ah a frankston boy eh
When the Apprentice knows more than the Mentor its time to quit!
but i sail out of mornington yc.
Hi everyone,
What is the best way of sealing balsa wood
One Design is the only way to race, none of this handicap ****.
What do people think of this deal: JR Max 44 Radio, Receiver and 2 JR NES-505 Servos for AU$100?
Does anyone know anything about this radio & servo’s?
Please reply
Regards
Rob
Something Is Nothing and Nothing Is Something!
I seal the balsa wood with epoxy and fine structured woven glass fibre. This gives a strong coating for the outer hull.
Furthermore I’ve sealed the inner hull with G4.
G4 is a polyurethane resin that uses water from the air to dry. It penetrates the balsa and seals the wood completely.
Why don’t you make a mould of your balsa plug and make a complete epoxy hull?
Then you do not have to seal the inner side of your hull. This gives the advantage that whenever your hull makes water you can simply pull out the drain-plug en let the water out.
But G4 certainly is good stuff to seal balsa wood!!
Does anyone know what hull shape is the fastest? My first IOM is the KITE, but I’m planning to build another one.
Folkert
I am no pro @ all…but it depends on your sailing conditions
Wis
_/ if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! _
I goof around with different rigs on different hulls to see not only what works but how much change is created. FWIW, I use a variable weight bulb, one that has a lead nose with a tube behind it and I can slide lead “washers” down the threaded rod that is molded into the lead nose, then thread on the tailcone and I can change ballast in a momement. Then I do basically the same thing with mast, just build one in sections using dowel and brass tube beyond what your known starting point is. You are familiar with 2.2M, so give it a boost and go to say 2.6M by building a wood dowel mast that length. Then if that is not enough for you use an extension to get you half way to your max of 3M. Make your own sail for the 3M rig and just roll up the foot and secure to the boom.
Keep good notes about what you are using for ballast, setup, rig, wind conditions etc, and you can test to your hearts content and then build what you like. I do the whole thing with the anemometer, video cameras and even onboard telemetry via one of those nifty $60 wireless cameras and a modified bicycle computer. When I get through with all that, it usually LOOKED more impressive than the data I recovered [:D]
Bottom line is always, if it looks fast, it probably is. Have fun with it, that is the most important ingredient.
Krak-A-Fat.JPGmust se in water [;)]
Wis
_/ if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it! _
here are the boats on the water we currently have 10 boats on the water heaps of fun what do u think
Download Attachment: 
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Ok, the situation is this, I have an hour & 33mins to bid on the JR Max 44 Radio, Receiver and 2 JR NES-505 Servos but its gone up to AU$133.50, I am willing to go up to AU$150
Last Call For People who know anything about this gear, should I place a bid for it over AU$160?
Something Is Nothing and Nothing Is Something!
AHHHHHHHH
Somebody brought it for AU$10 more than my AU$152.50, so now i have to look for something else.
What do people think of this deal:
http://www.modelflight.com.au/rc_model_radio_control/jr_propo_quattro_rc_control.htm
Regards
Rob
Something Is Nothing and Nothing Is Something!
Hi everyone.
I have brought a Hitec Laser 4 with I think 2 standard servo’s, 1 1/4 HS700BB servo and 1 HS725BB sail winch. I went down to where I am buying my stuff from & got the 1/4 scale servo, but the other gear wont come in until like mid July, which really sucks, but ahh well, you cant have everything.
I have worked out how I am building my canting keel, I will post my designs at the end of my school year, cause I have to hand them into the teacher first.
I have built the canting keel, but when I am have finished school, I will be changing it & changing some other stuff on it, haven’t decided everything that I will change, but I will certainly build a new rig for it, maybe I will do what matt suggested with the Mari Cha 4 sort of rig, but that will come later.
I have built my rudder & my centerboard for LR, they are gonna be all black like the rest of the baot. I have one tiny problem though, the stern of the boat isn’t square so I have to cut it off & make it square, but I want to extend it so that it is either the same length of dads or longer, which would be better, I am wondering what is the best way to extend the stern of my boat. I have so far 1 idea & that is to stick duct tape to the hull & then using either chop strand mat & resin to extend the hull, but dont know if this is the best idea.
Does anyone else have any suggestions?
I see said the blind man to the crippled noodist who put his hands & promtly walked away
I helped a good friend rebuild the stern of a NACRA 5.8 that was completely “removed” during an on-water altercation by another boat.
While we used heavier materials, the “Process” should work out for you…
Here in the US, we have very thin, rolled aluminum that is about 4-6 inches wide (up to 12 inches as I recall - maybe more - and about 25 feet long. It is used to “flash” in the valleys on house roofs, to help seal the joints, and move water from two roof angles down toward the eaves. It goes down over the wood joint, and shingles are laid over the top of it. You should be able to find it at most lumberyards or home centers in the “flashing” section.
I would take a section of this and cut it long enough to completely cover the hull from one gunwale to the other. Cover it with clear plastic packaging tape to act as a mold release on the surface that will be against the bottom of the hull. Leave enough so you can fasten to the existing hull using strong duct tape or similar tape about 2 inches wide. Because this aluminum is so very thin, it will easily conform to the shape of the hull that is left, and will act as a “shelf” upon which you can build your stern extension. Since you are working in reverse, the first layer of glass should be pretty light weight so the weave will be filled with resin. Before it cures, add several more layers of 4 oz. cloth, carbon, or whatever your are using. Build up to same thickness as existing hull. Then add one or two more strips to cover the seam, and to extend into the bottom of the existing hull, tying the existing hull to the new extension.
Basically looking from the stern, it will look like the letter “U” with your new stern extension layers laid up inside the “U” shape.
Obviously, you can spread the top of the aluminum to match the gunwale angle if needed.
Once the resin kicks off, you can remove the duct tape and peal the aluminum away from the new extension. If you remembered to cover the inside surface with plastic tape, whether you use epoxy or polyester resin, it will pull away fairly easy. A little sanding and maybe a bit of filler along the seam, and it should be ready for painting.
Might be other methods, but this one worked for us, and since he sprayed gel coat onto the aluminum first, after buffing and polishing, it was impossible to see the seam after he was done.
Good luck with the process.
<font color=“red”>Edit, to remove double posting.</font id=“red”>
Matt - thanks for the edit. Didn’t realize it posted twice. This has been happening both here and over on WindPower - and by different people too.
Sorry to all for the double post!