Having started out in radio control with kits that basically have “bolt-on” aftermarket parts, I’m unfamiliar with the idea of starting from unformed/uncut bare parts. What I have is a set of plans that were developed in metric. Do I improvise and get the closest supplies to build this yacht?
ahh the joy of metric system :))
Living in Canada with the metric system in place I know I have had to convert measurements all the time( mainly for work). I did find a calculator at one of the office supply places and it will convert between the metric and the “old way”. Once I did a convert I then found the closest material to what I needed and used it.
Jeff
Alberta
In addition, what is recommended to seal a wood hull?
Don’t forget to have fun!!!
Hi tdonily
If your finished hull is tidily made then try coating it with West epoxy or the equivilent SP Systems product. Apply it with a small foam decorating roller after thinning it with about 5% acetone. Any orange peel effect can be taken out with 600 grit wet and dry and then auto cutting compound. Make sure you wash the whole hull with soapy water before rubbing down to remove any amine bloom which is a waxy film on the epoxy. Two or three coats can be applied <u>before</u> this washing and rubbing down as long as the coats are not allowed to cure before applying the next one. Do it while it is still just tacky.
Attatched is a photo of my Kite with this finish.
Cheers
Ralph
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Yet another issue that came to my attention. What do you recommend to protect the epoxy from UV rays? Oh the joys of being a newbie
Travis
OK, USA
Don’t forget to have fun!!!
this is a good question
i am also new to epoxy. i have not heard of problem with uv. i have a sub built using mgs resign, (btw) i would highly recommend this product. it is expensive. but i have found it worth every penny) for coating the inside of the hull. I assume you used balsa. just put a lite coat or resign or if you want to be a bit inventive . I used varinsh. it is waterproof and cheap
cougar
benn building hulls now for 15 yrs
long live the cup
<blockquote id=“quote”><font size=“1” face=“Verdana, Arial, Helvetica” id=“quote”>quote:<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”>Originally posted by tdonily
Yet another issue that came to my attention. What do you recommend to protect the epoxy from UV rays? Oh the joys of being a newbie
Travis
OK, USA
Don’t forget to have fun!!!
<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”></font id=“quote”>
An opaque paint will work fine and Krylon from Wal-Mart sticks to epoxy. Be sure to rough the surface slightly. If you want a clear (sorta) finish to allow wood to be seen, you will need to use a marine varnish (or polyurethane) that contains UV inhibitors.
Sunlight over time (speeded up with heat) will break down epoxy until it looks an ugly yellow (like an old cream colored computer). Eventually it will begin to flake off, much like regular varnish or polyurethane will do.
If you buy a “Marine” grade varnish, they contain these inhibitors. Also it may be labeled as “Spar Varnish”. You will not really have a clear coat - more like a see-thru honey color when done. Figure around $10-$12 for a quart (estimate)
For information on epoxies, visit the west-system site (http://www.westsystem.com/), all the info you need is there.
As for UV protection, you can use the 207 finishing hardener for the last coats, it?s not the best solution (painting the hull) but it provides come protection.
Gio
unless you intend to leave you rc sailboat at the docks all the time,you dont need the uv protection
<blockquote id=“quote”><font size=“1” face=“Verdana, Arial, Helvetica” id=“quote”>quote:<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”>Originally posted by Ed Morales
unless you intend to leave you rc sailboat at the docks all the time,you dont need the uv protection
<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”></font id=“quote”>
Ed - I would amend your post as follows, based on my experiences. Epoxy, over time, goes from a honey color, to a greenish color to a yellow and finally to an opaque cream that is just plain “ugly” - without being exposed to the sunlight.
I have some mouldings that I made that are about 7 years old, and they have taken on the funky yellow color. This is a part of the curing process - not UV degradation - but it seems to be slowed/stopped when coated with spar varnish.
Regardless of size, one still has to be cognizant of dark colors, hot sunlight, and post curing/softening of epoxy. Gougeon Brothers, as well as most epoxy manufacturers specifically recommend a pigment be added to epoxy. The lighter (read “white”) the better. The new WEST clear coat is a product I haven’t yet used, having been developed since I left Michigan. As Gio noted, this might have more UV inhibitors built in, but also as Ed points out, if you are keping the boat indoors (not in your car/truck/van) between sailing sessions, I think you should worry more about heat absorption by dark blue/black/green paints than UV issues. As they absorb heat, they do have a softening effect on the cured glass.
I believe downunder (NZL) a product called “Duratec” manufactured by Hawkeye Industries in Marietta, GA web site www.duratec1.com is used as the final coat on clear carbon fibre mouldings, including masts.
I have had my carbon fibre F100 sprayed with it, cann’t remember what type it was, but when I get home for the weekend I will look for it.
I had made a call to West Systems to ask some general questions and included the part about UV protection. They suggested to use a captains varnish over the epoxy to protect it.
Travis
OK, USA
Don’t forget to have fun!!!
you can visit the west systems webpage and request for a free catalog and booklet covering all faqs and how to use their products.
ed