The rules are not set in stone…feel free to rewrite them and post for comment.
The idea was to go sailing or as little$ as possible…hence the standard 2 channel outfit.Allowing the micro servo only means more expense for the first timer.
I don’t disagree with allowing bowsprits ,overhanging rudders etc…Just don’t be fooled into thinking it will allow creativity.If the class ever has “proper” racing then the parameters of the boats will gradually become uniform as we find out what “works”
You can see evidence of this in every racing class in the world.
Cheers
Brett
ok here goes…trying to attach my Footy plans.
Should be bmp and DWG files and a couple of text docs in there.
cheers
Brett
Download Attachment: bobaboutit.zip
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Hi Brett
I have been reading trough the rules you posted, and compared them with the one on the footy home page; overall I think it?s a good start (and probably a good end too).
I had some reservation at the beginning for the amount of ?prohibited? items, especially the part about the bowsprits?? but after thinking about it probably that?s the way to go, keep it simple!
The battery regulation still leaves me a little perplex, we are limiting ourselves with alkaline batteries only, could ?3 Only 4 AA size cells may be used for battery power.?
be changed to ?3. A maximum of 6V of battery power may be used.??
I agree about changing and shifting ballast during races and I like the rig part particularly.
I just have one question, why did you decrease the keel length by 1 inch? Any particular reason?
Anyway, I will start design my boat using those rules soon and will see what I will end up with ?. By the way thanks for posting your plan, it?s a good start.
Gio
Hi Gio,
My intention is that everyone will use the 4 cell battery holder you get with the standard radio.
Hence NO added expense needed.
Brett
Hi
Just thought I’d join in at this stage to say that I have now built 14 “footies” for the residents of the retirement village in which I now live . The idea was to provide a sport for those in our community who are not too mobile and can’t play other sports. I have been amazed at the response and we now have regular racing every thursday afternoon and all participants are having a ball. Yes the little buggers are hard to sail but most are now getting used to not taking their eyes of their boats for a second and we are having great close racing. WE all go down in the village bus to a spot on Lake Macquarie just above Sydney. It has become so popular that I have now 7 more in various stages of construction. AS soon as I get a decent photo I’ll see if I can post it here.
Regards all. Keep up the good work Brett.
HO, ho!!! A gaff rig, while fitting into the rules, would carry more sail, eh? Overhanging rudders…hmmm…I didn’t even think about it until Earl and John brought it up… Huh. A New England-style catboat would take maximum advantage of the rules, and with a bulb-keel, would stand up pretty good, too!
Catboats have a beam roughly half of their length. They usually have a hugemongous rudder to counteract weatherhelm. Plumb stem, too, which would maximize waterline length. Cabins, which give you more ‘underdeck’ room for electronics access… - count me in!
Spirit of the class, though - keep it from causing protests.
On the ‘standard’ Footy, if there is such a thing, and using the servo-mounted mast above, how’s about a swing-rig?
There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. Kenneth Graeme, Wind in the Willows.
Theres no beam limit is there? hmmmmm, I’m thinking a flat wide thing, I wonder… you could effectively build a cat, if you could get it to heel so most of it is out of the water, like flying a hull, be a dog in light winds but hey, worth a try…
Luff 'em & leave 'em.
Some guys I know in the UK are racing Footies,They have these comments to make on the proposed class rules.
As promised comments on your proposals based on some actual experience with a Footy:-
General Comment.
This is not a ?beginners? concept. The small size puts a premium on building, rigging, sail-making and trimming skills. The boats require careful sailing, especially in light weather conditions. They are great fun and cheap to develop, but they are not really a beginners concept.
A number of yachters have said to me:
? the challenge is to build the fastest boat they can within a 12 inch overall hull length.
? expense is not an issue.
? things that can be bought are not a problem ? things that have to be made can be.
Hull.
Why prohibit bowsprits? Some designs in effect have one through the way the rig is configured.
Keel.
Why limit the keel length?
Rudders.
Why prohibit overhanging rudders?
Sails/Rig.
Why limit the rig height or boom lengths? In very light airs with such a small boat as this a higher mast/aspect ratio rig can make all the difference between sailing or not sailing. A single rig per race day could be adopted. Sharp choice to be made by the skipper!
Radio Control.
Why only standard servos? Smaller servos are readily available and inexpensive.
Why use only standard AA cells? Smaller cells are readily available and inexpensive. They are sold made up into packs in all good model shops.
What about miniature receivers which are readily available?
The trade off here is weight versus reliability/time on the water in all conditions ? a decision/risk for the designer.
It is too early to be prescriptive ? let the class develop. A consensus will emerge after time and then tidying up of some of these things can take place if there is a clear wish for it.
I would still like to here comments from people who are actually building and sailing Footies.There have been well over 200 built in the last couple of years that I know of directly…I am sure many more have been built s well tht I don’t know of.These small boats are most likely the fastest growing class on the planet at this time.The potential is enormous if we can get it organised.
cheers
Brett
I just started toying with Brett’s plans last night. Next thing you know, I had something resembling a hull. I have to admit its the most fun I’ve had “boatbuilding” in a long time.
The only item I question in the new rules, is the radio control equiptment rules. Like many others, I have a few spare micro servos around, and a few various size battery packs too.
FYI- I just ordered a “Pip-Sqeak” off Brett’s website.
Regards, John W.
Ok, I’m building one of these cute lil Footy’s. One problem though is where do I come up with the ballast for this little boat. Do I carve it from a fishing weight? Thanks…
Travis
OK, USA
Don’t forget to have fun!!!
You can get some lead buckshot, mix it with epoxy, and pour it into a mold of some sort. I don’t know if a fishweight will be heavy enough.
<blockquote id=“quote”><font size=“1” face=“Verdana, Arial, Helvetica” id=“quote”>quote:<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”>Originally posted by tdonily
where do I come up with the ballast for this little boat. <hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”></font id=“quote”>
Travis,
if you plan to “pour” into a formed mold, you can use car wwheel weights. Go to your closest tire dealer (Goodyear, etc.) and ask for a coffee can of the weights. Explain what for and they probably will give you a bunch for free.
Heating with propane tourch while holding the wheel “clip” will allow you to melt the alloy into a metal can - or a molding “spoon”. If you want to get a good cast iron “Spoon” (ladle) visit a fishing shop or gun shop and ask if they carry them. I made my own by taking a chunk of square steel tubing, adding a bottom and a handle. Butane torch will be enought to melt it after a little bit of time. For faster melt, you will need to use an acetylene torch. DON’T use you wife’s stove or bring it in the house. She’ll kill you ! If pouring - MAKE SURE YOUR MOLD IS DRY !!! Mossiture turns to steam and steams “blows” the molten lead back at you. Best method is described by Jon … #9 birdshot mixed with resin (polyester or epoxy).
Why the AA batteries only? why not allow NiCd’s?
This is pretty cool! Tho I’d have to admit that I would rather have an unlimited class boat that can fit in a 12x5x27 box. Anything goes as long as it is wind powered and fits in the box. Simply because the physics for such a small boat precludes standard sailboat design.
Brett, one change I’d recommend to your plans is to insert a scale so that we can verify the scale of the plans when printing or downloading into a graphics/CAD program.
Otherwise, pretty cool!
<blockquote id=“quote”><font size=“1” face=“Verdana, Arial, Helvetica” id=“quote”>quote:<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”>Originally posted by Dick Lemke
<blockquote id=“quote”><font size=“1” face=“Verdana, Arial, Helvetica” id=“quote”>quote:<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”>Originally posted by tdonily
where do I come up with the ballast for this little boat. <hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”></font id=“quote”>
Travis,
if you plan to “pour” into a formed mold, you can use car wwheel weights. Go to your closest tire dealer (Goodyear, etc.) and ask for a coffee can of the weights. Explain what for and they probably will give you a bunch for free.
Heating with propane tourch while holding the wheel “clip” will allow you to melt the alloy into a metal can - or a molding “spoon”. If you want to get a good cast iron “Spoon” (ladle) visit a fishing shop or gun shop and ask if they carry them. I made my own by taking a chunk of square steel tubing, adding a bottom and a handle. Butane torch will be enought to melt it after a little bit of time. For faster melt, you will need to use an acetylene torch. DON’T use you wife’s stove or bring it in the house. She’ll kill you ! If pouring - MAKE SURE YOUR MOLD IS DRY !!! Mossiture turns to steam and steams “blows” the molten lead back at you. Best method is described by Jon … #9 birdshot mixed with resin (polyester or epoxy).
<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”></font id=“quote”>
Hi Folks,
I have been very slow to build my Foot’s but I am excited about this boat. I added a couple of pictures one are of a couple of hulls that I got from Bret, the others are of my ballast making project. I used the carbon from a candle for a release agent.
Rick
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fantastic class looks like it’s starting to get off the ground too! I’ve designed one in Maxsurf, shaped it and just finished laying up my first hull (2 layers carbon twill).
Is the “target” weight around 500grm and if so are people finding it easy to achive?? Would love to see some photo’s and/or talk about the layout people are using as in sheeting systems, servo position keel fixtures(or bonding) I’m still undecided on my layout was thinking of glassing a servo tray to support keel, mast, servo’s and rf gear. very fun project i’m loving it!
I have a Footy on order as well. I also have enough material/radios around to build a couple more footies as well. I’m thinking that I’ll build one to fit the rules and a outlaw footy multihull with ultra light gear. I know I’m going call my outlaw footy “Water Strider”.[8D][:D]
<blockquote id=“quote”><font size=“1” face=“Verdana, Arial, Helvetica” id=“quote”>quote:<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”>Originally posted by Rcher
I’ll build a outlaw footy multihull with ultra light gear. I know I’m going call my outlaw footy “Water Strider”.[8D][:D]
<hr height=“1” noshade id=“quote”></blockquote id=“quote”></font id=“quote”>
Don’t forget to register it as an F-48 !!! [:D]
I could use some advice.
I commited my new ballast to a aluminum keel as shown in the attached picture. The weight of the ballast and keel are about 200 grams. I was thinking I would attach it to the hull by building a small keel box made of 1/4"x1/4" basswood inside the hull. The keel box would be epoxied and fiber glassed in place. I don’t intend to remove the keel after installation. Do you think the 1/4"x1/4" basswood will be enough to hold it?
Download Attachment: [ Keel Ballast s.JPG](http://www.rcsailing.net/forum1/data/Rmoynahan/200462264150_Keel Ballast s.JPG)
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Rick,
That box will be fine if you integrate it into the mast step. Are you running a shroudless rig? If so then all the heeling forces will come into the mast base and straight into the keel. That is exactly what you want. Think of the hull as just being along for the ride at that point…
If you are running with sidestays, then i would try to add some gusset ribs between the sides of the keel box and the hull. Even better would be a bulkhead that integrates the keel bok, mast step and chainplates into a single rigid structure (much like what Dennis build for your Fairwind).
Good luck!
- Will
Will Gorgen