Look - It floats


I asked about hulls and the Ranger was recommended. So I got a kits from Vision Sails and took about 6 months to build but hey…IT FLOATS :slight_smile:

It weighs alot (just over 1 kg) and I’m already learning about rigging a boat fast…you can read that as " Why the hell doesnt this work… oh…let me redo that bit"

So far no wind and the second one is awaiting Dyneema stocks to arrive. Now I need wind… I am pondering putting my fan on the end of our pool to learn how to sail. I have no idea what I’m doing lol.
The pool’s length is about 3 times the width you can see in the photo, a bonus of living in SA.

Thanks everyone for all the build info etc. I’ve got a half finished IAC 100d plug to keep me busy for the next year :slight_smile:

interesting the 3rd image where the main is suspended far away from the mast. Are the top sail connections made with elastics to allow the twist ?

Hi Claudio.

That is one of the main mistakes I need to fix. I was battling to get a uniform gap between the mast and mainsail so did that. I only realized later that it was silly as now the sail can’t twist. I’m waiting for some new dyneema to arrive and will put a swivel in and mount them both close to the mast.

Is the gap between the sail and mast acceptable? I thought it might be too wide but that’s how I managed to get it uniform and thought that was more important. I am normally wrong in my assumptions though :frowning:

how do you have it attached to the mast? it looks liek you only have attachment points on the top and bottom and nothing in between?

generally along the luff of the main every 6inches or so. use some string to tie the sail to mast… and maybe 1/8" gap between sail and mast.

Thanks, I’ll do that as soon as the line arrives.

Could someone please give me a recommendation on the rigging procedure please.

Do I start with the loops as mentioned on the mast, then do the vertical tension, then on the end of the boom? Or what order?
Should I leave the mast vertical with no bend from the forestay or a slight bend? (please remember I’m an amateur so even a very vague “start with a bit then and bother with that later” type of answer is appreciated)


PS. Maybe I can do a “How not to Build thread” LOL. I am however having a blast and appreciate all the help given, and still to come.

i like to do mine with the rig up and properly aligned. tie off the head of the main at the crane. that way it is being help up. it makes it easier to tie the loops around mast and sail.

heat up needle and poke holes in the luff of the main… the heat will actually melt the hole so you don’t tear the mylar. maybe 1/8-1/4" away from the edge. just makes you use use the same distance.

in this photo they used a grommet. but on the RG sicne is is so small and light there is not that much pressure so you really don’t need a grommet.

I can take a pic of mine when I get home. around 5-6pm… if someone can’t find a better link/photo…

Thanks, I’ll let you all know how it goes when the line gets here(hopefully in about 2 days)

here are some pics… on the blue nylon sails and the clear trispi sail I use a carbon rod in the luff pocket so I don’t need as many ties. but on the white sails I did not use a carbon rod and had to put more ties…

let me know if you need better pics. not a photographer by trade…:slight_smile:

Thanks, the pics are great but it looks like I’ve got a chasm between the sail and mast :lol:

Could someone give a brief description on the placement of the jib boom/deck attachment?
I have found threads that delve into too much detail for my brain to digest (remember I battle with simple things like the correct terminology as I’ve never been in a boat in my life, I have just always loved them) and thought this could be a nice place to give a brief description for other beginners.

I’m under the impression that the point of attachment on the boom is about 30% from the end of the boom.
When should I move the deck attachment fore or aft?

Thanks again.


A chasm… well if you say so… We have a guy in our club who has standoffs for his main and it hangs about 1/2" aft of the mast… Neat setup, and it seems to work…

Jib Boom… the placment on the boom can affect 2 things, IMO.

  1. it affect how well the boat points.
  2. It affect leech(aft edge of the jib) tension.

As you move the pivot point forward the jib rotates on a plane closer to the leading edge of the jib. which Imo is a better for performance. Helps the boat point up wind and put more sail area tothe wind when going wing-on-wing down wind. But as a result of the moving the point on the jib club forward the tension the leach lessens. Which means you have to add more headstay tension to keep leech tension.

If you move it aft, the opposite is true.

Think of the jib club as a Lever arm… the closer to the middle the mor even the pressure on each side. as you move the fulcrum (pivot point) on the lever. it takes less force for a reaction.

When sailing there is a constant pressure on the leech of sails. the aft attachment point on the jib club with the sail, the clew, will want to rise up… on full size boats, the crew has the ability to pull aft and down on the sheet, eliminating this rising of the clew which results in twist of the sail. some twist is OK. ON model yachts we only pull from the center-line so we use the offset jib attachment point to get the needed leech tension. and then we add a jib topping lift to add or remove twist…

Again with the offset attachment, the leach tension is dictated by the forestay tension. which in turn bends the mast…and adds back stay tension… fun juggling act…

not the position on the boat. you can use to help balance the boat. my moving the deck attachment point you are adjusting the center of effort (the location of the forces on the combined sail area). the center of effort interactes with the center of lateral Resistance ( balance point of the keel, hull, rudder) to help move the boat. CE to far forward of the CLR the boat will always want to fall off to windward, lee helm. think of the CLR as the balance point on a lever. push on side it goes one way, push on the another. it goes the other way,

Now if you move the CE too far aft of the CLR the boat will always want to roundup head to wind (weather helm). Now that is not totally a bad thing. You want the boat to “hunt” the shifts, and bit of weather helm the boat will still track on its own but as the wind comes up the boat will accelerate and will point higher as the apparent wind changes.

so you can use the deck attachment points of the mast/jib to adjust your CE for the conditions/boat you are sailing.

Now there is an important effect with the slot between the Luff of the main, and leech of the jib. As wind comes off the jib it flows past the windward side of the main. too much slot, you loose some of the accelerated air, to little of a slot same thing… the main and jib when working together begin to act like one big wing, instead of two separate wings…

Juggling act…:slight_smile:

while it refers to big boats. the physics and theories are the same…
Lester gilbert also has a nice site on one meter boats that is will with with alot of physics information, theory and application…

this is what I developed as new rig for the RG65 Trap, a sort of baletron made for the main. Not tested yet in the water only with airblower !!! :

Claudio that’s a mind bending idea :rolleyes: how do you control twist on the main ?

Cheers Alan

Alan, it looks like he may have a topping lift on the main boom…

What would the benefits of having the main like that??

Not quite sure of the motivation behind it, but guessing to have better airflow over the main without turbulences generated by the mast? then again the mast now sits in the slot and could well backwind the main ? can imagine main luff needs to pretty tight too ! as I said it bends the mind :crazy:

Hi Claudio,

Interesting setup to reduce mast induced turbulence, but would it not also reduce the yachts’ pointing ability?



reminds me a bit of the hoyt rig…

That’s awesome as always.
I’m still waiting for line from sails etc. no-one out here has the dyneema ( that I could find)

This is the basic principle of the dual swing setting.
There is also a rotating crane possibility as in the Aeroskiff 16.
Just an experimental work that do not means it will work as expected !!!

As I bring the heady knowledge of advanced sail arms etc crashing to the ground, behold, Boats at a lake.

Didn’t get a chance to take shots on the water (concentrating too much lol.) but here’s my beautiful brother-in-law at the lake. We had no real issues other than figuring out what we were doing and all went well.
It was amazing how many people came up and asked about them. Nearly every person assumed there were motors running and were finished when we said they had none.

So for a while, that’s me with a boat to learn on, and it was built (badly by the standards of this forum) by me and I get a kick out of knowing that. Next one will be neater and hopefully alot lighter as I completely overbuilt these as I figured that was the safest bet.

So if you’re new, just build one yourself :slight_smile: It’s fun, and you feel that bit more manly. And don’t get intimidated by how amazing the build logs on here are… your first one aint gonna turn out like that but who cares.