just purchased a new nightmare F48[:-spin]
need some help with best measurments of where to place the foils, lengths of the foils, and where to place the mast, i would appreciate any advice for best performance.
Thanks
Hi,
“Nihau” as they say overthere,
Glad to hear the multis are growing in Asia…
Edit: oops the board doesn’t support trad Chinese
-Wis (aka Laurent)
<font size=“1”>_/ if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! _</font id=“size1”>
Seawind
MicroMagic #JPN 01
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<font size=“1”>Wis’ Web Wasted Site
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Nope - use the PM or email for “Idealist” !
Not much public info out there on the design. Sort of a set of hulls and you are on your own if experience with the Hawaii boat is any indication. I recall the owner over there having a heck of a time getting any rig info from the original designer.
Best of luck. Post photos as you proceed.
Dick Lemke
F-48 #US-06
MultiONE #US-06
Class 3 Landyacht #US-196
Minnesota, USA
nOcigar, measurements from my nightmare finished by Ian Sammis follow.
stern to front edge of foil: 22.5 in.
stern to front edge rudder: 2 in.
stern to front edge fore crossbeam: 28.125 in.
stern to front edge aft crossbeam: 4.125 in.
stern to front edge mast mount: 24.5 in.
foil and rudder are made from a carbon helicopter blade 1 11/16 wide
11 in. length for foil and 8 in. for rudder
This tri tacks on a dime and gives change.
Any more info needed just place it on this board, Clyde
thanks clyde. Thats exactly the information that i was looking for. I won’t be able to start building till my package arrives, but i will definatly post photos along the way and keep asking for advice haha. I’ll post again when i start building.
from what i’ve seen around, i think i will be the only multihull sailor in HKG for the time being. Hopefully from ppl seeing the boat when it’s done it will encourage more. It would be easier if they were sold as a building kit. This is the only HKG yachting site that i know of, http://www.geocities.com/aerotechnichk/sail1.html
and a few people race wind warriors around the yacht club swimming pool with fans.
Let me know if you have any questions during the construction process. I still own the original Nightmare molds and have many sets of hull shells already layed up and being stored in my garage. I moved to california 8 months ago and had to give up on my multihull models for awhile but now am back in Kansas with my garage! Thanks Clyde for sending him that information and hope you are enjoying your Tri.
Ian
back in hong kong from holidays. Starting building now. Whats the best way to join the hull halves together for the floats? by inserting the top half into the bottom half and epoxy? then filler and sand the outside edge??
I usualy add a thin blasa plank along the seam on both hull halfs and then put a track of Glassbubble/Expoxy along that line to join it. Works especially well when the halfs still are in the mould. You then just need to cut of the excess resin and that’s pretty much it. Makes a very thin seam.
When your hull halfs are already demoulded I would add some tape along both edges to avoid excess resin stick to the hull when joining.
hope this helps,
Marcus
Do not use very much pressure in the verticle plane as the hull can bulge at the seam. I used 1/64 ply strips about 3/4 in. wide and they worked fine. (purchased short kit from Ian as well as a finished boat). great work on the carbon or glass. Clyde
i think that the kit i have was originally purchased from Ian… Installed the rudder today, need to purchase a winch servo, anyone selling second hand? i know i will most likely end up buying a Gyuatt, but do you think its worth connecting 2-3 cheaper winch servo’s and threading the lines between them? (probably not).
Also another question, for the rig setup, is it better to have a swinging boom with main and jib attached, or having 2 seperate booms for each?
i will post pics up soon, once something is worth showing 
thanks
Perhaps the current building taking place might be a good sign of renewed interest in the class and boat.
Ian - thanks for returning. Nice to know you didn’t abandon us for good!
For anyone having a multihull - please spend a few bucks to register it with the Open Class of the AMYA. That way I can stay in touch with who is building/sailing. There are still two (* 2) very nice Championship Cups out there and available for award. We just need to have enough boats on the water to make up a Championship Series of races.
- 2 = one for F-48 size and one for MultiONE size class boats.
Dick , how about posting some of those Wahoooooo Multi photos , I love em’.
Steve
Big or little ones?
By the way - for what it’s worth - this discussion form format sucks - can’t embed photos - can bold, italicize, or undeline words, (basically no HTML code), no smilies, … Boooooo ! It’s a “Grandma” page !
Here’s a little one -------
Glad to see a new F48 being built. If you need a complete shroudless rig call up sailsetc in England and tell them you want the “Nightmare rig kit”. It’s very high quality and works really well on the boat. Clyde has this rig kit on his F48.
Ian
i am currently in discussion with the local agents for sailmakers, seeing if i can get a sail made on a sponsorship basis… i would however like to know, where i should roughly attach the stancheons on the outrigger floats as i want to reinforce that area slightly before sealing the hulls. Could anyone provide me with a measurement as to where install the attachments for stancheons on the outriggers?? thanks a lot
nOcigar, the rig kit that Ian talks about is great, the mast sits in a carbon sump with movement fore and aft but not side to side. The rig only needs a jib attachment and a backstay attachment and you are done. This works for allowing the alignment of the amas to not be influenced by the rig tension. The alignment is only dependent on the alignment of the crossbar/hull attachments. Very nice ( nice engineering Ian and Graham ). Clyde
any angle on the keel? should i make it straight down? or with a slight angle towards the back of the hull?
Straight down, be careful with vertical alignment side to side. Clyde