Thanks Gator and Claudio…
I didn’t download the Alinghi file as she is the arch enemy! 
I’m guessing that I cut the mast to suit my sail leading edge length as that dimension isnt there. No biggie.
I am ordering a set from Luca as soon as he sends me the details.
Cheers!
Goose
Goose,
You may be interested to a 72dm² sailing plan as this one :
Ciao
Claudio
If thats what you guys are recommending, then Great!
Luca… let me know how much it will cost for you to make one set of these sails.
Thanks!
Goose
Gidday Goose, I’m fellow Kiwi living in Germany and now keenly following your ETNZ AC 120 build.
Just finished 6 months trying to find a half decent sailing boat in TT ETNZ version which I finally nailed after heaps of mods … don’t go near it mate !
Claudio D design in the new AC 120 class is the only way to go, I’m currently gathering info to build my own ETNZ AC 120 and look forward to watching your progress.
Gillies 150 inspired me further and I will take the opportunity to pop down at the next AC 120 regatta in Italy to learn about these beautiful yachts.
Wishing you all the best 
Gidday K1W1…
Thanks for your (first) post. It’s good to know that my decision to bypass the TT was a good one.
As you know, I’m still in the information gathering stage until I get the .dxf’s from Claudio and then the build will start… being an aircraft guy, this is all new and exciting.
Gillies 150 is an awesome size and I’m still tempted but common sense tells me to go with the 120… I’m sure I will enjoy it just as much.
Maybe we can collaborate on the construction and build them at the same time or something… when are you looking to start your build?
Cheers!
Goose
Hi Goose, I’m in the information gathering stage as well and it’s good idea to have collaborative construction, two heads are better than one as they say :zbeer: and with the wealth of knowledge in this forum hopefully can’t make too many mistakes.
Unlike you I have not seen AC 120 in the flesh, hence the thinking of tripping down to Italy or France (not too far from where I live) and getting first hand feel and talk to some experinced AC 102 skippers there.
Learnt my lesson not to go into a project like this blind, but I’m convinced 101% this is the right project.
I’m just about ready to start any time, have down-loaded PDF plans and just need to find output device to print them at 1:1 scale, like yourself I’m going for 1:20
Will let you know when I have plans printed
Hi again…
Good stuff. Although my info is being gathered for mostly local suppliers (this drives me crazy in Canada) we can sure talk about choices of equipment, sizes, and like you say, with the experts like Claudio in here, processes that will result in a nice boat.
Whoa! Nope… I haven’t seen the AC120 in the flesh, Gillies sent me some pictures and all the others I have seen are in here and another website.
Originally I wanted to double the size of the TT but couldnt find any easy way to do it short of buying one, scaling it up and building it. I’m glad I didnt do that now that I have done a lot of research on building model yachts.
The 120 fits my need for a patriotic yacht that will give my much happiness sailing for those days where crashing planes just isnt on the books
Claudio is emailing me the .dxf (AutoCAD compatible) versions of the pdf you have so I can fiddle around in AutoCAD to get what I want. I like to build that way. He has had some computer problems but it sounds like he will be back up shortly.
We are at the same stage… lets go for it!
Cheers
Goose
Understand what your saying about local suppliers, at least living here in central Europe I can get my hands on most things fairly easily, so if there is something I can help with there, let me know.
This will be my first scratch build, I’m formally a big boat off shore sailor that has migrated to RC kit boats over last few years due to being landed locked to forfill my passion of sailing. Tried aircraft for a little but had more crashes and rebuild time than flying time so gave it a miss.
Have 4 RC sailing fleet currently the last being TT ETNZ which just about turned into just about a total rebuild, anyway I wasn’t going to let it beat me, after that experience it’s was either IOM or the new wave IAAC 120 and the Italians inspired me so much with theirs, it became a no brainer to go that way.
So pedal to the metal … NIKE ! lets just do it !
Cheers K1
Hi Everybody,
I’m back, most will be depending from my PC…
LITTLE OT = 1st clash of power supply block and 2nd, once back home, I have accepted the recurrent “Windows Updating”. Poor me ! at the automatic ‘restart’ the PC was totally blocked again with a window message : ‘Windows File missing ! Restore file to continue…’
Back to ‘doctor’ of course ! that was obliged to reinstall over the total XP programme.
In this funny game, I lost the full Coreldraw software and several recents files atached to it.
Total cost 75$ .
Fortunately I have a back up hard disk on wich, almost every day, I store my work. END of STORY with a recomendation : be carefull with Windows Updating !
Having said that, my drawings in PDF files can be printed directly to 100% scale.
I generally use two sort of printer function from Sowedoo or by Foxit Reader that can be freely downloaded as PDF files converters and readers. Here an example showing the printing windows :
When you call for a print the above window open and you can adjust the printer scale .
In the picture by default is at 96.73%, but with the fonction + / - can be adjusted to 100%
My “frames” drawings are all in scale 1 :1 , therefore using the factor 100% you get the right dimension printed on an A4 format. My printer is an old HP Photosmart 7350.
Try one of these free software, for me is much easier than to use the AutoCad :
http://www.fileheap.com/software-easy-pdf-converter-download-30707.html
http://www.foxitsoftware.com/pdf/reader/
Let me knows …
Cheers
Claudio
PS ; If you wish to start building togheter the ETNZ, I suggest to open a dadicated tread called ETNZ AC120
Hi K1…
There is some weird parallel universe thing going on here lol. Cheers for the offer to get stuff, might call you on that one.
Hi Claudio…
Sorry to hear about your computer troubles, I work in the business and understand your pain… good to hear your back up and running.
The main reason I was wanting the CAD files was to ‘offset’ the profiles to cater for the 3mm planking which I would then print out and glue to the plywood before cutting them out.
If I simply scale the print then the overall depth of the hull is reduced also.
I could trace the pdf’s inside AutoCAD but that will take a little work, so no problem if you don’t have the dxf’s… anyone else out there got a copy of the CAD ready files?
I will start a new thread, thats a good idea…
Thanks a lot
Goose
Hi Goose
let me knows the planking thickness you want to use and I can redraw the frames as you wish
Personally I use Samba/Obeche wood strips in 3x5mm and 3x7mm of a lenght of 100cm.
About 50 pieces are needed for the hull.
So may I present the frames with finished dimensions and the inner contour of 3mm or else.
I do not reccomend to use 2mm thick because there is a risk to have deflection under hand pressure during sanding.
Claudio
Hi Claudio and thanks for your quick reply!
I have no idea where to get samba or obechi here in Canada, but planned to use a semi-hardwood that is supplied by my local model shop. I don’t know what type of wood it is, but it is much stronger than balsa and should be ok for the sanding issues you mention. Thanks for that.
Canada still uses imperial measurements :rolleyes: so I need the frames offset by 1/8" (3.175mm).
I really don’t want to impose work on you which is why I was after the DXF’s but if your ok with it, then thanks a lot.
I started a new thread as you suggested and will move over there when the construction begins.
Cheers
Goose
Goose ,
in Montreal there is Olivier that is manufacturing some IACC120 models .
This is what I was reading on the IACC 120 Cup :
“Thank you for joining the Facebook group for IACC120 development in Canada, and North America! For anybody who is interested, lookup “IACC120 Class RC Sailing - Voile RC Classe IACC120” on Facebook, anybody can join. I am trying to start a group to spread awareness of the exis…”
I will ask him to get in touch
Claudio
Hi Goose,
the wood usually seen in Canadian hobby shops, other than balsa, is bass wood.
John
Hi John…
No, I meant the pre-stripped stuff… its quite dark and has long straight grain… its the color of a light redwood.
Update: So it seems I cant get enough of that either so I’m resigned to ripping my own from stock… get into that today
Cheers
Goose
I have stripped western red cedar on my table saw with good results. If you have not ripped thin stock before, the trick is to make a zero clearance throat plate.
Excellent… thanks for that.
I’m off to make such a beast.
Goose
Valley Woodworking:
http://www.valleywoodworking.biz/
has, in the past, supplied very good aged cedar strips to myself and other builders.
Cheers,
Earl
Sorry Earl,
this wood is not adapted for this type of model construction - too hard ! and the splinters/nails are not pleasants under the skin !
I used as replacement of Spruce for mine main Boom for the mahogany Dragon (3.6meters long) , fortunately I have eloctromecanical tools even with that I managed to catch a bad splinter !
Cheers
Claudio
Er, I think we might have a bit of a terminology problem here. Here’s a good summary of the wood I was talking about (from http://www.leaky-boat.cz/Wood%20species.htm)
Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata)
Western Red Cedar is a softwood native to parts of North America which is also grown in parts of Europe and the Pacific. The heartwood, which is a light straw shade, is lightweight but relatively strong and durable. The timber is known for its straight, fine grain, works easily and glues well, all of which makes it an ideal timber for strip planking small watercraft, including canoes. When exposed to sunlight the unprotected timber fades to an attractive grey colour, not unlike teak. The timber has a natural aroma which makes it particularly pleasant to have in the workshop.
It is also lightweight, water and rot resistant. Thom McLaughlin, who teaches at the WoodenBoat School, regularly makes Vintage Marblehead hulls that weigh about 22 oz (620 grams).
Cheers,
Earl