I would like to publish a free plan for a Footy that I have developed recently.
The design is called “Flatfoot” for reasons which will become obvious as you read on.
It is generated from one flat sheet of building material of your choice.
The very best, would be 1mm ply, but depron foam sheet or Balsa or waterproof cardbord or anything you can concieve that can be cut bent and glued would be suitable.
It is NOT a proven or tested design. It has not been analyzed or checked for displacment, prismatic coefficent, meta center, hyrogliphics or any other fancy boffin talk words.
It is FREE, suck it and see, then report here.
The photos show the plan and the hull I made today in about two hours (not counting the glue dry time) from a foam meat tray.
Here is a link to a Web album where you can see more photo`s.
Thank you for publishing this
A little while ago I came across the Yahoo group “Origami boats” detailing a method of quickly building full-scale “folded” metal yacht hulls, but I lost interest as soon as I realised any detail design information was being kept secret and got the impression that designs/plans were to be created for a fee.
QUESTION:
The plan is perfectly comprehensible - but do you have any guidance on creating the curve for the underside of the bow? Did you draw it freehand, or is it an arc - and if so, where should the circle’s centre be and what is its radius?
Actually, scratch that lol bloody big circle
Ian San. That not honorable origami -only rigami. To be honorable with ‘o’ at front require no cutting, slitting of paper. This debased style of gaijin and have no place in life of bushido.
For man less concerned with traditional consideration, this very good yacht!
[INDENT]I do bushido sailing when the wind stops; “I don’t care, how about a pint?”
Ian-
I gave your flatfoot a go. I found a large piece of card. It looks interesting so far; Plenty of beam & freeboard, and so room for the radio gear. All I did so far was to put a thwart where the aft part splits, and a spacer across the gunnel to put the sides at vertical. I think I will see if I can cut the bow to be a little less vertical tho. Would it hurt to cut the curvy part of the forward keel a little more ( deeper & longer) than in your drawing?
Tomohawk, you mean Altzheimer-Bush. Please, not that stuff: it majes your brain curdle. You might even becomes Presudent of of United States (of America, or Brasil … or Mexico or …)
Tomo, as I said previously the whole thing is unproven so anything you would like to do could be an improvment.
Mocking up in cardboard is quick, easy and inexpensive, so try your mods and let us know how they workout.
Mine is pretty much complete as I thought I should “put my money where my mouth is” as it were.
Pictures at 11.
Tomo, try to keep the hull as wide as possible to give the maximum buoyency and so support a resonable bulb weight, say 220 grams.
That would be my best advise. Best of luck mate.:zbeer:
I’ll do all that, mate. I just have this thing for hulls & bows that will try to plane over the waves instead of cutting through them. I do like the extra displacement up front tho, so I’ll probably just take a little off the bottom.
BTW- the templates for the footy hulls I started last summer were made from Donut boxes, and I didn’t see any in the dumpster, so I had to buy a few dozen to get the boxes! Food for thought? LOL
Here’s a couple of photos of how it looks so far, with the two braces in the back.
Tomo, here is a photo of my transom shape (taken from inside the hull with the hinge for the rudder showing)
As you may observe the bottom of my hull is much flatter than yours at present.
Please give some thought to flattening the aft sections a little more to give that extra buoyency we spoke of earlier.
I have a hull going together nicely. I’m keeping notes and have copies of all the templates I’m using. I used some wooden coffee stirrers as temporary braces to give it shape. I have some planks on the workbench waiting for the handplane, and after I cut out a few keel fins. I plan on guing the fin in permanently. then the radio board, then all else.
Since I used csard for the hull, I think I need to seal the inside. Even if I use fibreglass on the outside (I’ll be using 3 or 4 ox. cloth for fun) the bare card won’t last long on the inside, so I’ll seal it with polyurethane clear. I plan on using cleats to anchor the radio board, and as sheer strips to glue the deck, and thin ply as a base for the rudder should work well there.
I see in the pictures that the deck will be curved. Is there any special reason for that?
I’m abut ready to give my paper hull a skin of glass. Any last tips? In the pics, you’ll see some wood sticks. Those are coffee stirrers, thin and normal, the sheer strips are the thinner sticks, overlapped. I think I will not try to make this boat too beautiful, but instead try to make it go with only the scrap stuff I have laying around.
I’m out of standard servos and receivers, so I will probably buy a few of those. Most everything else I have. $1 for 5 sheets of card, of which I used 1 for this boat, some free coffee stirrers (although the coffee is $7 a Litre!) and some tape and glue…
Ignore that AAA battery case! It’s there for repairs. :devil3:
Tomo, IMHO it is still not wide enough in the rear.:graduate:
If you could make both your top braces about 30mm wider each then you would start to have some outward slope to the sides which would give you some extra buoyency as she heels.
Flatten out that bottom at the transom and try to keep the whole thing symetricial.
Well done mate, I am keen to know how she comes out for you.
I will try to post some more photo`s of my version.
Best wishes from NZL.:zbeer:
[ol]
[*]There should be a day or two next week when I should be able to drape a layer of glass & resin on it. That would be great progress. Maybe I have some meat trays to use for decking, but I think I will go with balsa for the transom.[/ol]I hope someone else is trying this too…
I can drape wetted fibreglass onto the outside of the hull, but I can’t think of a suitable way to seal the inside. the hull is made of card, so if it ever gets any moisture inside, the braces for the radio gear will fall off.
Could you remove the card entirely once the glass sets up? If it softens up in water so easily, just pull it out and brace against the glass. Reminds me of the acetone method to remove foam forms from their finished hulls.
