Keep in mind that when you add the deck - that whole structure will get stiffer due to it’s cross section shape. Try 2 layers of 2 oz. if you have it. I’m only using 2 layers of 4 oz. on the big F-48 multihulls… without foam core. If I’m leaving foam inside, 1/ 2 oz. works fine for a surface to fair prime and paint.
Personally, I don’t want to go down the Footy road of less weight. I think it is detrimental to any class by eliminating builders who can’t achieve that weight, and there by forcing home builders to buy from an ultralight builder if they aren’t that skilled at weight reduction.
I have more 2 oz. cloth coming in. I may also change lay-up resin. The stuff I’m using is a tad flexible, a characteristic that may not be useful in boat building.:rolleyes: Anyways, will keep experimenting with this hull.
I will be building myself a balsa RG-65 shortly. I like the multichine hulls. Just have to go thru the plans again and choose one. Gotta keep building…LOL
Hi,
I am not very familiar with ounces. Therefore I will give my experience in gramms …
Glass: No gelcoat, 1 layer 49g/sqm + 2 layer 105g/sqm are perfect. Hull weight around 65 g or even less
Carbon: No gelcoat, 1 layer 49g glass + 2 layers 93g carbon, hullweight around 60g. You can also leave the glass layer, than you will need a little more resin. The final weight is approximately the same.
Stiffness is more than enough with carbon even without deck, and still enough with glass, when the deck ist mounted. You do not need much stiffness, because the hull is only for keeping the water out. Keel box and mast trunk have to be stiff enough and must be well fitted to the hull…
Just got back into the swing of things and started framing out the decks on 3 of my hulls. Also, spent some time cutting out four rudders and two keels.
I am further ahead now, added a rudder post and keel box. After reading several posts regarding my hull, I have beefed up the keel box. Also, will be laminating another layer on the keel to thicken and stiffen it up some more.
While Dick was working on his hatch, it appears I was too.
Still have to cut out of the deck a rudder access hatch. Going to make sure I pull out a scaple blade, much sharper than an axacto blade. The pc. cut out from the deck will go back on flush.
Note dates of posts - they were in the early stages of RG-65 Class promotion he and I were making to get interest started in the class. Since then, most updates for the RG-65 Class are now being done within a specific forum set up for just the RG-65’s - scroll further down on the master list of forums.
As for this one, RoadToad (Sven) ran into some major family issues and while he has made several hulls from molds of his first hull and either sold or donated, he had to take a leave from building due to those family priorities. It is hoped he will be back sometime in 2010 - but not sure.
Thanks for the update Dick. I recently joined the Yahoo group for the class, is there another resource I should know about? I am thinking about building one, from the looking I have done, the class seems to be what I am looking for. Downside is nobody races them around me. The upside is, the club doesn’t care what anyone sails.
What type of sail control do these little guys need? A standard sail servo seems like an overkill, can you suggest one?
Hi. Send an email to rg65.info@gmail.com with your Snail mail address and we’ll send you our starter CD which has all the data you’ll need to build one.
how long of a servo arm can you use on this little guy? I’m still fumbling about looking for a good - but very small, servo to fit inside a 2 inch wide hull. This looks like it will, but I need about 2-3 inches of sheet line movement (I suppose I could go 2:1 ratio)
The arm length is 5 cm (2") with a double haul sheet to the swing rig. I just epoxied and whipped a length of carbon rod to one of the supplied servo horns.