Hi Dick:
Keep up the good work, some shops had items “out odf stock” so I guess many people are building a lot.It happens here in Chile, many people building and some others looking to foreign companies to buy a RTS boat.
The sailboat bussiness i started has been growing little by little, some skeepers are using my panelled sails in their Victorias, adnnd few IOm ULY are using mine too. This weekend or the next I will use for the first time panelled sails for a IOM, As they were made by me and looks great…I think they will show a nice performance too.
Máximo:
I hope to see your boat at the Sudamerican Championship. i am planning to arrive to Pucón on wensday noon to help Rolf and Mr. Roessner on thursday and set up the details in my 1 meter. The race field looked great last time I sailed there, probably we will use the most of the time rig A.-
Could you tell me what the sq cm of the sails are for the JIF-2? I built according to your plans except that I made the horrible mistake of using plywood for a keel. It swelled and split the hull. What type of aluminum is stiff enough for the keel?
The boat is fabulous in light airs especially. I’ve been able to out-sail some larger boats with the JIF-2.
I use aluminum 6063 or (if you found) “Dural” I don’t know the word in english, is the aluminium use to make planes.
the sq cm of the sails = 2250 cm2. the max. for the class rules.
All common aluminum alloys are the same stiffness. They may have different strength, fatigue, and corrosion properties, but they are all approximately the same stiffness.
Not that I could tell you what size and shape are stiff enough.
I’ve built 3 full sized boats out of plywood without running into much trouble. And I’m told it is OFTEN used for the keels of model boats. Perhaps the type you used wasn’t waterproof? Try cutting off a little piece and boiling it in water. Luan plywood is often no good for water exposure. Of course, even if it passes the boiling test, plywood should be sealed. I made a plywood daggerboard (southern yellow pine) that got a bit rough, although it didn’t fall apart. On the other hand, a boat someone else built that I owned got a bit of snow in it, and the luan started to fall apart.
Well - a few moments of “stolen” time, and I finished up the interior radio compartment of “DIRTY DEEDS” - a JIF65 hull design.
I’m not sure how those FOOTY guys manage to get their fingers, hands, and parts into those tiny hulls … but this one was a bit of a challenge. Managed to get stuff in the approximately correct location for balance and the photo below was taken from the stern looking forward into the center of the hull around and behind the keel trunk. I added some labels to help identify the items. Everything works, no interference of swing arms, push rods, main sheet or servo wiring - so time to button up the deck and complete the rig location. “As time permits” - of course!
If you think that’s tiny, try a radio installation in the following: http://www.polecataero.com/gallery2/d/947-2/20070516+-+pinko+-+01+-+fuse.jpg
FYI, I think those squares are about an inch. Maybe an inch and a quarter.
QUOTE=Dick Lemke;55723]
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I’m not sure how those FOOTY guys manage to get their fingers, hands, and parts into those tiny hulls … but this one was a bit of a challenge. snip[/QUOTE]
Well - Christmas Eve - alone home with the wife, kids doing their own Christmas stuff, new granddaughter doing just fine and starting to gain weight - so decided to give “myself” a present - “Time” to hide out for a while after the past hectic several weeks.
Tonite I had time to final fit the slightly oversize rear deck on DIRTY DEEDS boat (USA # 04) and then attach to hull in permanent fashion. Used slow epoxy plus silica powder to thicken, and over-applied on all horizontal surfaces of rear hull. I had made a stand/jig so I can simply place a small section of wood across mid section and gently clamp each side down. Then a clamp at the stern and some tape along edges where a bit of light was showing. Tomorrow when tape and clamps come off, I will be able to tell how much more filling I need to do. Probably will trim the deck overhang back to flush with hull - then fill any small gaps and finally give entire deck a few coats of clear finish. Then on to fitting the rig to the hull and assuring all lines are providing clearance and sufficient movement to handle sail positions
Merry Christmas to you bunch of sick, twisted sailors.
No.3 was originally based on the lines of Bantock’s Prime Number and was modified to fit the requirements of the RG65. Simply scaling a M-Boat would end up with to less displacement (roughly 750g).
The hull is made from two layers 105g/sqm glass fabric laminated with Epoxi resin in a female mould. She ist fitted with 450g lead on a 30cm keel fin, a Multiplex M-Link RX5 light receiver, a Graupner C261 rudder servo and a GWS IQ-200 MG for the sails. Using AAA cells for power suppply this results in a total weight of 850g.
The lines are drawn for a maximum weight of 950g, so the lead bulb can be increased to 550g for more wind.
She sails good. Tacking is ok, reaching is like on a tracks.
Speed - I do not know up to now, this will be shown by the first race.
Btw, why “No.3”? - it’s quite simple. She is my third RG-65 and 3 is a “Prime Number”, too
Nice looking boat. Hope it performs to your expectations. Blew the dust off one of my incomplete boats and started working on it yesterday once again. Strange how cold weather, snow and ice takes enjoyment out of building. Added last coat of paint for hull, need to varnish deck and apply decals - then go for first sail. Now that I have the “bug”" (urge) to keep going, the car will be outside the garage, and I will be inside where I have elbow room.
Wow - didn’t realize this project had been strung out for so long! Well, most of the work on “DIRTY DEEDS” is done, and my son-in-law will soon have his own boat to sail. He has been very patient, but then I guess “new” son-in-laws may be that way. It took a while to balsa strip the deck, but blame is on me for sidestepping the project completion too many times.
I took some photos tonite, and realized I still have a few items to attend to.
I need to …
…make/install a fabric hatch cover for the rudder hatch
…add some weather proofing (water seal) under main hatch
…trim off a lot of loose ends on various lines
…add a downhaul
…add a red waterline stripe (tape)
…recharge batteries
in order to meet the “splash date” for this RG65 this weekend, weather permitting. It will be the first outing for this hull/boat so will see if any areas I forgot to adjust. Still playing with a better way to make an adjustable connection for the jib-to-deck attachment. This Spectra line will work, but I don’t like it for holding knots - seems too slippery, and CA glue kind of defeats the purpose of adjustment.
Anyway - enjoy the photos, and if all goes well (it sails and not sinks) I will try to post some on the water shots. Maybe a few video clips if the boat cooperates.
You are so patient! This boat is complete all the way to including graphics and sail numbers. I can never stand the wait, so a new boat is tested with a primer paint finish, no sail numbers or any other cosmetic touches. Shoot, the last one went in without a real deck cover - just some packing tape.
Anyway, you have done a really nice job. Congratulations!
Eric - thanks - and I agree.
Since this is hull/boat #3 for me, I have photos of grandson’s boat (Hull#1) with packing tape only on the front deck - just for testing. Once it proved viable, I had no reason to test further.
Well - water tested this weekend - very light wind on Saturday, much more on Sunday. I forgot to epoxy mast base pin in place so it slid up the mast. Without the locator pin, I declined to sail in heavy wind, as I was concerned mast might kick out to one side, and I would have lost the rig = swim/kayak/boat to retrieve.
I did find a couple of updates I need to do. Mast base is one, and I need to add a vang, as even in light winds, mainsail twisted off way too much since I am sheeting from mid-boom. So will add vang, glue mast base pin, and then trim a bit off the top of the mainsheet post, since the boom would touch it and prevent swing to opposite side in a light wind tack. But - best of all - it floated and virtually NO water inside. Because the wind was so light, I declined to video - but once changes are made I will try a video again.
Hi Marc -
Right now, I’m using Claudio’s idea of a Spectra line instead of a fishing swivel. It allows me to get the club down closer to deck. Also, my jib is “fractional” so if I build a “B” or “C” sized rig, using the line I can run it back through a different screw-eye. Some of Claudio’s ideas are to have attachments below deck to bring jib even closer, but I was too far along to build in a small “well” to hold the jib attachment plate. I like the idea that I can quickly loosen the line. This raises the jib a bit - but also lets me add in weather helm if needed by letting the mast rake back. Loosen the jib attachment, tighten the back stay and I’m done. Don’t have to mess with the jib halyard or forestay tension at all. Thus I can move/adjust as desired. I don’t think I will need much fore/aft attachment locations since I hit it pretty well on first try. But - If I increase jib size, I will need to move rig aft and then might need the other jib attach locations.
Only maintenance should be line replacement at end/start of sailing season to assure there is no wear through, although there are no sharp edges on boom attachment point or through the screw eyes. Spectra line is 80 lb. test as well. Still wish I could find a good way to tie knots that didn’t slip. One bad thing is Spectra line seems very slippery. CA glue will work to hold knots, but then defeats purpose of a knot. Bowsies don’t seem to work really well - they work - but … I am going to check out some kite line instead of fishing line. It may be bigger in diameter and allow a better “grip” for tie offs.
take your screw eyes and turn the 90* you will only need 2. fore and aft. get some small Diameter Carbon tube or rod. small diameter fuel line. that is barely able to slip over the ends of the carbon. a split ring or similar that will slide over the rod but not over the fuel tubing… basically you are creating a small “rack” for jib…line from the club go through the split ring then to the deck with a bowsie adjustment. use the fuel line as stoppers, similar to the arrangement you won’t be able to slam the rig to the deck as much. but it would also make for an easy swap of sail. you would just need multiple carbon rods…
yup - did that on the rear boom - just need to match on jib boom. If you look close in previous photos, the rubber grommets are visible, but difficult to slide.
The mainsail boom (with tubing) slides much easier. I’ve added a closeup but you have to look close since tubing is clear - look for 3 shiny spots along main boom - one is almost above mainsheet post.
Conversion will be done when I de-rig it for winter. (or I’ll make son-in-law do it since it’s his boat.) :lol: