Any one tried this ?
Hi Alan,
What the Company says about boat application ?
If would work on boat why not to mention it !
How long this treatment will last ?
Is eventually forbidden for boat surface treatment to avoid contamination if any ?
Of course one could treat one boat with that stuff and another without and see the results.
You have an opportunity with all AC120 you have, why not try and tell us what happen ?
Cheers
ClaudioD
Hi Claudio.
Their web site http://www.spillcontainment.com/everdry states:
How long will Ultra-Ever Dry coating last?
Answer: The SE 7.6.110 formula’s longevity in use is susceptible to environmental conditions (UV / abrasion). This coating will generally last 2-8 months in direct sunlight and outdoor conditions before recoating of the top coat would be required. When used in indoor or covered applications outdoors, the SE 7.6.110 coating should last for a year or more. Other formulas are being added to our product line that can provide years of useful life before any recoat is needed.
Can I spray this on the bottom of my boat?
Answer: We are still testing this application. We do not have any meaningful or conclusive results at this time.
They don’t sell directly only through distributors http://www.industrialproducts.com/Ultra-Ever-Dry-s/765.htm and I’m never sure of product claims coming out of the U.S, looking see if there is European distributor, if it is so good should be here ? but thought ask question first before going to the hassle of importing it, customs here can are really nasty.
Had friend send me birthday gift from NZ and had to pay 50 Euro duty :mad: !!!
Cheers Alan
don’t forget rule 53
53 SKIN FRICTION
A boat shall not eject or release a substance, such
as a polymer, or have specially textured surfaces that could improve
the character of the flow of water inside the boundary layer.
There aren’t 53 rules in IACC 120 class 
(thank goodness) ! …if we’re talking IOM, then the rule does not appear to apply to coatings (loop hole?) as it’s not a specially texture surface nor does not eject or release a substance …!!
R 53 is in the RRS, not in any class rules. So it applies to all boats racing.
R 53 may not apply to the coating under discussion, but the only way to be sure is through a question to the ISAF rapid response process or go through a protest/appeal.
John
I know the 3m riblets from the AC of a couple decades ago are one of the things that prompted rule 53…
but the issue is that you are trying improve the boundary flow with a specialized coating…
I understand what you saying Marc, however where is the boarder line with sanding, polishing, 2 pot paints, gel-coat being commonly used to improve boundary flow ?
Sanding as example to my way of thinking is creating textured surface …
I understand the environmental issues with substance releases and special film applications such as shark skin textures etc. but boundary layer rules don’t cover coatings.
Back to my question has anyone tried it ? where it readily available in the U.S as appears not to be available in other countries.
If anyone is prepared to trial it and post results, I’m quite happy to pay the approx $30 USD for an experiment ? otherwise I will go through the hassle of trying to import it and test myself.
sanding, polishing and gelcoats are not “specialty textures”
the key is woudl this be considered a speciality texture. or a really high tech wax? since its doing the same thing a wax would do…
looking at the pricing its 53 plus shipping for the bottom coat, and 95 for the top coat… that’s a lot of money to spend on a “toy boat”
can be be sprayed on and then sanded/polished so it has a smooth surface?
Oops your right about price, I mistook the spray bottles which are rather expensive @ $35 to include the coatings !? … but coatings are not included :indiffere
This stuff does not have a “speciality texture” (that I can find anyway) it is classified as a coating ? as is wax or gelcoat, paint or what ever, where is the difference ?
Hmmm …If sanding does not give surface a texture that is proposed to be specialised for the sole purpose of improving boundary layer …why do people go to the trouble of doing it then ?
[QUOTE can be be sprayed on and then sanded/polished so it has a smooth surface?[/QUOTE]
Watch the video’s my friend.
sanded/polished would be the same as "high wear " and reduce what it is doing.
I thought the same thing about the spray bottles…
from their website- “Ultimate Waterproofing Industrial Coating” so it a “coating”
as is gel-coat, but gelcoat is fairly instrumental in boat construction and in most cases is specifically allowed…
sanding/polishing, you are not “adding” a specific coating,
the 3m riblets, were a secondary coating(tape) purpose was specifically designed to reduce friction and affect the boundary…
yes we wax/ polish sand ect to remove contaminant, and make it so some contamination don’t adhere but a benefit is the boundary.
I guess in theory, its no different than a paint…
and IMO there is nothing specialized about sanding… except doing it in the proper direction…
I finally got my order after several weeks of waiting. They were swamped as soon as that video hit the net. The base coat is very thick, and I could not get it to spray from a typical hand pump sprayer. I ended up using my big spray gun with lots of pressure. The top coat is thin and able to be sprayed with a hand sprayer. I picked up some xylene, the preferred thinner, and may try thinning the base coat for easier application… maybe put several coats on. My original thoughts were to coat the electronics but since I have already either coated the RX in epoxy or “Aeroplate” oil, I don’t have one to test it on. Since it is a spray on coating, it may not reach into all of the nooks and crannies of the circuit board anyway.
I personally don’t think I would use it on a boat hull, and certainly not on any blades. Perhaps topsides to slightly lighten the load of water droplets? Since it is a paint with thickness, and not a thin coating, like Rain-X, I can’t use it on sails either. I did spray it on an all-cloth baseball cap. It made the cloth feel strange, and a bit stiffer, but very cool to see water shed right off.
I’m willing to do some tests if you guys have something in mind.
Hew
Hi Hew, very interesting that it appears to work …can I ask your reasons why you would not think about using it on hull & blades ?
Cheers Alan
Careful of using xylene on any styrene products (hulls, keels, rudders) and any of the “… lenes” based products can/will melt styrene if is happens to find access. All the trouble to go faster will be a waste if you ruin your rudder, soften your keel, or warp your hull. It doesn’t take much (of a missed paint job) to allow any of the product access to “attack” your boat.
My understanding about how foils work in water (or air) is that the water needs to stick to them for the blades to be able to direct the flow and produce lift. If you intentionally try to break that laminar flow, you reduce lift and create more drag.
I don’t really have a concrete reason for not using it on hulls!
Fooling around, I sprayed some on a straw hat too. There are lots of holes between the straw weave, of different sizes, but the stuff beaded up the water enough so that most did not drip through. It took a bit of pressure, either a build up of a big puddle or pouring the water on from a distance of a foot or so, to force the water through the small openings. Interesting!
Hi Guy’s,
Be very careful using this stuff. I’m sure that the Nano technology being used would allow this stuff to be ingested by swallowing or traveling through the skin very easily.
I would have thought it’s not worth the cost and effort when a waxed finish would/should/might achieve the same result.
TF
Hew, I’m no expert and little knowledge can be dangerous but my understanding is that this product improves the flow of liquids over surfaces or in other words makes the flow smoother rather than rougher that creates turbulent conditions.
I’m assuming this coating relies on creating a barrier of oxygen/air to form a boundary layer on the surface of the material it is coating.
Hence my thinking is that it increases laminar flow rather than break it or have I misunderstood something ?
Cheers Alan
I don’t see it “improving the flow of liquids over surfaces”. Isn’t it repelling the water from the surface? Causing the water to bead up and break away from the surface as soon as possible?
So since it repels water. if you applieds this to your entire hull and foils. would it repel the water enough to
A. make it sit higher in the water, resulting in less surface area, or B. since it repels water it would sink since the water can’t “grab” the hull and support it 
now if they just start lining ketchup bottles with this stuff we’d be getting somewhere…