You have your hull sanded… just depends on you and how much work you want to put into it.
You have to decide if you want to prime it or not. You will hear arguements for both ways. If your hull is in pristine condition after the sanding… I would probably give it a light sanding with with some 320 - 400 wet/dry (VERY LIGHT) just to give the surface some adhesion…(600 might leave you a little too slick to adhere) nothing more. If your hull is NOT perfect, you might want to use a primer with some fill capability to help you out here.
When sanding the hull… you are looking for grip, NOT material removal, then wash it well with soap and water, and some type of degreaser… DAWN dish detergent is a good choice. YES you have to use something to degrease the hull… sanding will NOT do it… only smears anything still on the hull all over it.
Now you have to decide if you want to prime it or not. If you do… make sure that you prime coat is all correct and smoothed out before painting. If you need to sand… this is your last chance.
Krylon or not Krylon… I say use it… and you will be just fine. Practice on something else first to get your stroke down, and make sure that your temperature is not going to get you crosswise… because it might be a litte cold where you are located if I remember correctly. I was never in Japan that it was not cold… heheheh… Let it sit in a good warm place for AT LEAST 48 hours. Put the coats on lightly… don’t EVEN try to get it on in one quick session. Put it on… and look at it… go check your email… come back hit it again… then go eat a sandwich… then come back and decide if you want to hit it one more time.
The more patience you use… the better your results.
Then when you have let it cure AT LEAST 48 hours… longer would be better… then you can wet sand it and polish it out again. This is all kinda “iffy” because of temp and cure. I can’t really say what your conditions are… but cold and moisture make it tough to get the good hard cure that you will need.
600 wet sand, and then a good polish/compound… and you will have a mirror finish. If you use the 3M PERFECT-IT III system… you can’t miss. I LOVE that stuff. It IS NOT CHEAP… and you will have to find a quality paint store (auto/aircraft/boat) that carries it… -or- hit the net and search for 3M Perfect it III -05937 compound and -05933 polishing glaze. You won’t need the final phase (Finesse-it II) Then… if you clear coat it… you will save it from some early damage from scratches, but you run the risk of orange peeling the clear coat. Your call.
If you do… you can polish it out the same way… but it is just another pain to deal with.
If you want to go the cheap way… you can shoot on the Krylon, and take your chances. If you get good with it… you can get it on and it will flow out extremely well for a can of paint, you might be able to get a quality finish out of it it you practice a lot before you shoot it on your boat. I am not that good… and I can’t take a chance on maybe getting it right or wrong so I just plan on polishing everything. I use the Krylon for the guys that want a paint job, but don’t want to pay for one.
The worst thing that can happen is… you have to sand it off and start over.
Good Luck, send us a pic when you are finished.
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