Model 6 Meter

A guy I’m working for at the moment, building a full size 8 meter, found this in a junk shop. We’re pretty sure Its a 6 meter of 1930’s vintage. Bread and butter construction with a hull thickness of only about 5mm. It’s very fair and symetrical, whoever built it had some real skill.
I’ve found out all about the class which is more or less an UK only rule, so I now have a fair idea about the size of the rig to make it rate.
I’m just wondering if anyone out there has boats of a similar vintage who could take some pics of rigging details such as spreaders and terminals, and any suggestions on what wood would be authentic for the mast. I’m trying to convince the owner to let me do it up as an r/c boat, but still looking like a 30’s pond yacht.

There is a man around this forum called Earl Boebert. I’m sure he can help you out.

PM me and I’ll give you the email of a UK contact. The Six Metre class was centered in Scotland, with additional activity amongs Scots emigres in Canada and a very small following in the US.



This is the 6M owners association web site in the UK.

Let me intoduce myself I’m Bill Green and I’m the Technical Secretary of the 6metre Owners Association. Looking at your hull it has all the makings of being a 6m boat of the 30’s. 6metres are governed by a strict rule and is the only recognised class of model yacht that is a scaled down version of the full size. The scale is odd 1 and 2/3 " to the foot. Makes a boat which is about 60" long, inxthe region of 26lbs displacement and usually 1000 sq ins of sail. The full rule and other information is published on the UK Model Yachting Association web site. It can be found on Can I suggest that to take a look at the rule and then contact me. You will find the Rule hard to read and understand at first but believe me the picture does get clearer. On the surface it looks quite restrictive but once you get into it you will realise its beauty. It is a very cleverly crafted piece of work that results in a vast variety of hull shapes, all of which have full size appearance. The boats are ageless and do have a strong visual appeal and remain competitive for avery long time. Because the rule works so well there is very little diference in performance between the designs and so they lend themselves idealy to match racing.


Hi Bill, I think one of my freinds has been talking to you already about this boat, a guy called Jack?..
I’ve had a good look at the rule, I wrote an excel sheet to pump out the numbers, gave me a 1m high rig…neither I nore jack could see a problem (we’re both yacht design students who have been toying with the fullsize metre rules for a while). He got sent a copy of the official spreadsheet that when I put the nubers in gave it a 2.2m high rig, when the max rig height is around 1.8! I think it may be because I put the LWL value in the sheet as the actual waterline where it should be the value for 13mm above the actual waterline… The spreadsheet is a little unclear on this so I wasn’t sure.

What I was after by posting on here was to find some pics or drawings of the rigs on boats of the same period. On a fullsize 6 I would expect at least a single spreader rig with running backstays and jumper stays, but were the models as complex? Also what did the fittings look like?

Its turned out pretty interesting delving into this while working on a full size modern 8 metre by day, looking at the fulsize hull whilst knowing a bit about the rule makes it quite easy to see the designer’s thinking behind the shape.

I am danmed if I can find my copy or remember the author’s name, but the book is famous enough that you should be able to find a reference to it somewhere. The itle is (I think) Yacht Rigging and it was written c. 1950 by the head of the rigger’s department of Camper & Nicholson. It provids a ffinitive guide to the masting, rigging and deck fittings of racing boats from about 1930 onwards by somebody who was involved in the design and construction of e.g. the America’s Cup contenders Endeavour I and Endeavour II.

I know that this is not a good reference in itself, but it may prompt dsomeone else to remember more exact details.


Yes I have been in contact with your friend and without being patronising can I suggest that you read and understand the rule. You will also need to decide whether this model is a replica of a full size or whether you are restoring it back to model condition. If it is a replica then start looking at some of Uffa Fox’s writings or lok at photo’s of boats of the period. If uyou are at Southampton there will be plenty of reference works for you to use. If all els fails talk to some “old” boat builders and they will help. On the other hand model racing yachts are rarely replica’s, they are tracing machines in their own right and deserve being put back into original condition. The boat would have been Braine or Vane steered and would have been free sailing.
The slipper keel and skeg in front of the rudder provides directional stability which is required of a free sailing boat. This configuration does not lend itself to radio, steering will be troublesome and for the boat to become effective you will need to reduce lateral area. If you are at Southampton can I suggest that get across the water to Gosport have a word with the model yachtsmen at the club at Walpole Park and they will help you out. The Club House is under the round cafe in the edge of the lake. Ask for Robert Hobbs, Martin Bandey, Ray Baker or Ken Shell either of these guys will help you.

If you want to see free sailing racing come to Gosport this Sunday and take a look. I may well be there so bring the boat over and we can talk it through during the lunch break.


Here is my radio control 6 metre 1925 William Fife designed yacht

Are these 6 metres? The keels look too deep to me but they are a great looking boat. GER9 is awesome

I didn’t see anything in there that looked to be what the current or past 6M’s looked to be. That genoa setup sure looked complicated, I wonder why they need so many blocks and lines and multiple winches… wow… 1 winch, two blocks… and take it to the lake.

This is what my 6 M looks like and was originally designed back in the 1960’s after a 1930’s boat.

If you want to restore this hull as a model 6-m, rather than as a model of a full size boat, the book you want is W J Daniels and H B Tucker: Model Sailing Craft: (London, Chapman and Hall, 1932, 1939, 1952). This is the classic ‘how to’ for models of the wooden hull, cotton sails era. Full descriptions of how the boats were rigged and good drawings of fittings and rigging details. Decent libraries should have it or be able to get it. Second hand copies via Abebooks at £80 and upwards.

If you decide to go down this route, the Vintage Group <> can help with access to suitable fittings, cotton sailmakers etc.


I’ve taken a look at the sight. They are nice looking boats and they look 6metre ish but as you say the keel is too long. So I’m not certain, I don’t speak German either so I can’t evaluate them from the text. I’ll try and get some photo’s uploaded of UK 6’s

Bill - any chance to consider/respond to my PM ?


I don’t seem to have received your PM Can you resend


Ummm - while a bit off-topic - I am going to go public in the hopes some other UK readers might have connection if you don’t.

We “multihullers” lost a good friend and modeling/sailing reference with the passing of Mike Howell of the BMMA (British Model Multihul Association) and because of that I have no contact with Mike Friend. He designed/built PULSE, a UK champion boat and I have plans. He gets royalties for all sales, but I used to send through Mike Howell. Basically, I’m trying to find email for Mike Friend if anyone knows him, I would appreciate his contact info. Please PM or email me with info.

Thanks, Dick

You could also try via the MYA site:

There are three 6M’s for sale and pictures to boot, in the following site:- and surf to the for sale, 6m page.


I’ll check things out with the UK Multi Hull guys and either get one of them to get back to you or I wll. It might take a couple of days or so.


Thanks Bill - I appreciate your “investigative work”