a) instead of two fairleads, you can use only one put in between and then change the attachment point to the boom. Do not forget to re-adjust similarly the attachment to the jib boom.
b) 400mm is the lenght of the boom and 439mm is the base of the jib
c) only jpeg as here, you need only dimensions after all to be reported upon a balsa sheet
…
Note: The width dimensions of the fin can be reduced to 100mm at the top and 70mm at the bottom, doing this the drag will reduce during running being reduced the appendages wet surface to about 6%, but with some reduction capability during close haul since the boat drift will increase. The choice remains with you.
Claudio, I’m still mixed about wether to have interchangable sails on both hulls or dedicate one sail plan to each hull …
I made the mistake of not looking at difference between boom and sail foots dimensions (loose mind day :scared:) thank you for highlighting this.
We are using your plans as reference for CAD programming, thank you again. The easy part is making the parts & most diffulcult part is programming coordinates for the CNC machine via CAD … modern technologies uh !!
Claudio thanks for DXF file, it will be great help & Mat thanks for servo info.
This evening needed to get my hands dirty again so trimmed the hull and the deck bevel and dry fitted them together to see how it was going to fit and look … whew! Green light the bevel is a goer, fits perfectly including aero triangle of the bevel at base of the shrouds and has right optical dimensions, I’m pleased took the trouble of doing it as it certainly gives the foredeck more rigidity compared to flat 90 degree hull/deck join, which I made as back-ups if it didn’t work out.
Then marked up the deck to check everything was going to be in the right place, centred & square.
Next step is to glue 3 x 5mm balsa strip all around the deck lines, allowing for bevel on the foredeck wooden strip where hull and deck come together as glue joining surface , then will glue in 200 gsm CF cloth for hull supports in rudder, fin box and bow areas up under the wooden deck lines and then can start fitting out the inside of the hull.
Alessandro is making two new boats:Alinghi SUI-100 and Luna Rossa by Claudio Diolaiti (project B); You can see the two hull in wood ready to make the stamp:
The IACC 120 forum password is the letter “p”
Hi Lamafever, the sails are $230-240 NZD including shipping now at I have Kiwi made products in the boat
Hey Mat thats great that you have more new boats in the workshops, reckon this won’t be my last one either.
Little slow this weekend on the build, lot of other activities happening. Started preparing supports gluing 6 x 6 and 3 x 3 mm balsa togther and beveling it 45 degree’s for the foredeck sheer line support and glue them into place.
Had little diffulculty here getting curves to stay in place for gluing, needed to steam the balsa before gluing so they would hold their shape along the top of the hull line.
Next lined the inside of the hull with 200 gsm CF in the fin box area, was little unconventional here as I did not have much time. Leveled the glass work bench which the cradle sits on so the waterline was at 0 level using water levels.
Then set-up keel fin in the fin box (on the bench) and sat water levels on the fin box bridge and dropped bob line down the keel trailing edge and adjusted the bridge until keel fin was sqaure and bridge was level, then transfered all measurements and levels across to the hull.
Finally sealed the fin slot on the outside of the hull, so epoxy would run into the slot sealing the fin box to the hull, then wet the CF into position then dropped in the Fin box and adjusted everthing to the same measurement & levels from the bench & finished by running CF twirl around the base of the fin box, only need to re-cut the keel fin slot again once it has all cured, this way I know it will have maximum strength and be completely waterproof.
Next step is to start fitting out the inner hull with the Jib bridge, servo including RX/battery and rudder trunk and servo.
Today made up Jib bridge using 3 mm aircraft ply, next drilled 2 mm hole one end of two 5 mm dia Carbon rods & epoxied rods to bottom of the hull using 75 gsm woven CF.
The top of the CF rods were then aligned underneath the bridge and fastened with screws through the bridge which was pre-drilled for right position. The screws positions are the same as the alloy slider which will later be used to fasten the Jib slider to the bridge.
The bridge is now 5 mm below the deck line, so I have the option of hiding the slider under the deck to bring the Jib boom closer to the deck as Claudio had done with his specail Jib rake on AC 33 build for better efficency, which means I will need to cut slot in center of foredeck and then seal it to ensure it is waterproof or simply glue another wooden plate on the bridge to have the slider above the deck, will decide on that detail later.
Claudio, with your experiment using below deck Jib rake on your AC 33, do you feel it made a difference ?
Hi Alan
I seen your pictures and I have a remark :
the screews will not support the loads since the carbon tube is very fragile in this respect.
Will be better to glue treaded rods inside the tube for about 3cm long and than fixing the slide with nuts. Further the tubes should be aligned with the forestay in order to avoid side efforts. In this respect you may look at the AC33.
About the lowering the jib surface it will offer better efficiency as is the case for big boats.
How much I have no idea since there is no backgroung from similar boats without this feature.
Ok I have thought about my mistake with the Jib bridge, I had further overlooked the winch block needs to be fixed in the bow also.
A solution without causing any possible hull damage, is to epoxy in a bulk head in the middle of the bridge giving more strength for forestay tension and creating a fixing point for the 10 mm block needed in the bow area. (attached pic is only a mock-up)
Short of taking out the CF hull support & rods already in place & the Jib bridge which is all epoxied to the beveled hull line balsa, I cannot think of better idea ?
Cheers Alan
P.S Mat have send you PM regarding my travel plan to Italy
great Kiwi sail shaping.