Very much as usual, fantastic post, Niel. This new found Footy community( to me) is so enhanced by people like Niel, Dick L and many others that will take ridiculously uneducated posts (like mine), respond positively while educating at the same time. Thanks again, Niel. I learn something every time I read one of your posts.
Yes, many thanks, all. The water is all very hard around here still so we’ll have to wait for the spring thaw to see any on the water shots, Niel.
So I have to decide what to do. I could start over and make a lighter hull or I could just forge on with the hull I have. If I start over I could do a better job of lining off the hull. I didn’t quite get it right. That might be the deciding factor. I looked at some lumber at the craft store today. Less expensive than the hobby store. They had 1/16" basswood and balsa and 1/64" baltic birch plywood. Talk about light!
Steven
Go with the 1/64 plywood. It is very easy to work with, and can be cut with a scissor without splitting.
Steven,
Unfortunayely, same water conditions here in Virginia. But, no matter if you choose to continue or start anew, I’ll enjoy watching! I love seeing someone being creative! A human doing is always better than a human being.
Wilbur
The kinds of bends that you are employing in constructing your hull are going to require pre-bending the panels if you go with Balsa. (Pre-bending Balsa with Formula 409 is covered in an article in an old AMYA quarterly, written by Bill Hagerup) Generally 1/16th Balsa is considered heavy in Footydom and is harder to bend than 1/32nd. I would try the 1/64th ply first, but you may not be able to get it to take the severe bends in the bow and the stern.
With 1/32nd Balsa you may have some trouble as well as Balsa has this annoying tendency to split or crease if it doesn’t want to play ball. The only way to know is to give it a try. Footy boat building is experimental by nature.
I would look for supplies online to compare prices. Bear in mind that shipping costs factor in but you still might save something over the local retail price. I found my 1/64th ply at Nana’s Dollhouse Supply, so you never know where deals can be sourced at.
Oh, and Wilbur, I’ve written a whole lot of posts over the years and I’m glad that you’ve found somethings useful among them.
As a full size boatbuilder I have plenty of experience bending wood. 
Not to mention toboggans.
The Razor hulls I made were of 1/8" white cedar:
Steven
Steven,
Bear in mind that all “AA” batteries are not created equally. For instance, Energizer Lithium AA’s weigh in at a lot less (about 14g per cell) than the average Zinc-Carbon types, and a 600mah Ni-cad is about 21g., which is slightly lighter than Z-C. Also, since the battery rule was eliminated by popular vote of class members a couple of years ago, there is no longer a restriction to require using “AA” batterries. For most Footys, the smaller sized “AAA” batteries will work just as well (though for a slightly shorter time), and are even lighter than “AA” cells of the same chemistry. Also, if you use the Energizer Lithiums they have a slightly higher cell voltage than usual, and as such, some skippers are using only 3 cells instead of 4. The only drawbacks to the Lithiums is they are pricey at about $10 per pack of 4 (they’re not rechargeable), and when they go dead, they tend to do it rather suddenly (which could catch you out in the middle of the pond if you’re not careful).
I think that your lapstrake Footy that started this thread is still a very worthwhile project, and if you are reasonably careful to keep the weight of added components within acceptable limits, you will be happy with her. For future projects, you may want to consider using spruce, which according to the Gougeon brother’s tests, has the best ratio of strength to weight while still remaining limber. Balsa and Bass (and poplar, too, I think) can tend to be a bit on the brittle side when bending planks. Also, you can probably go down to thinner thicknesses (such as 1/16" or 1/32") without making the boat too fragile to handle. You could also rip some 1/32" or even 1/64" plywood into strips to do your lapstrake hulls which could be even lighter, but I think with planks that thin, you might lose some of the aesthetics that give your present boat it’s character.
Again, I say, please don’t give up on your present boat, it’s still a worthwhile project.
Regards, Bill
Hi Steven -
while FOOTY’s are not my ideal building project or interest, I also enjoy building and found that like you, I enjoy the “pretty” woods. My own RG-65 currently under construction (no recent photos here at work) I elected to have a “pretty” boat first. I chose Mahogany Sappelle for the hull panels and Bird’s Eye maple for the deck. After purchasing my veneer, I found it to measure roughly 1/20th. of an inch in thickness. Granted that my RG at 25-1/2 inches in length is twice the size of your FOOTY, the difference in weight many be more critical for you. Even the RG’s are being built using 1/64 balsa sheets, so if the slight difference in weight isn’t a major hinderance, you may want to consider the veneers. (Stay away from the burls, as they are too porous).
I do like your build. Good luck moving forward.
Dick
I have been very busy during these months, and I have not been able to actively enjoy footy discussions anymore.
Anyway, I would like to take advantage of this thread about Eun Na Mara, to disclose that - following my Cat Boat “Brando” my next semiscale footy will be a Yawl too.
This time the model will be designed - from the beginning - taking in account future sales of plans and kit box from Wooden Boat magazine.
As soon as possible , I will start a new thread, showing design steps, as well building and testing of prototype.
Stay tuned
Flavio
Great news, Flavio.
Steven