 g/dm² epoxy = 6g/dm².
Not exluded to add another layer 50 g/m² = 0.5 g/dm².
Strange - never heard of them and they are here in the eastern part of US. Prices look good too. I have bookmarked as you can never tell when I will be shopping again.
Hope you reversed the direction of your templates (i.e. - left to right or right to left) I only say this as I did some Mini40 multihull hulls one time as left/right hull half, and forgot to flip. I finished with two “left” side hulls, and no right side of the hull ! Was kind of embarrassing. [BIG GRIN] reminder for others who might try - I would guess you made the change before starting on the second side of the hull.
The work progress is going in standby…
Why ?
At the time of order I bought 50 stripes of each in 7x3mm and 5x3mm and 1 mt long. Hull lenght 142cm without balsa overhangs.
During assembly of the first half hull I got the feeling that the samba skin coverage was somewhat flexible compared to previous models.
This is due to the actual shadows distance of 12.5 cm compared with 10cm or 6.5 cm of other models.
Because of that, I decided to avoid the use of 5x3 mm stripes, hence a new order placed for 7x3mm stripes. Before the end of the week I should start again !!
It may be possible that glueing more “narrow” stripes I could end up with more stiff assembly, but this, for the time being, is ignored and I prefers to do the same things as for the first half.
Could you please take quite a few pictures/ explain the process when you join the two halves.
I searched for threads and saw one or two explanations for the multihulls, but they were more aimed at guys with experience and I couldnt quite get my head around how to do it neatly/precisely.
Hi Naptalene
I think all it is described at # 47, if you need more let me know. In any case all be described ‘step by step’ once the operations will be implemented. I need one week once the stripes will be availables and another fews days to apply glass-epoxy coat inside. The subsequent operation will be the joining (see drawing) of the 2 parts after removal of all ‘legs’. This operation will last until the full sanding, external glass-epoxy, fairing and packing tape application will be completed. Once finish the 2 molds parts will be separated again in order to start a new building phase pertaining to the real hull construction. Why all that ? Because is not possible to laminate and ‘demold’ the final hull on one single part due to the upper reverse angle (sketch under preparation).
Cheers
PS: here it is
It may be possible to try a de-molding with full glass-epoxy lamination relaying on the elasticity of the lamination itself, but in my case the skin is a sort of sandwich composed of glass-epoxy and wood veneer believed to be more rigid. Risks of damages not escluded !
Great photos of your boat and also of yourself. So are you sailing it like this (but finished) or are you going to use as a plug to make a fiberglass molding from it?
Hi Dick, so the easiest part is almost completed since there is a small gap at the bow side due to stripe untwist. From here, the next will be a loaded epoxy brush all over the internal surfaces. This will make the hull body more rigid and ready to support the hand sanding pressure. Not excluded to adds some glass reinforcement all over after check of the first epoxy layer. Since this is the Master, the wood sanding operations will start after the epoxy treatment. The two halves will be joined again with some balsa sheet interface and sanding carried out on the full surface. Me in the picture to show the hull size !
Cheers
Claudio
