hey i just built a new rig for my vitoria using the original boom and lower section and a flexable graphite top section, needless to say its nice and will work beutifully but i need to figure out a way to make a new gooseneck and vang system how can i make a good one from scratch. cost effectiveness is key. thanks i really appreciate any help
i love tinkering with these boats it takes up time i’m sure my girfreind is going to hate it soon
Express 27 … I love that boat!
i sailed on expresses for about 4 years they are alot of fun i’ve skippered it quite often now the guy sold it and bought a j-29 and he got me a carbon fibre spinaker pole[^]i run foredeck on his boats. o yeah and any ideas on the gooseneck?
i love tinkering with these boats it takes up time i’m sure my girfreind is going to hate it soon
Hey Express,
This is one item where I think you are best to just suck it up and buy the item rather than build one for yourself. This vang will work:
It is $26 at Great Basin. you can trim the body to a smaller size (the body is aluminum and the hole for the screws run all the way through). You can trim the vang rod to whatever length you need as well…
If you are not willing to pay $26 for this vang, you could try one of the methods shown in the US1M construction tips manual (page 44):
http://www.amya.org/us1mconst.pdf
I have a feeling that if you scratch build, you are probalby still going to spend $10 on supplies and when you are done, it will probably not work as well as the SailsEtc goosneck nor will it have the nice low friction and thumbscrew adjustment…
The choice is yours, but for me, the vang is very critical for good performance and this is not an area where you want to skimp by with a poor performing design…
Will Gorgen
Here’s the gooseneck on Yankee III. .030 aluminum. Wrap a 1" x (say) 6" strip in a U around a 1/8 rod. Clamp in vise with open end down, just under the midpoint of the rod. Press down on the top and squeeze the vise jaws, letting them slip down the side and forming the strip around the rod. Drill and bolt #2. Bend the “ears” back, then around a rod the same diameter as the mast using the same technique. Make cutouts for looks.
Put a right angle in a piece of 1/8" aluminum rod. Slide a thick nylon washer up to the “L” Cut to length and bash a flat on either end. Drill 1/16 for boom and vang pins. Assemble and bolt onto mast.
The vang is made from R/C airplane parts and a ball-bearing fishing swivel.
Cheers,
Earl
Download Attachment: [ crop0372.jpg](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/Earl Boebert/200422610345_crop0372.jpg)
8.53KB
For a Vic gooseneck, and any other Vic question or help, check out the Victoria Resource Center (http://www.victoriarc.org/).
The SailTech gooseneck is too big for the Vic. but GBMY has a Vic. kit (http://gbmy.com/vic.html).
In any case I would check out the Resource center first, thats whay i did with my Vic.
Hope This helps…
Gio
A litle advice on what not to do. If you are fabricating your own do not be tempted to use the little model airplane nylon ball joints. They look ideal but I found then too stiff in light air.
Thanks
Don
Vancouver Island
yeah like i’m hoping to have the rig ready for the spring and i’m making my own sails i just don’t really understand how the boom can have full movement without being a ball joint, and how the vang works as well. it all kinda of confuses me and i want to have a grasp on it all before i try to build my own multi hull this summer ntm i want to get my vic on the water again. but is this all stuff i can buy at my hardware store or at specialty stores on the web?
i love tinkering with these boats it takes up time i’m sure my girfreind is going to hate it soon
Don, I was suggesting trimming down the standard SailsEtc gooseneck to an appropriate size, but the GBMY victoria gooseneck looks ideal. And $8? Come on express, you can’t beat that!!! (OK, so they are out of stock right now… but I bet they will have more soon)
Will Gorgen
<blockquote id=“quote”><font size=“1” face=“Verdana, Arial, Helvetica” id=“quote”>quote:<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”> but the GBMY victoria gooseneck looks ideal. And $8? Come on express, you can’t beat that!!! (OK, so they are out of stock right now… but I bet they will have more soon)
Will Gorgen
<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”></font id=“quote”>
Will
Those are the kind of ball joints I was refering to. They seem to work nice in all directions but I found them a bit stiff.
Express
Two joints- one with a vertical axis and one with a horizontal axis. I use 5/16 x 1/8 ball bearings for the vertical but I think know that it is overkill.I think if you just drill a hole and make sure the pin is loose(but not too loose) you’ll do fine. I’ll try and attach a picture. It said it worked- we’ll see.
Download Attachment: 
63.72?KB
Thanks
Don
Vancouver Island
EDIT
That dosen’t show it very well but there is a pin(joint) right in front of where everything joins the carbon part of the boom. I have a milling machine and can make all the pretty parts but a bent piece of sheet aluminum would work just as well.
yeah if gbmy gets more in stock than i’m hittin that up. i would make one myself but i don’t know where to get these parts at i have a feelin not at my local hardware store
i love tinkering with these boats it takes up time i’m sure my girfreind is going to hate it soon
Don,
I doubt you will see any up and down movement in a well tuned rig. The vang is going to remain tight so there will be no change in the boom height. Thus the stiffness of the brass bushing inside the plastic fitting is not an issue. You only have to worry about the rotation of the brass bushing around the brass rod. Should be plenty low friction there…
I use the Meterboat sized gooseneck on my boat and there is no allowance for up and down movement. Any small movement for various adjustments in the vang are taken up by misalignment of the rotation axis to the hole in the plate that attches to the boom. They use some teflon washers to help ease the rotation friction…
Will Gorgen
Express27
I found a site for you , I may try to do one semiular for my Victoria the pattern is for a EC12 but may work
www.theriver.com/public/tmyc/mastfig1.gif
www.theriver.com/public/tmyc/mastfig2.gif
Also check out the following site as they are doing a step by step construction of the Victoria.
http://www.legacyfamilytree.ca/sail/
Jeff
Medicince Hat Alberta
For cost, weight, and ease of construction and use - I have found it hard to beat two simple screw-eyes inter-connected. Also low friction.
One goes into the mast, the other into the end of the boom.
A light line (spectra, or dacron) with a bowsie also seems to work fine as a vang.
If you decide to keep the mast eye open to allow on/off of the boom during transport or storage, keep the opening just big enough that you have to raise the boom almost vertically to remove from the eye. The crooked white wire coming up is a thru-deck for my antenna wire. Simply a piece of household electrical wire covering (#14 I believe). Remove the copper wire. Cut to length. Epoxy into/through the deck. Run antenna wire up through it and attach top of antenna to side of mast. Keep insulation wire high enough to prevent water from running down and into the hull.
Download Attachment: [ boom.jpg](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/Dick Lemke/200422616375_boom.jpg)
9.58KB
<blockquote id=“quote”><font size=“1” face=“Verdana, Arial, Helvetica” id=“quote”>quote:<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”>Originally posted by wgorgen
Don,
The vang is going to remain tight so there will be no change in the boom height. Thus the stiffness of the brass bushing inside the plastic fitting is not an issue.<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”></font id=“quote”>
Agreed
<blockquote id=“quote”><font size=“1” face=“Verdana, Arial, Helvetica” id=“quote”>quote:<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”>You only have to worry about the rotation of the brass bushing around the brass rod. Should be plenty low friction there…<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”></font id=“quote”>
If this is the fitting I think it is the little black things at the top and bottom of the vang are Allen screws that hold the brass part solid. Both axes(sp) are on the same ball. the rotation has the same friction as the up and down.
Thanks
Don
Vancouver Island
express
that is a great idea. and a nice website. just finished looking into it. . i like the gooseneck idea. i may even try it on my vic.
cougar
Don,
I suspect that the allen screws are loose such that the brass busing is not moving relative to the black plastic body… So the frction is only the friction of the metal o metal between the brass insert and the allen screw…
The friction between the plastic body and the brass insert would be very high…
Will Gorgen
i think i may just do that idea with the two screw eyes, i jus wanna get my vic on the water running smoothly right now after that i dun care cause i’m starting a new boat thats gunna take some serious effort[^] i would use the idea from the ec12 but i don’t know where to get those materials from. the next boat is gunna be crazy thoug, is about 35 inches long and has a hard chine to a flat bottom kinda like a skiff it should be a planing machine in about 10 knots of breeze on a reach in resonably flat water. i just need to get the fibre glass and epoxy this spring when the vic is done.
i love tinkering with these boats it takes up time i’m sure my girfreind is going to hate it soon
so what’s wrong with the unit that came with the kit? That actualy works very well.