Hi all…
Dick, just build it!!!, the jif65 might be the easiest and cheapest hull for builders on the rg65 class due to the v shape hull. one afternoon and you will be painting the hull!!! even someone with 0 experince building can come up with a decent hull…
question 2: there are a lot of guys who sell keels and bulbs on brazil, spain, argentine and chile…all are between 30 and 50 USD.
q3: fiberglass or not, dope or diluted enamel in several coats…the boat works well the same way…
Prosails sails are made of several mylar panels or one single panel of poliester paper ploted with waterproof ink. the designs are almost anything you can come up with and the quality is great…
cheers!
German
Hi,
there ist also a small shop in Germany which sells keel profiles (aluminium), bulbs (manufactured according to your special needs, with brass core to protect the ends, surface finish on a lathe, milled slot for the fin), rudders (e.g. carbon made flex ruders), hulls, fittings, riggs, sails, …
Unfortunately, their website is in German only: http://www.rc-station.de
Another question:
Drawing for sail profile has this printed at top:
" … MYLAR - ESP = 0.5 MICRONES…"
Is this stuff really only 1/2 micron thick - or 1/2 mil - or ???
I didn’t think they made Mylar this thin… if it really is that weight (1/2 micron) a source of supply would be helpful.
Thanks
The thinnest that I’ve seen is 2 microns from http://www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk/ But. even that would seem far too fragile:confused: Something between 25 and 35 (35-50 g/sq/metre) microns is more like the lower practical limit, I’d have thought.
is 25 or 35 micron.
Maximo -
that makes a lot more sense. Maybe the digit was left off when drawing was titled. I will email you the PDF file from work tomorrow and maybe you can track down and make correction. It will help other new builders.
Thank you
Dick
Hi,
in Germany we usually use polyester spinnaker cloth with 31g/sqm (in Germany known as Icarex PC31) or so called UL-Mylar with around 20 g/sqm. This UL-Mylar is an open scrim laminate cloth (see picture).
Both can be purchased in small quantities from kite shops.
Polyester films as used with IOM are to thick for RGs except for B- or C-riggs. The thin foil used to wrap gifts (around 35 microns) is (for my opinion) difficult to handle, very sensitive and difficult to see on the water.
Icarex is quite expensive, and I’d be concerned with UL-Mylar for the aerodynamic surface effects that the scrim must produce. The florist/gift wrap is available coloured and cutting with a fine-tipped soldering iron and careful reinforcement makes sails made of it reasonably durable. I have only had one tear: trying to rig a boat in a gale force wind (there were gusts of approaching 100 kph, I later learned:scared:)
Hi,
for my opinion, the UL-Mylar is a good choice. If the sail is manufactured carefully, there is no disadvantage compared to Icarex. For my opinion, UL-Mylar is even better, becaues the profile is more stable.
I usually use UL-Mylar (and I won the last German Championchip with these sails 
)
I should :ziplip: 
After mistakenly posting in the wrong thread about RG65 sail material weights, I received several samples of a product that was unfamiliar to me. I think I may purchase a ream of 11x17 and give a try making up a set of paneled sails.
If you are not aware, Xerox had introduced a series of new paper products pretty much designated for the digital color process of their big, production equipment. I happened across it and wrote for a sample, which arrived today. They sent me various weights in swatch-book of about 4 inches x 6 inches.
The product is called Xerox Polyester Papers.
Product features… C2S (coated 2 sides) matte coated * Smooth finish * Resistant to water, oil, grease, tearing, weather, wrinkling * Whites are 90+ bright * Paper can be purchased in the following caliper ranges: WHITE ONLY in 3.7 - 4.7 - 7.7 - 10.7 - 14 mil. COLORS in 5 mil only.
The lightest weight, WHITE 3.7 mil (125 g/m^2) is very thin and light weight, but doesn’t seem to be translucent. This weight also comes in larger sizes of 11x17 - 12x18 - 14x20 This material is now being used in children’s books since pages can’t be easily torn. Since it can be printed on each side, single panel sails or sail panels could be decorated with graphics and artwork and probably printed by laser. Colors they sent are pastels of very light yellow, blue, pink and green. (think of carbonless multi-part paper colors).
I will be able to obtain a sample ream through work, and will “borrow” a few sheets to play with. To print on a completed panel sail, one might have to resort to screen printing, since the draft would prevent panels from laying flat. If one were to pre-print panels before cutting and assembly, being able to line up the artwork might be a challenge.
My plan is to give it a test, try printing on it, and then I will be doing a technical article for AMYA Model Yachting magazine. I will also post a short version of what I find. Stay tuned - and if you are familiar with the product, please PM me here and let me know your thoughts.
:graduate:
It might be better for your bigger multi-hulls, as the weight is over 2-3 times as much as that Maximo recommends for the RG65.
I’m going to make panelled sails from gift-wrap at 50 g/m^2, which I have used for bigger boats.
Hi all…
Dick, regarding the poliester paper, we use it here for our RG’s but the ones we get here is 30, 40 or 50 g/m2. It is specially designed for technical, architectural or engineering drawing so any shop selling office and technical drawing stuff might be well stocked on this kind of papers (probably you already knew it… )
For the big boats (1m, M and others), we use the same poliester paper but in thicknesses between .05 and .07mm (50 to 70 g/m2).
I do think that the one you have in 125 g/m2 is too thick for an rg (sail will be too stiff)…
Cheers
German
Hi,
I use 20g/sqm material for the standard rigg. My B-rigg is from 40g/sqm material, but only because I had a little bit of this material available for testing. I believe that the lighter materials can be used in any winds as long as the boat is still sailing and not flying
Lighter sails mean less top weight …
Enough of the flapping lips and inquiring minds … time to get busy.
While I still haven’t decided on sail material yet ( some good info and sources have been provided) I have decided to make the move and get to building.
First I chose the JIF 6.5 plan - for a variety of reasons - the main one being an easy to build first boat.
Unfortunately, I had the plans laying about and am now committed - not only will I be building this as my first boat, but will also be starting on a parallel build of an additional three. I will probably be about two steps back on the additional three to make mistakes only on one - not all of them. Why three? Well, son, grandson and (future) son-in-law. We’ll have our own family fleet! Having chosen the hard chine design consisting of only 4 precut panels for the hull, the effort for four will be much less than if I was strip building a round bottom hull for each one.
I’m going with balsa and have selected one thickness heavier than recommended. Thus 2mm has become 3mm (or US equivalent) as example. Will be able to tell if I can lighten up on the others, once hull is basically fabricated with sides, bottom and stations.
Attached are the first photos - about a total of two hours printing the plan set, pasting the “tiled” drawings together, laying out templates and cutting/sanding to final shape and size. In the photo, they are just standing on their own. When ready to start adding the sides and bottom (upside down build for hull) they will be hot glued to building board so they can be easily removed to work on inside once hull panels are fastened in place.
After dealing with the big 1.2 meter multihulls, this is really a convenient size. I can see why they are so popular elsewhere in the world. At about 25 1/2 inches LOA it will be an easy-to-transport boat.
Will post more photos as we go along.
hi
Why the JiF? yes its easy to build. But the Sea Bug would be much better. It seems to sail better and the building wouldnd be much harder.
kind regards from germany
Sven
4 shaped panels instead of six. Less likely of mismatch when hull panels are cut by a 10 year old.:scared:
Maybe next time
About 1 1/2 hours worth of work tonight and I’m to a point where hull side panels are rough cut and taped into place against the bulkheads. Most of the time was consumed by laying out and cutting the panels, and fitting and beveling the bulkheads to allow the panel to sit firmly against the full thickness of the bulkhead. I still must mark and then trim down the height of the panel to lie flush with the top of the bulkhead. Once marked I can scribe a line full length and sand down to the line.
Hull sides are held in place with temporary tape. Final photo is a bottom hull panel section (white paper template) laid in place to verify length and general shape. The two bottom panels will be matched along the keel line allowing the chine location to protrude. After gluing in place the panel will be sanded back to be flush with the side panel. At this point in time, I am thinking I will add a very small radius fillet at all panel and bulkhead intersections. I can then add the support structure for radio gear and keel trunk and rudder shaft. Then interior will receive a thinned coat of epoxy resin to waterproof the balsa.
As a matter of interest, the electric power boaters just do as you are going to do: let thinned epoxy into the balsa. Typically, there’s mayhem at the buoys, but even with high-revving electric motors and props, they seem to stand up to the abuse well.
Hi Martin,
Did you progress your Apsara hull ?
I’ve been sailing mine for a few months now and mùay assist if you like
A+
Calou