ok, there we go…
I finally decided to re-paint my Seawind[:-angel]

I first tried wet sanding the whole thing with 600…dang, it didn’t work, went then to 400…same…so I tried 180…was ok !

So first I used 180 to get the “old” paint away, then 400 and finally 600!


After 3 hours of wet sanding, the result:

I was planning to use Krylon colors…but heard that Krylon wasnt the way to go?!

Any advices?

Oh and btw, the hull is made in ABS…



_/ if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! _

You have your hull sanded… just depends on you and how much work you want to put into it.

You have to decide if you want to prime it or not. You will hear arguements for both ways. If your hull is in pristine condition after the sanding… I would probably give it a light sanding with with some 320 - 400 wet/dry (VERY LIGHT) just to give the surface some adhesion…(600 might leave you a little too slick to adhere) nothing more. If your hull is NOT perfect, you might want to use a primer with some fill capability to help you out here.

When sanding the hull… you are looking for grip, NOT material removal, then wash it well with soap and water, and some type of degreaser… DAWN dish detergent is a good choice. YES you have to use something to degrease the hull… sanding will NOT do it… only smears anything still on the hull all over it.

Now you have to decide if you want to prime it or not. If you do… make sure that you prime coat is all correct and smoothed out before painting. If you need to sand… this is your last chance.

Krylon or not Krylon… I say use it… and you will be just fine. Practice on something else first to get your stroke down, and make sure that your temperature is not going to get you crosswise… because it might be a litte cold where you are located if I remember correctly. I was never in Japan that it was not cold… heheheh… Let it sit in a good warm place for AT LEAST 48 hours. Put the coats on lightly… don’t EVEN try to get it on in one quick session. Put it on… and look at it… go check your email… come back hit it again… then go eat a sandwich… then come back and decide if you want to hit it one more time.
The more patience you use… the better your results.

Then when you have let it cure AT LEAST 48 hours… longer would be better… then you can wet sand it and polish it out again. This is all kinda “iffy” because of temp and cure. I can’t really say what your conditions are… but cold and moisture make it tough to get the good hard cure that you will need.

600 wet sand, and then a good polish/compound… and you will have a mirror finish. If you use the 3M PERFECT-IT III system… you can’t miss. I LOVE that stuff. It IS NOT CHEAP… and you will have to find a quality paint store (auto/aircraft/boat) that carries it… -or- hit the net and search for 3M Perfect it III -05937 compound and -05933 polishing glaze. You won’t need the final phase (Finesse-it II) Then… if you clear coat it… you will save it from some early damage from scratches, but you run the risk of orange peeling the clear coat. Your call.
If you do… you can polish it out the same way… but it is just another pain to deal with.

If you want to go the cheap way… you can shoot on the Krylon, and take your chances. If you get good with it… you can get it on and it will flow out extremely well for a can of paint, you might be able to get a quality finish out of it it you practice a lot before you shoot it on your boat. I am not that good… and I can’t take a chance on maybe getting it right or wrong so I just plan on polishing everything. I use the Krylon for the guys that want a paint job, but don’t want to pay for one.

The worst thing that can happen is… you have to sand it off and start over.

Good Luck, send us a pic when you are finished.


THANK you so much…that was a “darn” good way to explain things! again thanks…and I will let you know


_/ if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! _

Wis -

when using Krylon - early painting stages isn’t too important, but late in the game, I always try to spray from wet to dry. It helps reduce overspray on the wet paint. The wet paint can then “flow out” a bit and if lucky (good) you can minimize any final sanding.

On a good day with low mositure and warm temps, I can spray a gloss finish most of the time - and not have to sand or clear coat. Of course, clear coating, as Larry noted will help protect from minor scratches.

ooops…warm day…this will involve a paintjob inside!!!


_/ if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! _

If you paint inside, and you start feeling really great about the paint job, and then you start feeling really great about everything in general… you forgot to OPEN THE WINDOWS… I hope you have something that will evacuate the fumes… DONT light a candle to burn them off… (I hear that one every now and then) watch out for open flames… (friends that smoke, pilot lights, surprise birthday cakes, etc…) and remember that after a few passes… you won’t notice the difference… but everyone else in the house will love you for it. If you live alone… well… you be asked what aftershave you are wearing on your next time outside.
Eau De Sherman Williams.

ATLEAST… do your clean up outside. I just went out and tried using the KRYLON FUSION brand paint… IT BONDS TO PLASTIC ! ! ! so… they claim. Don’t know yet… but it will be out in the Good ol Texas Sun tomorrow and the next day… and then I will buff it out.

Dick… thanks for mentioning the wet to dry… I didn’t know that was what it was… but I was getting lucky every now and then when I was painting and getting a superior finish. I just wrote it off to superior skill with the can… heheheheh…


sorry, but is exactly “wet to dry”?

PS: nop I dont live alone! [;)] I smell [:p]troubles coming …I knew that quitting smoking would save my life…one day


_/ if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! _

Wis -

good question and apologies for the “tech speak”.

Basically be aware of where overspray is going. Keep nozzle pointed toward unpainted area so most overspray is directed at unpainted areas and any falling on yet-to-be-painted part of the hull will eventually be covered by the actual paint.

On an upside-down hull, I begin painting at gunwales and move upward, trying to keep all overspray going up and over the top of the keel, and minimizing any falling down on just painted surface. Keep painted area wet, and nozzle pointed toward dry area of hull. If painted area remains glossy - you are doing fine. If it gets dull as you move on, you are probably leaving overspray on top of the fresh paint. Always try to have overspray blow away from the just painted area, so you are leaving behind a “wet” surface and are painting (nozzle pointing toward) a “dry” area … hence “Wet-to-dry”. If you want to leave a satin finish (deck perhaps) just reverse the theory, and allow overspray to fall on freshly painted area which will leave it dull and without shine.

Hope this helps?

you know you can get stoned on fibreglass fumes, i have experienced whilst doing it at my new job.

I see said the blind man to the crippled nudist who put his hands in his pockets & promptly walked away.

stoned teenager voice mmm acetone…ahhh styrene…good sh**!

Luff 'em & leave 'em.

ok I went to MANY different shops and, this is what I can have :

soft99 (Japanese maker)
or Holts (

Any opinions?


_/ if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! _

Hey Wis,

Even the “translated” site didn’t have a lot of English on it… and the 2nd site didn’t have a lot to chose from.

If you HAVE to use those two, I would get some of the aerosol paint and try it on something other than your boat that is a plastic surface. Clean and prep as you would your boat so you have something to compare with.

If you do NOT have to use those… is ordering something over the net an option for you?

If that is not something you can or want to do (and wait on… don’t know how fast your service is over there) Another option would be to write to some manufacturers and ask for an equivliant product in the Japanese market.

Last option… would be to CHARGE ! and just put something on and see what you get… if it looks OK… then continue… if not… well… MY PERSONAL MOTTO “awww… shucks… well… we can always sand it off and try again”


Ordering something from the net isnt a problem…just ordering paint, then shipping…a bit overkill, no?

will check more



_/ if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! _

Wis - isn’t there any auto body repair shops over there - or are all of you very safe drivers? Seems over here we have several in every town, and sometimes they will paint for you when doing a replacement fender or whatever. Little if any cost if it is paint they already have in the gun and are using up - but if special color, they will charge a bit for time to clean gun, mix paint, spray and clean gun.

was thinking about that…checking [;)]


_/ if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! _


Also try hardware stores (place where you could buy hand tools, or garden tools or house paint) or maybe try to find a automotive spare parts store.

Haven’t read every post but you should sand the hull with around 240grit paper which is going to give the paint something really good to “hang” on to.

Remember to sand with 400 grit paper between coats to take the shine off, several light coat’s is much better than one heavy coat.



Thanks for the advice…

The SW is now ready to be painted…I wrapped it up with plastic so its safe from dust!


_/ if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! _

Dust is no big problem as you can wipe it off with a tack-rag before starting to paint.

Fingerprints and oily fingers <u>are</u> the problem. Buy some inexpensive vinyl gloves so you can handle the hull without leaving smudges. Usually paint will cover all but the greasiest of potato-chip fingerprints, but best to be safe. There are some pearl-coats and a few metallics that hate fingerprints too. Usually the darker colors seem to be more sensitive. For some reason, the lighter colors just don’t show through - or else my eyes aren’t detecting it.

Tack-rag = cotton fabric, make into a pad and dampen with mineral spirits. Squeeze or wring out to dump excess fluids so rag is just “damp” - not soaking wet. Then wipe over entire hull surface-to-be-painted and let evaporate. Proceed to paint.

Don’t use compressed air to blow off dust unless you have a good in-line filter to remove moisture and oil from the compressor. In humid weather, I can see moisture from compressor hose in summer, so I add a second filter just in front of gun/air brush and that usually takes care of the problem. Seems oil-less compressors spew moisture (water) and oil-sump compressors seem to have a fine oil mist in the lines. Be aware - even if you can’t see it.

Thought this is a good place for a reminder to check the condition of air from your compressor.

Man i found this thread about 2 days toooo late
I deicded to paint my Victoria. someonhear had very good instruction for the novice painter sucj as my self. prepared the hull, rudder,keel and bulb. 1st coat 2nd sand clean 3rd coast 4 th sand and clean. looking great

so good I and some transfer and add a second colour make it look snappy.Looking just dandy for a noivce thougth I will finish it off with some clear laquerso Now for MY mistakes I used newpaper to protect from over spray,on the bench I was working at a warmish day hands were a bit sweaty yeah U got it sweaty hands and newspaper dont i have high glossed finger prints on my paint job.
other mistake is the clear laquer rectioned to the white paint not the coloured paint and blsitered. not sure how that happen, would it be becuase it was a cheap brand or and not same brand of of coloured and laquer?
So anyways for the newbies like me dont use newspaper.

Making the world a better place One yacht at a Time

<blockquote id=“quote”><font size=“1” face=“Verdana, Arial, Helvetica” id=“quote”>quote:<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”>Originally posted by Little Vic

Man i found this thread about 2 days toooo late
Looking just dandy for a noivce thougth I will finish it off with some clear laquer <hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”></font id=“quote”>

AArrrgghhhh - Nooooo !!!

Even if you are using the same brand of paint - stay completely away from lacquer !

Most paints are enamel or acrylics. If you overspray them with lacquer the first coat will orange peel or bubble. Enamel/Acrylic over lacquer = OK (usually) Lacquer over enamel/acrylic = NEVER !

Enamels and acrylics usually “air dry” (albeit I acknowledge some chemical reaction is taking place) Lacquer has very volitle thinners (lacquer thinner) which will attack plastics, styrenes and enamel/acrylic based paints.

Enamel/acrylics are sprayed so the gloss happens at time of spraying. True lacquers require rubbing/buffing/polishing to achieve the gloss. Remember the good old days when expensive cars were painted with lacquer and the bodyshop guys went home “half (fully) stoned” from the fumes?

Little Vic - perhaps you intermixed the names in your post - so this response might not really be applicable - but if what you wrote is true, then your paint job was like mixing oil and water…not possible. Two completely different kinds of paint which require two different kinds of thinners. Anything painted with enamel can eventually have paint softened and removed using lacquer thinner and elbow-grease.

That said, even the same paint can cause reactions. Sometims the primer from one company will orange-peel when painted over by a different company’s paint. The enamel third coat color difference can orange-peel the first and second coats of enamel sometimes - why? Because the different third coat color might have a bit too much thinner in it.

Always best to test spray for color, compatibility tests - and also to check the spray pattern if spraying from a can and not a gun or airbrush.

<u>Editorial comment:</u> How many hours did you put into building your boat - and now you are going to take a chance on messing it up using $ .99 spray paint instead of the $5.00 kind? Not saying cheap paint doesn’t work, but unless you have tested it and know how it works, to me it’s a big gamble. If you grab the cheapy paint, and it has a crappy spray head, you might as well “brush-paint” your boat.