Since I didn’t find a Victor Model V-12 Footy build, I thought I would start one. Just so you know…I am not by any means a sailor guy (in any way you are thinking:rolleyes:) So if you think you know more than me…you are right and can help keep me in the straight and narrow path:) All input on methods and techniques are welcome…there is always a better way I am told.
First rule: assume nothing
Everyone makes mistakes…so make sure what you read ( directions, drawings and pictures) make sense before you start. I like to mock up the pieces (test fit as it were) before I muck it up…which I still do on occassion.
This is my third footy…#1 K2 Kittywake, #2Victor V-12, and now #3 another Victor -V12 Footy
The Kit comes neatly packed with the hull, deck, mast, sails and hardware to complete the kit. See Photos below.
What you will need is some 5 or 15 minute epoxy, thin and thick CA, sandpaper, hobby knife and extra blades, small 6" and larger 12" squares, and some screw drivers. Last but not least is the Footy Kit.
After you check if you have all of the parts, find a container to put it all in so you don’t misplace anything.Then you will want to read the instructions and study the photos. If their are words you are not familar with…LOOK THEM UP AND MAKE SENSE OF ITS USE.
You can build the hull and mast system at the same time (while glue and paint dries)
Since the mast and keel uses the deck as a reference point I wanted to make sure it was flat from stem to stern (front to back). I didn’t do that when I first built this boat and had to tear it all apart because I couldn’t get things square. ( I assumed it was flat:mad:)
Next I drilled (did I mention you need a drill and bits?:rolleyes:) 1/8" holes in the bottom of the hull where the two pilot holes are.( pre drilled at the factory) I then layed a small square next to the hole to draw a straight line. I placed my pencil in the each of the 1/8" holes and moved the square up againist the pencil (edge of the hole) in both holes then marked the straight line with a freshly sharpened pencil. I did this on both sides of the holes. I aligned the straight edge in the same manner and scribed along the edge from hole to hole (both sides of the hole of course) and repeated until the knife would track between holes without the straight edge. Go slow and don’t try to make it in one stroke;)
Next we glue the cross-grain 1/16" x 3/16" plywood pieces to the top edge of the hull (deck side)This is for the deck to have a greater surface to glue to… Clamp (your choice) or small clothes pins, the strips to the hull to hold while glueing with thin CA. Do this over a protected surface. Some times it leaks through if you get carried away because you can’t see how much is comming out of the bottle;)
Next, cut the transom beam out of the 1/4 x 1/4" stock…glueing only to the transom and not the sides. Notice the transom is not 90 degrees to the deck, so you will have to sand the transom side to square up to the deck or glue a little high and sand down later.
The next step is where I thought I had messed up and torn it all out and started over again on the second hull. The first hull went well because I didn’t exacty follow the directions to the letter.
First of all the hull I received was not flat …level or straight from bow to stern. So I didn’t have a surface to square everything from. So I took a sheet of 100 grit and moved the boat back and forth on the sandpaper until I didn’t see a shadow in the middle of the hull. See picture.
Mounting the beam at the 5 1/2’ mark on the hull sides interfers with the mast in MHO…See pictures and mesurements and you will see it is off by 3/16 to 1/4" to far aft. I did not discover this until I tried to mount the deck. There is not enough room for the sail feed tube and mast between the transom beam and the main beam of the hull. Since I didn’t want to hack the beams to make it fit…I moved the main beam forward to miss the beam 1/4". I brought this up now so you don’t have to tear it out and re-do it.
The last picture shows the black mark on the beam where the mast is suppose to go to the bottom of the hull
Since the main beam was the only “problem” I (me myself) had, I can now get going on the build.
After you have cut out the keel hole and fitted the Plywood Keel, turn the boat over and draw a center line from the rear of the keel line to 1.5" in front .of the keel hole. Now draw a line at 90 degrees 1 1/2" in front of the keel hole. This mark will be used to locate the mast mounting block shortly. (picture)
Now we have to intall the keel cross brace (picture) Using the deck as a “square to point” I placed a block across the beam and placed my square on top of the block and located the blade to the front of the keel hole. I then centered the fitted keel support up against the square and tacked in place, in the middle, with Thick CA. Remove the square and check that nothing has moved…Square up the cross piece…Tack the ends and recheck everything then glue with Thick CA.
We have not covered the keel itself yet, …it is eaiser to install all of the bits in the hull, without having to fight the Keel and bulb (keel weight)
I have posted 8 times today and someone erases it. I have reposted several post with the same results. I will no longer support this site with my efforts:mad:
jim:confused:
