mine are 7mm thick 51mm wide… so a bit on the thick side… IMO…but you cant beat the price…
And what is the lenght of it?
For the pair of the blades I paid 31 dollars postage included
What was your cost?
I have not purchased any in a while, but I think there were in $20 plus postage range and I think they were about 500mm long… I don’t have have any “whole” blades any more… but I though they were for the 500 series helicopters…
This is the blades that I have for my boat:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_12929__Turnigy_Carbon_Fiber_Main_Blade_700mm_1pair.html
The main dimensions are:
Length: 70.5cm
Width: 6.25cm
Thickness 0.89cm
Weight: 162gr
The weight is not the original since I have modified it the upper part’s shape so as to be suitable for the keel box
Here are my last photos of my boat:
In the last photo you can see my last creation the carbon groovy mast.
It is higher than I am going to use. It is tapered 1,95 high and I am going to give you more information next week that it is going to finish.
the tapered carbon groovy mast is very intriguing…
It has been almost two months since I last posted any progress of the model.
The reason is that I sold my first hull and that I did not have time to build a new one and also the lack of interest.
Finally I started again the previous week and now I am in the process.
The lamination of the new hull is different than the first one.
The new one consists of two layers of 200g/m2 and a 10x5 cm patch where the hole for the keel is going to be made.
The result is much better because in the soft parts of the hull the previous was too soft.
And also in the new one I want to be as light as possible.
Here are some new photos of the construction of the hull:
For the deck I used 6x6cm square carbon tube so as to create beams and Depron as a mold for the surfaces for the carbon.
It is also going to be 2 layers of Carbon but 165g/m2.
You can also see the weight of the hull in every step.
I am very happy with it.
And here is the beginning of the decking process:
In the last 3 photos you can see a test shape of the superstructure to give an idea of the final result.
About the mast I have built two of them.
The first one was very soft and the second one on the opposite extremely stiff.
Through my mistakes I had my lessons and now for the third one I think I can make it bendy without being soft.
This is the next week’s project.
Cheers gentlemen.
I have also bought all the electronics that I need for the boat and here is the photos of them:
This is the receiver of the RC system. You can also see the weight of it.
This is the rudder servo with its big carbon head that will lead the pair of ruder blades:
Model: TURNIGY TGY-4409MD
Operating voltage: 4.8~6.0V
Operating speed (4.8V): 0.13sec/60°
Operating speed (6.0V): 0.11sec/60°
Stall torque (4.8V): 8.65kg.cm (120.15 oz/in)
Stall torque (6.0V): 9.45kg.cm (130.88 oz/in)
Dimensions: 41x20.3x29.5mm
Weight: 44g
This is the battery:
Specs
Capacity: 2100mAh
Voltage: 7.4v
Constant discharge: 6-10C
Weight: 94g
Size: 59x35x27mm
And finally and most important this is the winch servo:
SPECS
Standard drum 32 mm
Weight 145 grams
Maximum Voltage 8V
Turns from 3 to 4,5
Operating speed 3,5 turns in 1,2 sec
Torque >30 kgs
2 alternatives for the paintjob…
Please I need your opinions
If there is anyone interested about the development let me know.
TOTAL WEIGHT 803gr
I like the Quantum paint job. Perhaps with the carbon fiber showing instead of the gray color.
Thank you my friend for your reply.
I thought that nobody was interested in this project and I am totally disappointed. 
The plan in both cases with the black hull is to let the carbon visible and add some color.
I really like the quantum color but I think that it is used almost by everybody.
Don’t you think?
Definitely the Quantum colours - they really suit the style of boat.
Like you, I’m surprised there have been so few responses to your build log (although this forum does tend to be quieter in the summer months, everyone’s gone sailing!!) - it’s new designs that are the life blood of this hobby. I, for one, get a bit fed up when researching aspects of component design/fitment and find the majority referenced to the IOM…
Having now discovered your log & read through it, can you give any additional information about your sailwinch? It doesn’t look to be a commercially available unit - is it something you’ve built yourself? My current project requires 3 winches and I’m still undecided as to which to go for.
Keep up the excellent work, I want to see this yacht sailing!!
Regards,
Row
Edit: Just a thought for you, but have you looked at Kingplanks’ ‘Rock all Night’ posts - there’s also quite a bit on Youtube - it’s a similar design and sails phenomenally well. Should provide some more incentive!!
I just kind of stumbled upon this thread as my interests tend to be RG65’s. But, I do look at other threads to see what is happening.
Your thread shows you put a lot of effort into a design that is different than most. I like new design builds myself, there’s sort of some real excitement behind
building something no one else has. Then to see it sail makes it all worth it. Build what you like, build a few more for yourself and friends and go have some fun.
I’m sure those passerby s will stop and admire your handywork and maybe get excited about them too.
Keep on plugging away…
Sven
My friend Row this is my first attempt to build an RC model.
This is why I decided to publish a build log to the forum.
So I can have some kind of guides, since I do not have any previous experience in building a model.
I have got experience in the epoxy and carbon from my job but it is a completely new scale to me.
I had had no help at all, and I am very disappointed.
I was thinking of stop posting in the forum
and Seven I completely understand that, not all friend of the forum are not interested in my construction, but just 10 replies for 20.784 views?
Anyway…
I had so many problems about all the electronics and the decision about:
the winch servo, the radio control, the rudder servo, batteries, charger and the radio control since I had none of them.
I steel have problem about the mast and standing rigging.
All of my decisions are the cheapest available since the crisis is not letting me have all the glamorous parts that I would like.
I was looking for example some carbon groovy 19x8mm mast but the cost of it is something way out of my reach and this is why I have build 3 of them to get the result that I wanted.
I have invest a loooots of hours in research and construction for this boat.
The plan is to have a Genoa or even a code 0 instead of a jib for the front sail.
I have discovered about the Sprinta and a similar design I had done myself to sail my boat.
Now about my sailwinch this is commercially available and I am going to sent you in a PM the link for it
since I do not want to offend the forum’s police about advertising.
I am going also to post about the drum that I am planning to use since the radius
is not going to be constant in regard of the need of strength in every point of the travel.
I have seen the excellent example of the “rock all night” and I have also seen the foiling that impressed me.
Thank you for the reply guys.
Regards
Kostas
This is my rudders…
This part is made to be cut in the midle and form 2 rudder buckets
Hey guas,
I’m starting to do my research re building a RC boat to replace my trusty v6. And I came across your build log and I have to say I only wish my built will be half as good as yours. Experienced in sailing, repairing f/g boats but never built one from scratch and plan on building the plug in styrodur (foam use as insulation) because I find them easier to work with then wood and planks.
So first of all brilliant work ! surprised to read this is your first model boat build but as you say clearly strat and resine has no secrets for you:smile3:
Particularely your last pics to do these pieces of cf well done as I said you know ur stuff in strat and epoxy.
This is my first read of your thread -and please don’t give up if plenty read but not comment, it is excellent stuff and inspirational for me anyway- so far nothing really shock me but it seems your displacement will be the same as an IOM 4kg right ? and your sail area should not be much different - though not sure if you go with a genoa or code 0 but one area you could save on weight is on the battery as I use a RMG 280 winch and a 7.4v pack going through the winch to power the rx and rudder servo and I use max 400mah or power - I use a 850mah lipo 2s 7.4v battery - the zippy one on HK which is really light and plenty for a full day racing. You may need more with a genoa but I thought I’d let you know as a ref if it helps.
I am also curious how you built the groovy cf mast but also as I am about to use a hull that was way too heavy to be competitive as a plug to pull 2 or maybe 3 hulls out of it (no female moulds), an I was looking for advice on how many coats of gelcoat should I go for. I was planning on just one, then sanding then waxing but I read on your thread that you put several coats - because it is the original hull I’d like to avoid building layers as the new hull will already be bigger than it’s original one. what would you recommend ?
now that I have seen your thread i’ll keep checking for updates and if I also be of help …
keep it up
Gilbert
Good morning my friend Gilbet,
Messages like yours, which is like spoken straight through the hart, is giving me a lot of courage to go on.
I know that I might wine like a baby, but I am really disappointed in this mater.
I would like to thank you for your good words from the bottom of my heart.
Now about my boat… I am really curious myself to see it sailing because as I said it needs experience to set it straight upwind.
If everything goes well I’ll be glad to share my plans and even to built and sent hulls for fellows rc sailors.
This is why I made the female mold in the first place. I have already taken 2 hulls to find out that
if you do not use vacuum process or gel-coat for the actual model the male mold works better.
I know that the IOMs should not be constructed by Carbon fibers but steel if you would like to be light do not use any gel-coat.
I used it as a filer and last surface and because I had lots of it but this is not the best for the actual model.
I was adding layers and sand them off until I get the surface that I wanted.
So if I remember correct it was about 5-6 layers but the total thickness at the end did not exceed half a millimeter.
For gel-coat to work it needs to be at least half a millimeter so it will be 1/3 of your hull’s weight.
For my next hull I am planning a very thin tissue (18g/m2) for the first layer and 3 medium tissues (48-55g/m2) to finish it on the male mold with epoxy.
Now as you have seen I verified my calculations about the displacement of the hull
with non salted water to fount that without the fins is 4Kg but compared to an IOM my hull is a lot heavier.
So I am straggling to keep the hull (without the keel) under 1.3Kg with all the electronics and rudders assembled.
The sailing area will be much more than an IOM, almost half more, and this is why I will start with so deep keel.
I will test it this way and then I will see if it can be reduced.
Now about the mast, what made me built it it was the fact that I wanted as much scale as I could
but he cost of it is whey to high to get. When I will finish with it, I will present the pictures for it too.
Now I really did not understand what you have done with the batteries yourself
but my plan is to use the zippy 2s to the winch servo and with a voltage reducer
to give power to the reciver and the rudders servo.
This week’s plan is to install all the electronics to the hull an construct the spreaders for the test mast (aluminum).
Yours
Kostas
P.S. if there is any secret you want me to revele…
Just let me know…
Thank you Kostas for your response.
I started posted on the build / more assembly of a trimaran (got it as a kit form). Just need a final sanding and a bit of filler in some places to have the 2 floats ready for painting. Was planning on painting as a test instead of gelcoat to save some weight - The paint I picked is from Epifane - it’s a one pack monourethane (http://www.epifanes.com/home.htm) which is strong, resist UV and shouldn’t crac on impact or flex but the priority is to have my next IOM ready for the next season so I put the trimaran aside for now.
Planning on buidling my IOM from a male plug in depron and styrodur. On a traditional base in wood I screw in the frames cut in depron, then fill the gaps between the frames with blocks of styrodur and then sanding until I get all the blocks down in line with the frames to form the initial form of the hull. (Done this before for the hull of a trimaran but didn’t have to stick precisely to the shape of the frames…) so I hope it won’t flex too much during the sanding. Then once I have the hull shape done I do a strat with a heavy ish f/g layer of c200g twill then a layer of 80g. then once dry I fill with filler imperfections and sand to have a clean shape. then one coat of gelcoat + sanding and polishing. then plug ready for use.
what do you think of the process ?
I don’t plan on using gelcoat for the actual IOM hull but only for the plug - planning to use this monourethane enamel paint for the actual hull.
For the electrics I connect my lipo 2s 7.4v directly to the rmg winch which can take up to 9v - the winch will then send 6v through the servo wires connected to the rx to power the rx and rudder servo. I use the specktrum AR500 rx which is very light and offers great range (been using it for 5 years now - no glitch) but I had to change it last week due to a connection issue (the pins on the rx were getting progressively oxydated despite cleaning them from time to time - can’t complain really after 5 years of use racing in salt water). OrangeRx also offer a very light and cheap rx in 2.4Ghz in DSM2 and DSMX for only 6gr.
Rudder servo is approx 40gr but you could save more by using a mini servo and shave up to 20g but you need something with c7-9Kg of torque. The only thing re genoa or code 0 is that the system to control them is often adding extra weight so if you’re limit already you may want to go for a self-tacking jib or bomed jib solution that will be controled together with your main from your winch at no extra electric weight.
wow that’s gonna be a big sail area so I’m with you on the deep keel.
Keep on the great work Kostas
Gilbert
Hallo my friend
First of all I would like you to tell me about your plans.
Is that an existing drawing or it is a new one of yours?
I love when people try new things and experiment with new ideas.
Now about your plug… I like the use of the foam but the problem is first
that it is too soft and by sanding you might lose the original shape,
and second that most foams dissolve with any solvent (acetone, styrene)
and you can cover the plug with anything else than epoxy.
I think that depron is very good for plunking but it is definitely not for bulkheads.
Have you ever seen the PVC foam?
It is solvent resistant and there are a lot of densities and thicknesses.
In my next project I am going to use chipboard for bulkheads and 3mm 80kg/m3 for plunking.
The good think is that you can use it also as foam for sandwich construction as I am going to do.
Now about the battery I am planning to use the same connection diagram.
And now is your tern to help me… I do not know how to install my winch servo.
What kind of structure should I do to put it onboard…
And here are some pictures of the ruder suspension.
