Powering a Hitec 5745MG sailwinch through the receiver?

For those who use that sailwinch(or maybe 5955/5995), do you power it through the receiver or via a Y harness?

Is there a risk of losing power if powered through receiver?

Or anything else?

Thanks for your answers.

According to the Reliability discipline and Failure Mode Analysis, more connections in serie exist , more the probability of Failure increase.
It Is up to you to verify eventually, redundant connections to avoid, as possible , a “single point of failure”

When I write “losing power” I mean lack of power in sailwinch because the receiver limits the intensity/voltage that the winch receives, not a connection problem.

Hi FRA3700

You are right to be concerned… (smile) I have heard that some receivers do not have circuit board tracks that can handle the stall current of anywhere up to 6 amps (16 for the RMG 380!!!). Ken Binks has investigated the high-end Futaba receivers (typically RP113i), and is satisfied apparently that they are OK. My RP113i has survived a long stall with the Hitec 5745 (the winch burned out!) but failed (melted!) when I stalled an RMG 380…

In fact, since then I got an answer from Hitec (my Rx manufacturer) and there seems to be no pb of losing voltage or intensity with my installation through the receiver.

But, in case of stall, I don’t now really…

I’ll try to avoid it, and I have a spare RX!!

Sorry having mis interpreted the loss of power you mention .

If you are concerened about drawing to many Amps, why not put a fuse in the circuit?

Lester, the RMG has a regulated 5v supply to power the reciever, why was this feature not used?

Go for the Y harness - Running through the RX, the big problem is that a high current draw servo can overheat the RX - Acts like your battery has died or a bad connection, but in actuality the Thermal overload circuits kick in and shut things down until it cools off.

a fuse box in a rc boat!
I’d love to see that!:dunce:

Hi Nev

My stupidity! I decided I could wire it up better than the way Rob Guyatt says to do it, and I was wrong… (smile)

Yup! I have a fuse fitted on the power lead between battery and servo.
I run a Hitec 5735 MG in my ISIS and have refined the fuse requirement to a 1.65amp fuse to protect it. If the fuse blows then you are still able to steer to shore. Havn’t had a fuse blow for over a year now and I sail every week on average in all winds.



And you use a Y?

what’s the ‘smallest’ fuse you could get for a model yacht? The smallest thing I could get is the 5mm car fuse, and you can get the one-shot micro inline fuses, (or make one from a 5mm fuse by soldering a fuse direct to the leads.)

Any other small, replaceable fuses?


I think it is a ‘Y’. I got the set up from ‘Kbits’, a UK outlet, as a ready to install unit complete with fuse carrier and switch. A club friend with an identical boat and myself experimented to see how low an amperage of fuse we could get away with in normal sailing in all winds. We were trying to protect our boats as we heard stories that a foul up of the sheeting system may cause a bit of damage because of the power and speed of the lever arm. 1.65 amp seemed to be the optimum.

The 5735 MG servo seems to be out of production now, superceeded by the 5745 MG. Can anyone comment on this change and/or how the change affects the performance.



Very interesting. So you mean that there is no more than 1,65 Amp in the servo lead? So no risk for the receiver, even without an Y.

A problem may appear in case of a sheeting problem, but if all this is well designed, i take the risk.

I have only the 5745, and it goes well with 5 elements.