Claudio…
this is a good thread here… you should join it with the sail making thread. that everybody enjoyed… this is a good step by step thread. for anybody looking to build anything…
ok people…
we have put the challenge down… there is no more excuses… you seen how 2 people build hulls. and also put together sails…
any question?
Claudio… you is a great craftsman… bravo and cheers:zbeer:
Hi Claudio.
I really thanks the work you took to draw the sketches for the bulb mold construction.
I already got 5 tubes of high temp red silicone. I already have a full bulb made ina cnc, it was made in stainles steel. I should make a bed for it. and do both halves. I will keep the silicone into the wood box because i use to place the mold vertical to put the lead into it.
As you said…it is expensive U$50 the 5 tubes of silicone…my only concern is that this one is thicker than the one you showed, that looks thin enought to pour in. But i think that gravity will help as well as a spackle to spread the silicone all over.
Greetings from Chile
Tato Lazo
CHI 272
Hi Claudio I’m surprised that you are using blocks to make your sails, I would think you would use your Claudio gajit, I made one for myself and it works great, the only trouble I have with it is figuring out the draft, I can’t get your graph to work at all.
john
Hi John,
the “claudio gadget” as you called is a very simple and usefull tool to make or adjust the sails even on the sailing pond, but obviously you need to try several times with various edges to find the shape you like with and without formulas or graphic - simple practical experience !
The graphic curve is a mathematical issue, but from theory to practice there is an “ocean” in between. A lot of practice is needed. His limitation is that you cannot control diffents profiles unless you change the flexible rule and practice again.
The blocs are more controllable because the adjustments requires less stringent tollerance. Is more mechanical and easy to control from manual point of view. No rule elasticity is involved.
The drawback is that is bigger and there is a need to have several blocs to cope with the various sail’s configurations profiles and a flat table to work upon while the “Claudio Gadget” not.
Cheers
Claudio
I hope you will do a good job even somewhat more difficulto to control being a closed mould.
Personally I prefers to pour two separate half and join them together with some additiional manual work for adjustment.
Cheers
Claudio
Hi Cougar,
my Manual is written in Italian and you can download from :
http://www.nonsolovele.com/Tecniche.shtml
Come fare le Vele (di Claudio Diolaiti)
There is also a good Manual written by Ben Morris that can be consulted here : http://members.iinet.net.au/~benmorris@senet.com.au/sailmaking.htm
Ciao
Claudio
Some additional pictures during Jib assembly.
The left hand helps to keep the cloth aderence to the form, while right hand is sticking the paper scotch.
It is very “important” to ensure good adherence of the cloth to the form in order to obtain best results.
Close-up to the dual side adhesive
While lifting the protective layer. Note the momentary lift of the left panel !
Adhering the left panel side ensuring omogeneous pressure distribution.
Claudio
I tried to take the sail’s pictures differently, but I’m not so sure to have managed well !!
The Sails are ready to be mounted on the rig, Oviously are taller then me !!! (Main 2060mm luff)
Finally the ratio is 62% - 38% for the Jib ; the chage from 30% occurred discussing with some modelers.
Claudio
Hi Caludio.
SAILS:
I note that the luff of the main is not straight, as almost every sail design, that needs to conform the mast curve due to backstay tension.
When do you cut the curve at the main sail luff?? it is done in each panel for separate before taping all together or after they have been taped together??
I guess your answer will apply to the whole sail shape.
BULB:
I will try to do one bulb completely once the silicone mold be done…i am out of time right now, but just to try how much work will take, i will try also pouring by halves and glue them together with 5 minutes expoxy and then work on with automotive putty.
Thanks for your valuable info and experience.
Tato Lazo
Hi TatoLazo
As you said, the luff is cut after the panel’s assembly. If you look carefully on the preceeding pictures, you will see that the panels are cut somewhat larger by about 1 cm.
The cutting is done following a line traced on the sails by lying the main and the pre-bent mast on the floor. Actually the curve camber is about 15mm at 60% from the base along the luff.
Good luck with the silicone mould !
Cheers
Claudio
Tato,
If you are using air cure silicone, you have to put it on in thin layers for it to cure throughout. If you ever do it again, buy some of the two part silicone as it is very pourable and thick pours will cure from the hardner mixed in. I used the MoldMax 60 from this website: http://www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1113_1135/index.html
I have poured several one piece bulbs in the mold I made from it, complete with slot molded in for fin. The mold has deteriorated some, but still useable.
RIG Setting
Because of the possibility to use different Rigs, the M class type and the AC120, and due to the different Mast step positions between the two setting, I decided to adopt this configuration for the M type with the use of an anchor tube. The anchor tube is fixed on the mast and anchored to the forestay rack to be used later with the AC120 Rig.
The jib boom can be adjusted with a sliding grip on the anchor tube. see drawing :
In order to properly functioning of the Butterfly sail configuration when Running, it is necessary to ‘balance’ the jib boom using a counterweight. In this case I used 22g of lead.
The picture (n°200) is taken during the balancing operations :
Claudio
A detail of the anchor tube
With all the additional details, is time to check again the various weights.
The Rig weight is 15g more than expected
Therefore summing up :
Rig …283g
Complete Hull with electronics…1200g
Fin & Bulb…2925g
Rudder…25g
Counterweight…24g
Transparent paint…30g
Total…4487g
Design displacement…4225g
Extra weight…262g
This extra weight will sink the boat about 1.45 mm more - (Water Plan 1806cm²)
Taking into account that the cockpit floor alone is almost 80g, the epoxy bonding and closure pannels 80g, the use of 100g/m² glass instead of 50g/m², that the bridge design is not optimised yet, the additional weight could be easily recovered for the future model if any …
After mounting of the rudder servo, the time is arrived to close the hull completely, nevetheless too much weight is lost with this cockpit design approach. A full moulded deck will be much better.
Claudio
For the first time Hull, Sails, Fin/Bulb and Rudder are meeting toghether !!
65 days later, the work is almost completed, still missing are the sheets lenght adjustment and the final spray transparent painting.
The batteries are under charge !!!
Claudio
Claudio,
I’m reading the IACC review on the Model Yachting n.156 magazine, and I’m very happy that this RC sailboat class begins to diffuse outside europe.
This is a very good period for me and my team Alinghi: the 10 May, I won the IACC 120 CUP, 5-0 against Fly Emirates New Zealand (yes! The destiny wanted the same final as AC 2007 in Valencia!). NZL-92 won the IACC 120 Challenger Cup 3-2 against Shosholoza RSA-83.
All regattas during the Challengers Cup have been very interesting and heated.
The 4 finalists of IACC Challengers Cup were the better 4 boats of winter Round Robin:
Prada Luna Rossa ITA-45
Alinghi SUI-75 (the 2nd boat of Alinghi Team; it participated between the challengers)
Shosholoza RSA-83
Fly Emirates New Zealand NZL-92
I want to show some images of this day:
the 4 finalist Challengers and the Defender Alinghi SUI-100:
Alessandro and his NZL-92 winner of Challengers Cup:
Matthias with the IACC 120 CUP:
Alinghi SUI-100 and the IACC 120 CUP:
The two winners:
Shosholoza RSA-83:
Alinghi SUI-100:
Prada Luna Rossa ITA-45:
And Matthias with his SUI-100:
Greetings
Matthias
www.IACC120CUP.altervista.org
Nice pictures Matthias.
I hope me to, that this class could develops outside Italy.
So far I knows, in Australia there are some ETNZ under construction, similarly in New Zealand and Canada.
Cheers
Claudio
Claudio -
does your “anchor tube” move side to side at all, or is it fastened to the front of the mast? I was looking at this and it may be a way for me to support the jib and asymmetrical spinnaker on one of my 1.2 meter catamaran designs.
Originally, I had thought of mounting a self-tending jib boom from front bridal wire, but this looks like a much better idea.
Also - I tried covering my epoxy/glass cloth on the top half of my float hull of my 65 cm multihull and found it greatly eliminated a lot of the work in finishing the surface - much like your “trash bag” pieces on our AC hull.
Thanks for so many great ideas.
Dick
Hi Dick,
actually because I want to use two different Rigs, the Class M and the Class AC33, I decided to use this anchor tube to cope with two differents CE spaced by more than 75mm.
To remember that forestay rack, to be used later for the AC33 rig, is recessed from the deck plan and far too advanced for the forestay of a class M.
The anchor tube is fasten to the AC33 forestay rack, nevetheless it is not excluded that this tube could become moving angularly side to side within the deck limits. See message 215.
This will probably offer to slide laterally the forestay and by consequence the leading edge of the Jib. The pull force is very high and the 1st problem is to avoid excessive ‘up tilting’ and keep the tube flat to the deck with minimum friction resistance… linear bearings ? - RC control channel ? who knows !!!
That’s all for the moment, glad to see that some times my funny ideas can help others…!
Cheers
Claudio
Just a funny image !!
The sheets are adjusted but are presenting some slight friction, probably due to the type of rope used, is the one employed for the kites !
Cheers
Claudio
Hi Claudio,
What kind of battery you are downloading with the bulb?
Li-Po or Ni-Mh or Ni-Cd…??
Warning! When the filament of the bulb will be completely shut down the battery and you will throw it away.
Normally the batteries should have a residual current, however, only the Ni-Cd should be first unloaded and then reloaded to make good to the memory.
The Ni-Mh did not recall then after they use you can upload directly to the exclusion of the download.
hear you soon
Stefano