I agree with you on everything you said, though I’ve never had trouble with my rudder or keel.
Here in the states the SW class is really taking off–from nothing to 63 AMYA-registered (over 80 class members including non-AMYA members) in just 2 years. While higher cost than Victorias and other entry level classes, the quality of the kit materials is relatively high, making it virtually un-necessary to replace a lot of things. This strict one-design format (similar to the CR-914 class and others) helps keep additional costs to a minimum, and has been a huge attractor for potential fleet members in my local fleet.
Our local fleet (Air Capitol Model Sailing Club) has gone from 2 boats to 10 in just one season, with more to be built soon. It’s a great entry-level boat, and if the strict one design rules structure continues to be adopted by the class, the emphasis will (as it has been so far) on the competition. This boat isn’t as much for the engineering-minded or for people who love to tinker all the time, but for those who like the competition with a minimum of building (I have a CR-914 and a Victoria also and the SW is hands down the easiest to build–though I like all of my boats) and the decent looks of a mid-1990’s IACC boat, the SW is the one for you.
I think (as Wis mentioned) that even though I believe the positive way out-weighs the negative with the SeaWind, my biggest ‘complaints’ about them are as follows…
Waterproof Hatch… However, many have adopted new hatch designs (the rules are relatively relaxed on this issue) which eliminate the problem.
When sailing in heavy air where the boat is healing at a more dramatic angle, the sidestays/chainplates can drag in the water some which slows you down a little (However, the strict one design rules make the field even, so you don’t notice it unless you’re racing against a non-SW… the SW still performs very well for a kit-based boat though)
I used to believe that the kit sails were horrible, and would never be competitive. However, after sailing with them for a season or racing, I’ve learned to accept and appreciate them (mostly because buying aftermarket sails is a little expensive on SW’s and other 1M boats). There has been quite a bit of experimentation with a fleet down in Arizona with aftermarket sails vs. kit sails, and after about 2-3 years of racing, they have yet to find a large difference between SW’s equipped with paneled vs. kit sails. Their fleet champion (who also serves as the class secretary) has won most–if not all races with plain stock sails. That’s not to say that the aftermarket sail makers don’t make great sails–but they just don’t appear to help the SW much.
That’s about it for me. Others will have their opinions, and I’m not trying to ‘down’ any other class, but the SeaWind is still my favorite… but I’m not a builder–I’m much more interested in sailing and racing than spending time in the workshop building and modifying.
I read on some forums that ppl had troubles removing rudder and keel, when sailed in salt and non salt water…maybe not lubbed at all.
AS for sails…
I had the kit’s, then Walrus (cheaper than stock), and now some very special TWR sails…order made [;)]…paneled are really nice!! and I wouldnt change at all!!
Wis,
I lube my rudder shaft and occasionally my keel rod with stuff called ‘Sailkote’, which is a dry lubricant that I use on my full sized boat. I only have to do that about every other race, but I take my boat apart each time I sail it since it won’t fit fully rigged in my vehicle, so perhaps that’s part of the reason I haven’t had any trouble.
I have a set of Walrus Sails, but since the class rules do not allow them, I’ve put them aside and gotten used to using the kit sails. I have no complaints… remember–everyone else is using them too, so even if there is a performance advantage (and that’s apparently debatable), it won’t be a factor because everyone uses them.
hey guys
i have had my boat for just under a year. and love it. the boat tacks easy. and i have never had trouble with the fin or rudder. my only problem was having a IOM run over the transome. my big concern with the seawind is the low freeboard. when i get a good close up. i will post it here. basic black boat. i wanted to put oracle on the bow. simular to the iacc boat.
andy. what you should look into is a quick disconnect system. i have a set the just ties on. and the forestay clips on the boom. this works for me.
cougar
long live the cup and cris dickson
I’m not sure that I know what you mean about the quick disconnect deal… I’ve been using the stock snap hooks, but my jib tack is held on using a cleat unstead of a snap hook so that I can more easily adjust the height…
If you don’t mind… more clarification on that…
The low freeboard is not a big issue for me except for in the highest winds. Suprisingly, we had very few high wind regattas this year (go figure for windy Kansas!). The SW became the ‘star’ of the fleet without much promotion or ‘selling’. It sold itself.
andy
what i meen is that i have my forestay hooked to a ring. and that ring is hooked to the jib boom. a quick disconnect would be taking the whole thing off the boat. forestay and jib. and then just use another forestay and jib
cougar
long live the cup and cris dickson
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This has not been updated for awhile. I thought that a minor clarification might be in order.
The Seawind that all of you are talking about, is the one with the ABS hull.
In my experience the fiberglass (SE), and FRP hulls are basically garbage. In trying to strengthen the hull, Kyosho only managed to make these hulls more brittle. That is a fairly heavy bulb hanging off of a rather long blade, providing some serious leverage. Because of the brittleness of these SE & FRP hulls, it does not take much to fracture the hull.
I have only seen one SW with the new CF hull, and that was on display. So I have no idea if the $700.00+ price tag is worth it or not.
P.S.
The only time that I ever had trouble in high winds with my SW, was because I had too much tension on the Back Stay, giving too much shape in the sail.
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