OK, so I’m building the minitux 2 ( or II) and I have the shell of the hull done. The only things I could get so far are the templates for the stations and the hull panels. So I’m at an end unless I know the measurement for the keel.
Is there anyone else who has built one and could share the information I’d like to finish mine?
thx
Just an idea. I think the Minitux is a German design and you could try posting the question on http://www.rg65.de/forums/index.php A lot of if not most Germans speak English and there’s not usually any problem. Alternatively, http://www.i-j-s.de/rg65/minitux_v2_seite.pdf might be of some help or you could try to contact Haegar, who was fairly active here at the start of the English speaking world’s interest in RG65.
Hi,
I will try to contact Jens - it may be a bit difficult but perhaps it will work …
Otherwise, figure out where the center of buoyancy is located. There the center of gravity of the bulb should be placed. The connecting line of this two points should be approximately at 1/3 of the fin depth. This will work in most cases.
Happy New Year
I believe this document has some important information: http://www.i-j-s.de/rg65/minitux_v2_seite.pdf
Zum neuen Jahr Gesundheit, Glück und viel Erfolg!
This sounds confusing. It sounds as if the two are in the same spot. Can you please tell us more?
sorry for confusing you
decribing it in in only one dimension you are right, because both spots are at the same distance from bow/stern. But the center of gravity of the keel bulb is some 30cm below the center of buoyancy…
When you build a keel pocket for the RG65, how heavy does the material need to be? Could you use 1.5mmm plywood (1/16inch) or what is the usual construction, assuming the keel has a 2mm tongue? Should the cross-beams be very light (3mm square) balsa or heavier, like (3mm square) pine?
Hi,
unfortunately I have no experience with wooden RGs, but I think 1.5mm plywood should be more than enough. I would go for 0.8 mm.
Because the keel pocket is usually fixed to the deck there is also no need for very “heavy” cross beams. The cross beams ar only needed to keep the shape of the hull until the deck is glued to the hull. Then you have a closed shape which should be stable enough for all loads.
I usuall go for epoxi hulls with glass or carbon reinforcements. Those hulls and decks are very floppy until the deck ist glued to the hull.
The keel box is a bit of a nuisance in the limited space of an RG65. I prefer to use a 4 mm i.d. carbon fibre tube with a suitable length of threaded rod fitted to the fin. A short stud aft of the threaded rod prevents the fin from twisting. For belt and braces security, I also attach a cross beam to support the tube at deck level. There’s probably a small weight saving as well.
http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/showthread.php?4290-Rg65/page47
Post # 464
Scroll down and I posted a photo of inside of my JIF65 showing general layout of radio gear and attached to keel trunk with Velcro. You can use your own design as to how best to fit everything inside and the desired size of your hatch opening. You “can” be creative too. Boat is “DIRTY DEEDS” I built for son-in-law.
I’ll keep it in mind after I cut out the stations.
Heres a nice shot of a MiniTuxII
GPZY -
what was the weight on that one? Hard to read the scale. Thanks - just curious how my JIF65 stacks up.
I would love to say that it is my build , but it isn’t. The scale reads 121, and not sure if that is ozs or grams.
Manny
It’d better not be ounces. That would make the bare hull weigh in at over 4 lbs