All are 2 Meter size multihulls - France regatta.
Steve Crewes - just for you - enjoy!
i don’t know about steve but i’m in love 
you aren’t alone:long:
Seagull …
Cool - is it time for me to act as a “pimp” yet (again)? 
You guys (down under) have a wonderful developing fleet down your way. Good building activity and it looks like somehow you have gotten a group interested in spending the time building, as well as sailing. Not sure it is close to you, but it’s taking place! BTW - these happen to be 2 Meter boats, and a bit smaller Mini40/F-48 is always and option. A few of us have gone down to 1 Meter, and while still impressive, they can be a handful to sail. :scared:
If anyone is seriously interested, I think I have cross-sections available for a 2 Meter somewhere in my files collection that I could email. Also have a set for a 3 Meter, but heck - might just as well build a 5.5 Meter and go for a ride yourself!
Mainly just keeping the option for a multihull up front and current.
Just curious Dick - what sort of power do you need for the sail servo on these 2 meters? Is it comparable with and IOM or M, or is more “grunt” required?
How about transportation - do the hulls separate?
I could be tempted to add one of these to my long list of future build projects.
after seeing the photos, i have just one thing to say… Where can I get one… hopefully as an easy to assemble kit (ARS)
Muzz -
the ones that I know of, are predominantly using the big Guyatt drums - or the big 1/4 scale Hitech arm winch. Multiple part mainsheet purchase is also helpful to take some of the direct loads off the winch. Most use a separate winch for main and jib that further reduces need for really heavy-duty winches. J-Boats, and to some extent the bigger AMYA Class boats all use one of these ideas. The rudder takes a bit more than an IOM but they are pretty much balanced so “huge” servos aren’t needed.
Saying that - I must admit that through a friend of mine at “Generous” Motors, I grabbed a few power window and seat motors … just in case. Steve Andre also was helpful in determining torque/power and offered a few suggestions about setting them up as a winch. I haven’t done that yet, but have them as backup in case.
Dismantle is a question I posed to a few of the French guys, but haven’t heard back yet. They, like the Mini40/F-48 are able to be built to allow cross beams to be removed from main hull and floats, and I suppose the mast could be built in two parts - also to help with travel. On the otherhand, a few have built the platform solid, and they don’t dismantle, but travel then becomes an issue. Somehow if you were to fly from US to New Zealand, a set of hulls that is 6 foot square would cause some airline travel issues and restrictions. I am having second thoughts even on my F-48. My 1 Meter was built for travel disassembly, and I had thought how easy it would be just to glass the cross beams directly in place. Then reality set in - what if I miscalculated float volumes, beam locations, or worse yet - damage that required a replacement float or main hull? With that in mind - not travel, I have concluded that the judicial use of some blind “T” nuts with stainless screw/bolt fasteners made sense. I also had a friend make up some aluminum plates that can be drilled and tapped for machine bolts. These can be imbedded in hull/floats to allow a secure method of attachment.
WindWarrior -
unfortunately, there just isn’t enough demand for these 2 Meter monsters - so all are scratch-built, or a local sailor has built a mold for his sailing buddies and they have layed up a few for local or regional clubs. To import, the freight is an issue - but if you are truly serious, I would be glad to research my contacts to see if someone is building as a complete boat or kit. My guess (just a guess) is that if a standard F-48 (1.2 meters) is running close to $2,000 with radio, the 2 Meter will probably be upwards and close to $4,000 - $5,000 … which also explains why they aren’t on the market as “production” kits.
They can be built - it’s just like building three (3) very large IOM hulls - sortof :spin: - but by using cross sectional station templates, balsa or very thin cedar, it makes for one heck of a great winter project. Actually, those who have done the 2 Meter say building the hulls isn’t that much longer than an IOM since they don’t have as many curves as an IOM around the bow or stern, but fairing does take longer for obvious reasons. Still, if you have done a little hull, a bigger one is actually easier to layup and fair (not as critical) and if you really want to hit the water, you can simply lay up the curved top deck and bottom of hull and build the sides out of sheet ply since they could be built flat.
And don’t forget - a couple of big chunks of foam, shaped and glass covered is a quick and easy way to go. Sure weight will be a tad more than a hollow hull, but the build is so much faster. Don’t discount solid foam floats, and a main hull just hollowed out for radio gear! It’s an option to strip building.
Geez! I just stopped and thought about the above - I take back a bit of what I wrote :blkeye: … It is like building nine (9) IOM hulls if you are looking only at waterline lengths! Duh !
But to be fair, the only real curves are on deck, bottom of hull and perhaps a bit narrowing at the bow. The rest remain very flat to just a slight curve.
this is a pic of a boat for sale down near melbourne it looks great just out of my price range at the moment
Seagull it looks like those two tris have stopped at Sale in Victoria. Doesn’t appear to be much Wahoooooooo ing going on?
Dick , that green Multi, is that particular boat down by the head as the transom seems to be out of the water. And Dick , why is that boat 122 in a short, reduced rig and moving slowly and the rest of the fleet moving as there is no wind? And is there any results from the Multi regatta in Queensland to hand.
Seagull , your in lurve ?
Steve
Steve -
still haven’t heard a word from your fellow Aussies! Seems like they are probably getting cranked up for “your” summer season, and spending more time getting ready to sail ?
As for the green GroupAma tri, it seems to follow the off-shore boat designs - in having sterns free of water, but full bows. As they begin to heel, they tend to go bow-down in gusts, (similar to monohulls) so the fuller bow will help with buoyancy. On the other end, no sense in dragging a lot of surface through the water, if not needed, - kind of like the older mono-hull classics with overhang - it comes into play once heeled with a lot of weight on the entire length of the float supporting the other float, and perhaps even the main hull. Also, downwind, the fuller bows will (hopefully ?) keep from nose-diving and resulting pitchpole. Not too many times do they get blown over backwards - usually forwards or to the side.
Sorry, but I can’t comment on the short sails in such air. Perhaps they expected heavy wind and never got it, or they could be at the lee shore and shielded a bit from any strong winds?
Edit - ADDED: Note #25 photo of the red/white boat. Flying both windward hull and main, but doesn’t “look” like there is much wind. Not big waves or whitecaps. Perhaps these are a bit overpowered? Naaa - NEVER !
Dick we sail all year round . The difference in winter sailing to summer sailing is the time the boats are out of the water getting an anti-foul done, go go go all year , particularly in Queensland. Beautiful one day perfect the next . All year round.
As I said before that this class of boat,the Multis just doesn’t stand a chance of getting up, because it is not consistent. Its a shame for Seagull showed there were some in Victoria, NSW but no organisation???
I personally think we have the perfect weather for them , fluky stronger winds( for Wahooooing). Sydney, where I sail has mean wind strengths of 6 to 9 knots.
Steve
Hi All, Was wondering if you could define the term “fairing” a hull (term used by Dick Lemke on page 1 of this thread). I figure that the term layup means planking the formers with thin balsa strips. Thanks for the help.
Regards,
Mark
Alf - the process of filling in low areas, and sanding down high areas. Usually, there are always places where laying a straight, but bendable batten across a surface, you will see low or high areas. Also it could simply be filling in the weave of the fabric used for reinforcement.
Hope this explains it?
Hi guys. Been reading this forum for a few years, never had much to contribute. Here is a few pics of a recent purchase of mine, a ‘snapdragon’ mini40, that I bought on ebay. Before I upset people by including some of these photos, I should state it was too windy to go 505 sailing, so I took the tri to the lake with its only rig - the number 1. Now I knew this wasn’t smart at the time, but still a good fun challenge.
Well done !
of course, the anti-multi folks will have a field day - pointing and saying … “SEE !”… but sc:censored: w them - the fun and speed is what it is all about. (and maybe the swimming?)
Are you in the state of Washington ? If interested, I can perhaps hook you up with a fellow who built a 1 Meter recently, (Jack Ronda) as misery loves company, so to speak.
Thank you so very much for taking the time to share the photos with us. Are you an r/c sailor prior to this - or is this your first boat? Would be interested in hearing your thoughts and opinions - both good and bad to help others interested knowing what you think. Also, keeps comments balanced. Please continue to share with the rest of us - opinions and views always welcome and helpful.
Dick,
I live in Perth, West Australia. I have built a few self designed RC monohulls in the past, and even many years ago a 1m catamaran. The cat was destroyed by our family pet - the cat. I have always wanted another RC multihull, but don’t have the spare time to build one, and saw this on ebay and bought it. Its glass over balsa strip. Fairly heavy I think, but the way I seem to sail it, not such a problem…
I sail full size boats most of my spare time, so this tri is just a toy.
Sure, it can tip over, but that is half the fun. It is far more exciting and challening to sail then the monohulls, which you can always sail back to you (excluding damage of course).The tri goes bloody quick, and when I sail it it is usually overpowered, so the threat of capsize is always there.
Sme will see that is negative, but I just think it adds to the excitement.
Cheers,
Clipper (Ken Ormandy)
Thanks for the info Clipper (Ken)…
I guess I had a 50/50% chance of being right/wrong.
I am reasonably good friends with the UK fellow who did the design on Snapdraggon. It was really a boat designed for quick, easy builds.
If anyone is interested - the line plans are still available through Traplet Publications at a cost of about $13.00 (US).
The photo sequence was priceless - thanks again ! :smilebig:
And I left out the ones where I strip to my undies for the swim,and then right the boat and swim it back in.
It was a fairly hilarious introduction to RC sailing for the girlfiend (she was taking the photos)
I know nothing about Trimarans, how to sail and trim them etc…(or should i say rc-sailboats in general) And the funniest part is that i own a F-48! I just hope i can show some nice sailingpics of mine as well soon. / Erik