Presenting... the 'SS Footy Cleat'

For all of those chaps/guys who profess to hate bowsies, here is a workable way to be rid of a couple at least.

Graham
USA10 Kittiwake

Nice one Graham. Pity the new boat you’re building for me doesn’t need any! I presume the thing is tubular so that it just leads through, wraps round and locks?

EDITED: Sorry it does - on the outhauls and mast saddles.

I could glue one on the bow for a mooring line couldn’t I?

Graham

Would I trust ma boat t’ yin o’ them fangled things lad?

Yes that is the clever bit Angus… as seen in the first photo above and probably more clearly in the photo below.

The Cleat is a tube… the line first leads through the tube and then takes two winds around the cleat and the angle locks the turns against the ‘in’ line. In testing that is all it takes with the thread I am using. The half hitch (I think that is what it is) tidies up the loose end and adds that little extra security against possible loosening in a stronger wind.

Simple and effective…

Graham -

I’ve used that “idea” but with a brass tube, and we then run a bandsaw blade (or hacksaw) into one end to cut a thin slot that will act as a jamb cleat with the other end of the tube acting as fairlead. Also, for uses where strength is desired, we run a small wood screw through and into the backing surface (deck, mast, boom, etc.) Didn’t trust just glue, so that’s why we used a mechanical fastener.

I’ve posted it before, but here is a very lightweight turnbuckle that can be up or downsized depending on strength needed. This is simply a piece of brass tube, flatten and drill one end and thread the other and use a brass machine screw of same thread size. The shrouds, stays or what-ever are run through the hole at end of tube. Spacing of screw eyes determines the amount of adjustment (as well as thread length). The photo example is a 10/32 thread screw and the entire turnbuckle seen is just over an inch long.

Hello Dick… I did try a slotted tube first but I found that even in the plastic material the slot was quite destructive to the line once it was tight enough to work. I am using a high quality line by Stren, about twice the price of Spider Wire. So I went to this shape and find it to works very well without spreading or splitting the thread fibres. The tube is a Graupner product as part of their tube-in-tube pushrod system.

I do like the half turnbuckle idea.

Graham

Hey Buddy - … use whatever works for you. I use black Dacron fishing line, of decent size, so haven’t noticed the degradation of line… but I will now go and take a look - might find a surprise. :rolleyes: Thanks for tip.

Ta-ra-ra-bumptiay!

Some pretty exciting sailing has proved that the plastic tube cleat can do it’s job in wilder conditions. It’s always good to be able to replace a bowsie! If anyone wants to give these a try here are the dimensions…

plastic tube 1/8" OD
cut to 1/2" length
angle cut each end to give a base of 1/4"
sand a small flat on the base to help the cyano.

Cyano joint to carbon mast has proved robust so far. A very small brass screw could be used as Dick suggested. Drill the outer wall to clear the screw head so that the screw head ends up against the inside wall.

Graham

I don’t know how you’s source it/make it, but oval tube might be better, That we you’d reduce the gap filling demands on the cyano while increasing the area of the glue joint but preserve the sharp V that locks the twine.

Probably my overheated imagination.

I don’t know how you source it/make it, but oval tube might be better, That would reduce the gap filling demands on the cyano while increasing the area of the glue joint but preserve the sharp V that locks the twine.

Probably my overheated imagination.

Ah for those who hate bowsies and want fine tuning. I can go smaller.
Bob

Bob - that is beautiful.

Also I suspect rather expensive!

Seriously, for fine, short travel adjusters I agree. Footy cleat is better for greater travel, less precision

Bob:

…and you get those where?

–Doug

Very very nice Bob… I just picked up some Graupner turnbuckles (opposing thread type) to incorporate into an adjustable kicking strap. What you have there could work nicely too… great work as ever.

Graham

I make them. I have a serious background in jewelery and machining. Graham, I can make left/right too, they would be longer. Left hand taps are a bit pricey, tho. I doubt that price of these will be any different than the larger versions offered by other suppliers.
A few particulars: Overall length is, open 1.625", closed fully 1.125". The body of the turnbuckle is .125"
Bob