Since I frozen the first 10R design I also intending to use a Radial Jib Boom.
The boom shall be flush to the deck roof to reduce the air fluxes from one side of the jib surface to the other. This should reduce the drag effects.
The Radial boom shall be as simple as possible without any adjustment. In case would be necessary to improve performances in that day and wind conditions, a different simple boom will be used as replacement in the most simpler way.
Garry Hoyt developed a sort of swing boom for scale 1 boats, but too high from the deck for obvious reasons. You may check: ‘Gary Hoyt + radial boom’
Any comments ?
ClaudioD
Claudio -
Doug Lord had a “Hoyt Boom” mounted on his 50 inch monohulls. Unfortunately, I don’t have any photos of them.
I can see if I can get any photos from him. Also, I believe the Skapal Marblehead used that type of jib boom so can see what I find there.
Found this one of a Marblehead using the Hoyt concept.
Oh, Dick that’s not a Hoyt boom per se (i.e. like Doug versions). The ball bearing boom pivots on a cf plate where the angle can be adjusted by the screw in the front.
Actually, the Hoyt Boom (as designated) looks to be more of a round tube with a bend near the front (less than 90 degrees) and that slides into a tube in the deck. Most look to only have outhaul options for the clew adjustment of the jib. Some versions are more refined than others though as are their distance above the deck.
Still wondering, if the boom angle is adjusted at the front deck plate, what would one use a topping lift?
The Hoyt Boom has a specific application for cruising, certainty do not consider the air fluxes passing from one side of the sail surface to the other.
Remember the Enterprise Main Boom (Park Avenue). The drag aspect is important to model level as for the real boats. The racing Genoa is always flush to the Deck for that reason.
I’m always surprised to see on models the Jib boom staying several cm above deck and ignoring the aerodynamics behavior of sail.
The Waliki is a good approach, good material but too expensive !
My approach suggest no adjustment at all to avoid complications, if necessary, another interchangeable boom may be used. The drawing include a dual position.
Here the Hoyt Boom.
ClaudioD
It took some weeks before making a decision. Often in conflict with myself.
The choice was between two designs the “Sugar Box” expected to be excellent at close hauled and well performing during Running due to the flat bottom and the “Narrow Deck” expected to be also good at close hauled.
Finally the opportunity to build a wooden model using pear tree veneer was the definitive choice as the first 10R model. The “Sugar Box” may be the follower !
Shadows are printed ready to be glued on 5mm multiply.
New bands saw delivered.
Pears tree Veneer in stock since the NZL20 construction option
The new lab is almost ready
Here below some pictures being part of the Build Log
BTW: Since I do expect that the hull to be in the order of 620g, against 320g with glass-epoxy, I decided to remove the Roof to gain some weight.
The radial boom is similar to the Hoyt type but much closer to the deck. The shaft should be mounted on bearings although I do no fill really necessary at the moment.
Shadows prints glued on multiply wood
The Jib offset radial boom preliminary project
Claudio - I might have to try this on the new RG65 - just change the angle between the boom and deck. Will give this some thought.
Dick
Hi Dick,
I have to try yet but it may be possible to avoid the use of ball bearings and substitute them with a Teflon tube. The problem is the Teflon bonding to some support unless is clamped in some way.
Claudio,
Not to be undone by any of your spectacular recent new boat designs the U.S.Navy has shown it’s newest 610 ft Destroyer. Looks to me like their on the same page as you as far as design goes. Keep up your inspiring work!
Clark
Hi Claudio …
Just one thing, if you go with your second radail jib design you may want to consider the addition some sort of kicking strap to keep the boom down on the run …
Gio,
Hope will be not necessary relaying on the hull structure to support the bending stress of the Hoyt type Boom. A rail it is considered on deck with the sheeting passing trough a sliding ring.
Something similar was already tested by my friend Alan on one of his AC120. All that is under consideration once the hull will be in hands.
Hi Clark,
with the overhangs the reversed bow is not applicable !
“Build Log” for 10R Esterel ND1.
Shadows contour cut at -3.5mm. 3mm for stripes coverage and remaining for Veneer wood and Glass Epoxy. Sanding not included.
1/2 Master strip planking started
some additional pics for the 10R “Esterel ND”
Others images, the work is progressing
Claudio - this is balsa wood, correct? It is not the Apple strips is it?
Dick