Just thought I would start a special string for feedback or questions about the new SeaWind Readyset version.
Post your experiences and thoughts here so we can all hear what you think about it.
I received mine 3/19. I found that the keel would not fit up snug in trunk. Had to file around top of keel before it would seat correctly. After rerigging and basically getting it race prepped I am pretty happy.
I use a life battery and really like it. It fits with just enough clearance for sail arm to clear. I weighed my keel and it comes in at 53.5oz…Boat/sails/battery come in at 62oz…Total 7lb 3.4oz…I think alot of this is in the stock sail servo…11oz over minimum…
First race day is this Saturday and I will see how it does in the fleet.
One of the guys at our weekly fun boat sail session brought out his new Ready Set Seawind yesterday.
It has exactly the same issues that Sailrt reports; keel won’t fit without extensive “trimming” and it is overweight. However, the area around the keelbox feels stronger and may not need reinforcement as the older Japanese boats did. The included Tx will not give a full swing of the boom from close hauled to against the shrouds regardless of the trim settings, but the servo will give full throw with a DX6i and compatible Rx.
The below the waterline blue paint had serious orange peel and will need to be color sanded.
The verdict seems to be about what was predicted; good starter boat at a reasonable price that will have wide appeal to newbies, but will require lots of little things be done to it before it is a serious racer. (e.g. swap out the cleats for bowsies, change the forestay adjustment rigging, change the vang to a fuel filter style system, better seal the hatch and color sand the paint).
Glad to have it back to help feed our local clubs as an entry into the hobby.
Regarding the travel adjustment using the Kyosho 2.4 Ghz TX, it is possible to get the required full travel by using the trim adjustment lever just as I used to do with my old AM or FM radios which also did not have travel adjustment.
Set the close-hauled position of the sail winch arm with the trim lever in the fully closed position then sail upwind with the trim lever in that position. As the boats turns downwind slide the trim lever to the fully open position and sail downwind in that configuration. When the sail arm is moved to the fully open position the main boom should be able to hit the shrouds.
It just requires a bit of practice but I sailed like this for many years before we all got spoiled by the new radios with digital travel adjustment.
I think he is going to be using his DX6l, but I will tell him what you said to do.
If any owner of a SeaWind Readyset has the capability, time and inclination to scan a copy of the Instruction manual and put it in a .pdf file I would like to have a copy to post on the Seawind COA web site. I had a copy with the Readyset I had for evaluation but I sold it all to a new skipper before I thought about copying the manual.
The power switch on my new Readyset SeaWind requires a two pin connector, which matches the supplied battery holder connector. All of my other batteries have a three pin connector and will not work here. What is the solution?
I have a serious rudder position problem. I fiddle it over and over, but with the servo activated, the rudder is always several degrees off from the centerline. I have to use half the trim to center it. I see no way to adjust the rods. Has anyone solved this problem?
Alan, the easy solution is to buy an adaptor: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=LXXWL2&search=Go.
However a better long term solution would be to eliminate the on/off switch altogether which is the source of most corrosion issues, by a custom harness with a Deans plug mounted in the deck. Check out my article in SeaWind Express Spring/Summer 2012 Issue #13 page 5.
If you have further questions just send me an email.
Alan, First make absolutely sure you have centered the rudder with the set screw on the flat section on top of the rudder post.Both the Readyset versions I have seen were quite well centered when this was done correctly. If yours is still off center with the trim lever close to its center point you can adjust by popping off the plastic connectors at the servo end (use a wide flat blade screwdriver and lever it off from the under side). Shorten one side by screwing the plastic end piece further on by a couple of turns and lengthen the other side by the same amount of turns. Try them back on and adjust further as needed.
I had a problem with my rudder not holding center. It seemed to move in different directions at different times. I discovered that the brass bushing (with the flat side on it) was just a tiny bit loose in the plastic rudder horn. What I did was center the rudder with the trim centered on the TX. I applied CA to hold it. Then 1/16th drilled thru the plastic and screwed in a very small screw to hold the bushing in place. Of course when you do that you might need to readjust the links from the ruder servo.
On edit: I cannot take credit. Just took me a while to find the issue. Here is where the idea came from Seawind Express page 3.
Weight of Seawind Readyset. I bought my Seawind Readyset in June 2014. I weighed it on the 14th of Feb. 2015:
Boat without Keel or hatch cover 3 lb. 14.1 oz. or 62.1 oz.
Keel 3 lb 6.2 oz. or 54.2 oz.
Hatch Cover, Lexan 1.9 oz.
Total 7 lb. 6.2 oz. Only 14.2 oz. overweight
Minimum Weight 6 lb. 8 oz.
5 AA NiMh Battery Pack 3.9 oz. Included in boat weight, above, same as 4-cell, included with the boat
Sailrt posted his Readyset weight on 3/26/14, and his weights are about the same as mine. It appears the Readyset is just overweight. Similar servo weights are close, and similar batteries are about the same weight, so swapping these out does not appear to solve the problem. I can only gain a few ounces.
I would like to assemble a spreadsheet of boat weights. I would like to receive from SeaWind owners, their boats total weight, the keel weight, their battery weight, and whether the boat is a Kit or Readyset. Any other data would also be appreciated. I will post the spreadsheet and graphs as a file on the SeaWind COA website.
Please send data to firstname.lastname@example.org
I have a thread for SeaWind servo replacement and weights at RC Groups, Sailboats. The last entry is as follows:
Kit Keel: 52.75 oz.
Readyset Keel: 53.5 oz., 54.2 oz.
Kit Boat+ Keel RTS: 103.7 oz.
Readyset Boat + Keel RTS: 115.5 oz., 116.3 oz.
Class Minimum RTS: 104 oz.
Readyset Advertised Weight: 105.82 oz. approx.
Just recently got my Readyset Seawind. I am hopeing to get things out to allow me to do the mast compression strut for the boat. My issue is the keel post is not u threading and just seems to be free spinning. I think I may be stuck having to get a new post set and cut the old one out. If anyone has suggestions that is better please let me know. Also think I will reinforce the keel pocket while it is free of things above it like the battery box.
Unless you have a carbon version Readyset there is no need for a mast compression strut or to reinforce the keel insert area. The original carbon kit version had a very weak fiberglass/resin deck which needed the reinforcement under the mast step. The new carbon Readyset is claimed to have a stronger molded deck but I have not seen one nor have I heard any reports from current owners as to the construction of this new version.
If the blue threaded tube for the keel rod is not unscrewing but is free spinning you should be able to insert a sharp edge under the top flange and prise or pull it up out of the outer aluminum tube and hence remove the interior structure.
Carbon Readyset hull with keel, rudder hatches and radio gear. 5 lbs 8.8 oz out of the box