Been very busy lately at work so I have had very little time to play and post, so the posting kinda had to slide, sorry.
An Iacc event in Valencia, that would be great! Lets see what happens in the new year. As for the 23rd… I would just have landed back in Spain, so I can’t make that event at all…
I have however put together a little vid… Here is the last sail of 2010 and it will be the last time I am working for V.C. as well.
Had a sail with my friend from Team Germany… he built a bigger version of my Canting keel boat. I gave him free access to the boat and he went away with my ideas and built himself his own. Sails really well and is very powerful.
Have a look for yourselves!
Jim you are wellcome here in Roma if you can.
This video is interesting. Just for curiosity, what are principal canting keel boat specs? Have you done some match race regatta? If yes, what is the fastest?
Hi Matthias,
For the record, the canter is faster at all points except upwind where I can point higher by quite some for the same speed… But the canter looses out in tacks by a mile. So, round a course upwind/ ( dead) downwind probably quite even…
the stats are 1.2 m long, .45m wide, keel 0.8m from CL, mast 1.8m, weight 4.6 kg sail area… Massive! They are the wind tunnel test sails for Team Germany’s AC 90 they were designing in 2007… All the rig gear is from the Marblehead class. It takes 2 modified digital servos to cant the keel!
Great vid Jim ! looks like your becoming more familiar with SWE 96, see looks really nice was envious sitting here in half meter of snow :indiffere
The canter looks great too, how could it not with wind tunnel tested sails, did you look closely at how he set-up Radial Jib to have luff on the centre line ?
When it was flying the bulb out of the water you could see the helm balance change and how the hull relies more on the canoe of the hull …very interesting.
Wishing you & all here a fun Christmas and looking forward to an action filled 2011.
Okay… I have a bit of free time so I thought it was time to optimise 96.
I pulled the the access hatch as I wanted to replace the steering servo for a low profile/ high speed item. Once this was up it reminded me to revise the corrector weight to get the hull CoG as low as possible.
I had some lead sheet that I cut up so it lays flat against the hull and the two pieces sit either side of the fin box.
The holes allow me to fine tune the trim fore and aft and its locked-in using fastenings in the keel structure.
All up 329g, which should put me just over legal min… just needed a little tidying up after this shot and it works like a charm.
Hi all,
Still ticking off all the little jobs on the boat.
Now the yacht is now back together with the correctors installed.
Weight 4500g dead on.
I checked the balance as per the instructions on the Iacc 120 forum.
My C of G is at 213mm from max draft. ( measured up from the bottom of the bulb.)
I have 2 new mains and 1 new jib to try out.
One main has more draft in the lower 2/3rd’s and the other less than I have tried before.
The jib is a step out into the unknown. There is not a great deal of good info on jib building.
I have gone with 6% for the 1st and 10% for the 2nd seam thanks to Ben Morris.
Hope to go sailing soon!
I was hoping to do the same with my prototype but the ‘skipper’ of that boat has been called away to Switzerland for work and I’m down to single boat testing again.
The jib anchor point in the foredeck has also been shifted 30 mm forward and to compensate for that I’m now revising the jib sheeting situation.
Testing out a jib sheet rail system similar in idea to SUI 102, but also using the methods for a self tacking jib on I14’s and the 18’ skiffs with a mini ‘car’ on the track that can be locked off/adjusted inboard & outboard for tuning the slot.
I will post some pics and share the system once its up and running…
So, after contacting Matt (SUI 102) to make sure he was happy with me using the idea and then publishing photo’s, I have now got a nice shiny jib bar on my foredeck…
Looks great! Very similar to the system on my beloved 29er (& 49er & I14 & 18ft). I think alone from this fact, it must be a good system, atleast all those boats are fun to sail
Will be looking foreward to reading a status report…
I was planing to run jib sheets above deck on my boats, but as i have the mast placed in cocpit height, and the vang going almos all the way down to the cocpit also, there is almost no room for the sheet to pass between the vang and shrouds. This could be a solution, or inspiration for a good solution.
Could you share details as to how the shiny thing is attached to the foredeck. I’m finding it hard to estimate how strong these things has to be.
Will post an update in “my thread” soon, also i have some questions for you regrding the carbon fibre thing, just have to investigate som more stuff before i bother you and others with stupid questions.
“Where ever you are going… Never take an Idiot with you, as you can always find one when you get there.”
Hi Jim
Here I am. Can you explain the intent of the new jib sheeting. I think I can see how it works but I can’t understand what gains you get.
Thanks
Don
Hi Don,
No problem at all.
My reason for adopting this design is as you move the pivot for the jib boom closer to the forestay, then you begin to loose control of the leech tension especially close hauled.
On a single point sheeting the boom is quite free to move up and down, opening the leech when sailing upwind.
Using this system controls the lifting by pulling the boom directly downward with the sheet, preventing it from lifting and opening the leech…
Yet to try it on the water but dry testing showed a huge improvement.
Hi Anders, Sorry I missed your questions earlier as your post was on a previous page.
Here we go - I took some more pictures as these are worth more than words…
The first shows the first prototype bar I tried. It also shows that there is a 90 degree bend that is underdeck. That is the real mechanical attachment, the glue merely holds it place.
The bar is S/S Tig welding rod 1.5mm dia. If you want a ready source of S/S wire then go to a decent mountain bike shop and buy some spokes for a wheel. They are perfect!
The bar does not need to extend the whole width of the foredeck, I had to do this as my deck is 0.20mm thick and so I am relying on the form-strength of the radius at the sheer, and I do not need any additional reinforcement in this area.
Another good point I discovered is that there is very little loading (almost zero) fore and aft as sheeting load is transferred to the adjustment strop (line with the bowsie) when its deflected to the jib boom.
Raising the bar in the centre is to get good clearance so the sheet cannot get tangled with itself tacking & gybing.
Keep the outboard ends low to the deck and you will have no problems with the sheet fouling there too.
Lastly - I have included a pic that shows the sheet runs down from the foredeck, next to the deck collar for the mast and exits through the front of the cockpit wall. This was my solution to get the jib sheet from the fordeck into the correct position for the sheeting run.
Hope that gives you enough to go on…
BTW, the weather is looking great for a sail on the weekend, so fingers crossed!
… Well, I did go sailing last weekend even though the wind was light .
The Jib track system worked flawlessly.
It is easier to butterfly than ever before, and the new jib I built seems to work and point well.
I will try and build another with just a touch more camber soon.
The mainsail experiments now have proven where the limit lays in a couple of areas… I had a touch too much camber in the head of the main on both sails and the head did not like to pop from tack to tack.
This happens on the full sized yachts, but there is a mast-man up the rig to kick the battens over after tacks!
I have, however, really fine tuned the Luff curve for the rig and liking the result there.
So back to the sailmaking for me it seems… Less camber in the main and a bit more in the jib… Glad I’m not paying for the sails…
Hard to find the energy at the moment, I’m more than full time building the new TP 52 for 'Quantum Racing"…
Hi Alan,
Bit slow getting back to you…
Here is a quick diagram with the dimensions for the jib bar system. I thought that it would be easier to show a sketch than explain in words.
The system has now been fully ‘ticked off’ as I have sailed for about 4 hours in conditions ranging from 0.5knt to 12-13knts.
I have done some experimenting with the setup, but I still need to explore a bit further.
e.g. There is no counter weight, and if I can get away without one I will.
There is a gain in the upwind performance. I’m now running with higher headstay tension than before.
I have also recut the main, by adding a new head with less camber than before, but still a touch too much. (Sailmaking with a bit of a hangover) Ahh well!
I have been following your thread and I like this new idea…I had one bit a advice, opinion…whatever you want to call it.
Instead of using a line and bowsie to limit the sheeting point on your traveler bar, why not use some collars directly on the bar that you can set to a fixed point? I have had good success with a similar setup on a main-sheet system on one of my boats…
Glad you are liking the thread, and thanks for the suggestion.
The collar concept was considered but I decided on the line and bowsie for two main reasons.
The first is that I had no suitable collars to hand!
The second is that if you want to change the setup you had to adjust two items the same amount, probably with a tool such as an allen key.
Tools are fine when doing the initial rigging of the yacht, but I feel that the fine tuning is less complicated done without.
This system requires no tool, and has the added feature that one adjustment is the same for both tacks.
I would like to use a collar system as it is more elegant, but for practical reasons this system won.
I had an awesome sail today with a perfect 10knts of breeze. Not regretting swapping to this system in any way.
Works just as it should!
I pulled apart a digital scale to fix a dry joint on the circuit board. Upon disassembly I discovered that the unit has a micro load cell inside. This was then quickly adapted to use on the rigging and tested.
These units are cheap and easy to find.
