Hi Claudio,
To minimize sideways pressure on the bearing of the drum shaft, attach the pulling line (to close hauled) to the bottom drum and the take-up line to the top one.
John
Of course John , but is still out of 10mm .
Claudio
The new servo board for the AC33 - triplex avio of 1.5 doubled with 160g/m² carbon cloth.
Claudio
The new servo winch self made, is integrated :
Cheers
Claudio
Great work as usual Claudio!
Hello out here! Can someone help? I saw somewhere the plans for the new AC33 and have lost them. Can someone repost them, please? I think this new class has tons of potential, more than the Alinghi/NewZealand style AC boats. The 33’s look like they can be faster and easier to build with more devolopability than the older design, along with being a more attractive design. Good luck all!
Hi,
actually in view of the America Cup evolution the AC33 project is in stand by.
Various tests has been made showing the speed and acceleration caracteristics and I’m glad for that, another aspect is the exceptional manoeuvrability. Some check are left and concern the tests with various sail plans.
There is still one major point I need to check and for that I need to make another model and then compare the two, this is the ‘Prismatic Coeficient’
The new plan is already developped, just waiting for me to start building it. Obviously I cannot reveal all details yet.
Similarly the plans for the new AC120 are also ready waiting the AC confirmation .
Sorry I cannot offer more !
Cheers
Claudio
oh man … i’m beginning to like this forum … so much infos … so many expert builders and designers … i salute u guys 
Hi Claudio -
somewhere, you mentioned the technical drawings you provide, and what you used. Am I correct that you use Corel Draw to make these drawings?
I am trying to find an easy way of making drawings (other than a scanned sketch), and I do have Corel Draw, but have only made use of it for minor graphics - and mostly boat name lettering for decals.
Thank you for your information.
Dick
Hi Dick,
correct, I use an old version since 15 years or more : the Coreldraw 5 and only the Draw module.
Actually I see that can be downloaded for free here : http://www.vetusware.com/download/CorelDRAW!%205/?id=3320.
Very practical and personally very satisfied.
Cheers
Claudio
Hi Dick
You could try this 2D/3D CAD program Google Sketchup 7, it’s free. Works very well and easy to use.
http://sketchup.google.com/download/
Claudio
Great Plans, I plan to start building CHN95 & USA36 in September 09.
Regards
Owen
Very good Owen I’m please to know it.
Regards
Claudio
Owen - my thanks as well. I have Corel Draw 9 - but just haven’t spent the time to learn a lot about it. Usually use for decal logos and boat names, since it provides a bit more flexibility to do drop shadows, etc. than MS Word.
I will take a look and do a short few tests with some items.
Thanks for providing and sharing the info.
Dick
Updating image with servo data
Hi Peter
you may go on the RG65 International Association where many plans are presented, the Blue Dragon is my design.
The Delta Rig discussion will use a RG65 Hull.
I have did something similar in Italy with my CD65 : http://www.baronerosso.net/forum/navimodellismo-vela/90078-cd65.html
The idea was to try a reverse L configuration Fin/Bulb, was a failure, at the end I used a normal setting and every thing went very well. Sorry, is in Italiannn, but plenty of pictures
Cheers
Claudio
Hello Claudio
As usual, you lead many of us to “greener pastures” filled with new/old ideas that we haven’t considered.
In your above post, I took a look at the website and was impressed by an idea to make the RG-65 sized lead bulbs from flat sheets of lead. No melting, pouring, mold-making and it looks like something I will try. Here in the US, we can buy 1 sheet of lead for $9.00 (US) and it will provide 2 lbs. (1,000 gr) of lead - twice what is needed by a modern RG boat.
Because the forum post bears your screen name, I am writing to ask permission to use the photos and explanation of making a bulb following that method. May I please have permission to develop and convert into English and distribute among our US class members?
I do have two questions regarding the method…
- what thickness of lead sheet was used?
- were the individual layers glued with epoxy before final shaping?
This method of building excites me, since the thin lead can easily be cut using Xacto knives, and the cost for a 1 lb. (500 gr) bulb could be as low as $4.50 (US) per bulb. Being able to cut also allows for some ability to experiment from one bulb design to another since a fixed mold is not required.
Thank you so very much for posting this method of construction. I wait for your approval to use the forum photos.
Warmest regards,
Dick
Hi Dick,
of course you can open a new 3d about my simple mechanical/manual method to buid a bulb without risks.
You can pick up the pictures as you wish. Don’t forget the “Bulb Calculator” from Lester Gilbert site.
1- the thickness of the lead sheet is about 1mm - my stock is a roll of 10kg - I use good pair of scissors.
2- I discovered that the cyanolite - Loctite glue work perfectly and fast as such to support also the load of a rasp during shaping. At the end the bulb is protected with glass/resin.
In the past one bulb was composed of 36 layers glued in few minutes in two parts 18+18.
It is important to weight the 2 separated halfs because one can adds, is retained necessary, one additional layer to reach the desired weight. Of course taking into account the removed lead during shaping.
There is also the option to fill the various steps with a polyester filler.
Last remark : the lead is not pure but an alloy therefore it is necessary to very the specific weight . Below 2.4kg the bulb calculator can’t go. Generally I scale down the shape at a reasonable size (nose meter) and recalculate the volume as generally done for an hull
I cut the lenght in 10 circular slide, adding all the calculated surfaces and then multiplied for the bulb lenght, the result is the volume. If, too low, it is necessary to increase the slides diameters or the lenght and viceversa or adding a layer. The shape are not necessarily circular can be oval.
An oval bulb allow to shorten the fin blade to gain on wetted surface or lowering the center of gravity. See pictures -
The fin-lead is shoving a fin with integrated lead for 1 kg while the bulb is only 2kg.
I believe tha’s all.
Cheers
Claudio
PS : one can propose an article on the Model Yachting magazine.
Thanks Claudio -
I believe this will be a fall/early winter project for me. I will include you as the holder of the photo rights and that I have your permission to reproduce.
Again, thank you for your continued support and education for model sailing. Very much appreciated by all of us.
Best wishes, Dick
Tank you very much Dick, I really appreciate !
Ciao
Claudio
PS: Find the pictures File below
Claudio,
Firstly, your contributions on this website and others are facinating, insightful, technically advancing and just plain fantastic!! Please keep giving us your most appreciated knowlege!!
I have been sailing ‘big’ boats for a long time - sailing on and becoming a big fan of the flat, minimal rocker boats such as TP52, VO7-'s and more. I have been trying to find a design which has the flat after sections and slab sides. Your AC33 design is exactly what I want to build!! I have bult an older design M class, so I don’t think this is beyond me.
Is there any chance you can post the sections for your AC 33 design??
Thanks in advance,
Brad